More progress. Debating the vertical vs horizontal siding. Was always planning to go horizontal with 1x3’s but now thinking of going with 1x8 vertical rough cut boards with 2” air gaps. Kind of like board & batten without the batten.
Show Us Your Wood Shed
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I'm not much of a carpenter so I tend to overbuild things. Looking at your frame how will that hold up the the pressure of firewood against the sides? I'd want to but some triangulated cross braces in at the least. Also if you get snow load on the roof how will the scabbed on 2x4's hold up all of the weight of the 2x6's and the snow? On your siding horizontal would probably give you more strength in the walls.
Yup this is still in progress. More to come and have built three homes in heavy snow load locations so have plans to address all.
hobbyheater
Minister of Fire
Our woodshed is built into our house will hold 10 cords; a two year supply and is divided into four quarters with two and a half cords in each quarter.
Ctwoodtick
Minister of Fire
Not a shed but a series of racks I made to serve as permanent top covering. Dog Nolan inspected and signed off on the build.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Siding is overrated, at least when it comes to wood sheds. Mine have no sides, why impede sun and airflow with siding?
Jmorg
Burning Hunk
Almost finished stacking next winter’s wood while smoking a brisket…pretty good weekend!
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Depending on height and packing it in, each side is 8x8 roughly so I would say 3-4 face cords each side, possibly more.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
8x8x6 feet would be 3 cords. We don’t use “face cords” when discussing wood volume, it really means nothing with regard to volume, unless we know the third dimension.
Face cord is all anyone sells. Whenever I see a cord for sale, a cord is one “face” of a full cord. That is how it was where I grew up in Canada and that is all I see sold here as a “cord”. I have never see a true cord sold here.
Here's a shed I built this summer. I built it on my driveway and then moved it to the wood area out behind the barn.
Here's a pic of it being moved. It was kind of sketchy as the CG of the shed is out past the end of the forks. There's straps keeping it from falling off them.
And here it is on its foundation, half full. It should hold about 2.3 full cords, which is about what I burn each winter.
The two cinder blocks are an improvised step so I could fill the last row on the one bay to the top.
Just to the left you can see a couple of the 9 IBC totes I have set up for firewood. I move one up to the house with the tractor when its time to burn the wood in it. They take up more room than a shed which is why I built the shed. The wood is a mix of Doug Fir and bay, from a bunch of trees that came down this last winter. Those logs are stacked out of the picture.
Here's a pic of it being moved. It was kind of sketchy as the CG of the shed is out past the end of the forks. There's straps keeping it from falling off them.
And here it is on its foundation, half full. It should hold about 2.3 full cords, which is about what I burn each winter.
The two cinder blocks are an improvised step so I could fill the last row on the one bay to the top.
Just to the left you can see a couple of the 9 IBC totes I have set up for firewood. I move one up to the house with the tractor when its time to burn the wood in it. They take up more room than a shed which is why I built the shed. The wood is a mix of Doug Fir and bay, from a bunch of trees that came down this last winter. Those logs are stacked out of the picture.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Yeah, things vary with locale. Here it's actually illegal to advertise or sell "face cords", as it's not a legitimate measure of volume. All wood must be sold by volume, either cords, fraction of cord (eg. 1/2 cord, 1/4 cord), or cubic feet, cubic meters, whatever. "Face cord" means literally "4 feet by 8 feet x anything you like". It could reasonably be 1/3 cord or 1/2 cord, depending on how long the wood was cut.
If you advertise face cords only I guess a seller could save some wood and money by cutting to 14 or 16 inches instead of 18 or 20 inches.
30WCF
Minister of Fire
Free standing. 30' x 6' roof, 29' x 5' floor, 6' average interior height. Eight bays, 43 1/2" wide. Six cord, on paper.
Started with eighteen 20" black locust square-ended stakes around the perimeter, 12" below ground, 8" above, set in heavy clay, holes drilled with 2" auger, driven down the last inch or so with a sledge. Interior floor supports are short posts resting on an in-ground horizontal beam, also black locust. Floor is clear span across each 43 1/2" bay, so debris can be raked out with a leaf rake, hopefully. Front-to-back floor supports are one-half of a pressure-treated 2x6, side-to-side floor supports are one-half of a pressure-treated 5/4 x 6.
Floor, back wall, and bay dividers are tied together with 6x6 10 gauge re-mesh, with the mesh in tension and the wood in compression. Wire mesh is fastened with beaucoup 7/8" 18 gauge galvanized staples. Floor is 3/4" hemlock slab wood, 2" wide with 1" gaps.
Eighteen 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" black locust posts to hold the roof up. Kinda springy, roof superstructure resonates at about 4 Hz, could use some diagonalization when I get around to it.
Rafters are pressure-treated 2x4s that have been re-sawn into twin sisters, purlins are 1" random hardwood scrap. Planning on adding a rafter tie and prop to each rafter, just for looks.
Back and side horizontal supports are 1"x2" rough-cut black locust, which hold the wire mesh in tension.
Started with eighteen 20" black locust square-ended stakes around the perimeter, 12" below ground, 8" above, set in heavy clay, holes drilled with 2" auger, driven down the last inch or so with a sledge. Interior floor supports are short posts resting on an in-ground horizontal beam, also black locust. Floor is clear span across each 43 1/2" bay, so debris can be raked out with a leaf rake, hopefully. Front-to-back floor supports are one-half of a pressure-treated 2x6, side-to-side floor supports are one-half of a pressure-treated 5/4 x 6.
Floor, back wall, and bay dividers are tied together with 6x6 10 gauge re-mesh, with the mesh in tension and the wood in compression. Wire mesh is fastened with beaucoup 7/8" 18 gauge galvanized staples. Floor is 3/4" hemlock slab wood, 2" wide with 1" gaps.
Eighteen 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" black locust posts to hold the roof up. Kinda springy, roof superstructure resonates at about 4 Hz, could use some diagonalization when I get around to it.
Rafters are pressure-treated 2x4s that have been re-sawn into twin sisters, purlins are 1" random hardwood scrap. Planning on adding a rafter tie and prop to each rafter, just for looks.
Back and side horizontal supports are 1"x2" rough-cut black locust, which hold the wire mesh in tension.
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GerryM
Member
Shed stacked yesterday, holds almost 3 bushcords enough for winter- all beech and maple, aged 2-3 years. Another dry cord from 2 years ago and 2 1/2 from last year out drying. Vicious guard dog protects from thievery lol
Nice design and like the hog panel sections and my just steal that idea. Should get good airflow.
I got a flying camera box and took some pictures with it today!!
So it's not really a wood "shed" but I hope to put at least a roof over it soon.
So it's not really a wood "shed" but I hope to put at least a roof over it soon.
lml999
Minister of Fire
"Anyone" would be breaking the law in Massachusetts. Cords must be priced as full cords, and anyone pricing face cords gets the appropriate poking and prodding.
I recently bought five full cords from a local guy, $200/cord, and they measured almost exactly 128 cubic feet exactly, each. Bless him.
Cooking them now in my summer solar setup!Similar threads
