Show Us Your Wood Shed
- Thread starter webfish
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Haven't so far but it eats netwrap off my round bales and that's pretty similar stuff.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Only 5' of SS stack on top of the boiler. A chimney fire wouldn't last long nor do any damage to this stuff. There is around 8' of stack inside the stove that I can clean out with a rake and most all the crap builds up in there where I can scrape it off and push it back into the stove. I toss a cup full of some grey powder stuff in the firebox once a month and let the stove burn hot and it all but melts all the juicy stuff off. I don't know what it is but it works very very well getting creosote off all surfaces in the stove.
Solarguy3500
Feeling the Heat
Just finished building my new woodshed out of pallets today.
I work for a solar company and some of the solar panels we get are shipped on super strong pallets. They have 2X4s for the skids and instead of 1X slats going across, they have 2X6s.
Took a while getting the bases level, but once that was done it went together pretty fast. I had brought home enough of those pallets that I had enough to dismantle the ones that were less than perfect and I used the 2X6s from those ones to make a floor running horizontally because the spacing of the 2X6s on the pallets is wide enough that some of my splits could fall through without horizontal flooring.
Once I had the floor down, I stood more pallets upright to make 4 bins, then put another pallet on top of each section for the roof to go on.
I used the 2X4s from the pallets I took apart as cross braces for lateral stability. I also had enough 2X4s and 2X6s from dismantled pallets that I stacked a couple layers on top of the front side on top to give the roof about 10° of pitch toward the back. I still had some of the old metal roofing panels leftover from when I replaced my garage roof a few years ago so I used those old panels for a roof after sealing up the old holes in them.
Here's the finished product:
Only thing I had to buy was some screws.
I work for a solar company and some of the solar panels we get are shipped on super strong pallets. They have 2X4s for the skids and instead of 1X slats going across, they have 2X6s.
Took a while getting the bases level, but once that was done it went together pretty fast. I had brought home enough of those pallets that I had enough to dismantle the ones that were less than perfect and I used the 2X6s from those ones to make a floor running horizontally because the spacing of the 2X6s on the pallets is wide enough that some of my splits could fall through without horizontal flooring.
Once I had the floor down, I stood more pallets upright to make 4 bins, then put another pallet on top of each section for the roof to go on.
I used the 2X4s from the pallets I took apart as cross braces for lateral stability. I also had enough 2X4s and 2X6s from dismantled pallets that I stacked a couple layers on top of the front side on top to give the roof about 10° of pitch toward the back. I still had some of the old metal roofing panels leftover from when I replaced my garage roof a few years ago so I used those old panels for a roof after sealing up the old holes in them.
Here's the finished product:
Only thing I had to buy was some screws.
Yeah the Power equipment company near me has some heavy duty pallets like that. My only suggestion for you would be some slats along the back wall so that you have a backstop for the splits
Solarguy3500
Feeling the Heat
Yeah, I'm planning on putting some lattice on that back side to dress it up a bit. That side is visible from the road and my wife wants me to make it look a little nicer. The lattice will also serve the purpose as a backstop.
This year's stack. For context, a builder owned my home before and this was his rusty work shed that I took everything out of and decided to use it as the wood shed. The shelves were already there, I figured it would be perfect. My only concern is good airflow. It's a sliding door aluminum shed but figured it would serve a better purpose as a wood instead of junk shed. Have a nice motion sensor light in there, rechargeable. Also working on making this the processing area but needs some organization obviously.
You can get solar powered Fans on Amazon (Assuming this shed get sunlight). You would need to cut holes but that would aid airflow
You might want to consider putting something stronger than lattice where the logs would be touching and then Lattice on the outside for aesthetics. Unless you are planning to gently lay the splits along that back wall, that lattice would probably begin to bow and split.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
I was thinking the same. My stacks shrink by more than 6" in height during the time they're drying, mostly due to moisture loss, and inevitably shift and bow as they settle into their new reduced height. If I were stacking against lattice, even if I managed to not break it when stacking, I think it'd become pretty distorted as the wood settles. Not only because of bowing outward against it, but the ends of the splits trying to slide past the lattice, with the load of several thousands of pounds of wood above any given split that might get hung up on the lattice as it settles.
BC_Josh
Member
I just finished roofing this shed a week ago. A day before it snowed. LOL. Would've been awful to have to roof it more recently since it's been raining ever since. The floor is 12' x 4.5'. It holds about 2.5 cords if stuffed up to the rafters with wood. The roof overhang is generous. About 2' in the front and sides and about 14" on the backside. For now I just have some old tarp stapled on to the side walls. Not the best for air flow and I plan to side it later with gaps between siding boards. However, there are gaps in the floors which are made using pallets which should provide air flow and the wood is stacked a bit loose also. I used some metal hardware cloth, dug into the ground and stapled around the bottom perimeter to deter skunks and other critters from denning under the woodshed. It was made using all reclaimed wood except for the plywood sheathing under the asphalt shingles. Also bought some shingles second hand off of a contractor who had some he couldn't use. Total cost around $600 Canuck bucks ($450 US).
By the way, I want to put some angled bracing at the tops of the posts in front. Just haven't gotten around to it yet, but it would make it more sturdy in the front.
By the way, I want to put some angled bracing at the tops of the posts in front. Just haven't gotten around to it yet, but it would make it more sturdy in the front.
Last edited:
cadyfatcat
Member
I have multiple sheds for different purposes.
Wood Drying Sheds (on a dry windswept part of the property on the edge of a field)
Dry Storage Shed (easily accessible from house)
Wood Drying Sheds (on a dry windswept part of the property on the edge of a field)
Dry Storage Shed (easily accessible from house)
Solarguy3500
Feeling the Heat
It's a good point that you and @Garbanzo62 make about the wood settling as it dries. I was planning on not stacking right against the back but leaving a couple inches of space, but there is still the possibility of splits falling back as they dry and shift. The cross braces are attached directly to the back of the pallets so they create another 1.5 inches of space and I was going to attach the lattice to the outside of the cross braces, but I have plenty of extra pallets so I could just take one or two more apart and use the lumber going horizontally to fill in between the cross braces with 2x4s. This would also give me more attachment points for the lattice, while protecting it from shifting wood.
The advantage of doing that is you can almost throw your splits against the back wall and know they are going to stack. It really speeds up filling the shed versus carefully aligning one split on top of another. The second stack butts up against the first. I find that the gaps between my splits are greater which allows for more airflow then when I was tried to stack on only pallets as I had to make sure the stack was stable. Back wall and sides make a big difference.
As I've read this thread, I just keep coming back to how hard I had to work to make my woodshed 😆 These pictures show the progression (including a pic of my wife standing on a typical obstacle). This was 20+ years ago. I was a general construction contractor at the time, and not afraid to tackle a project. I did all of this work by myself, and the excavation was by hand (including the rock work). I live in a beautiful place in southern Indiana...but the soil is chit and the sandstone is everywhere. I'll include a pic of some rock retaining walls I built solely with the material available on my 4 acres. There is also a pic of my first winter's wood shed, I'm sure you all can spot it lol.
Last edited:
BC_Josh
Member
Not afraid of a little hard work, I see.... beautiful woodshed. Still using it today?
Nice Job! I helped di a foundation in Eastern KY, and it was hell on earth. Thats awesome what you did. I remeber breaker bars, sledge hammers, and TIME....lol....once ya start you gotta finish! Oh....and sweeet walls you built, for " free". Now time for a back doctor, lol...
Enzo's Dad
Feeling the Heat
I also work for a solar company .. I did something similar to this years ago and it works.. however on woodsheds 2.0 I took pallets apart and leftover 2x6s and built my own design
Yes I am. Only the seasoned wood resides in it, everything else is stacked on the hill getting sun and wind (since it's basically buried on 3 sides, it doesn't get much air flow).
ajzzara
Member
Similar threads
