ChasesAces
Member
4x6x10 pallet bin on landscape timbers. Holds a hair under 2 cords. Just going to tarp it for now.
I don’t think so. When I refllled the deck last spring, the wood I pulled out of the middle of the pile was perfectly dry.If i piled it like yours, the middle would stay soaked and rot.
I guess I would need to see that evidence...I don’t think so. When I refllled the deck last spring, the wood I pulled out of the middle of the pile was perfectly dry.
It’s pretty well established that a thrown pile dries better than a neat multi row pile. Although I pile it neatly once on the deck especially for space reasons. On the deck 2 of the 3 rows have expanded metal grating underneath. Over 3 out of 9 cords are sheltered from precipitation. And the average dwell time on the deck is about a year or a bit more. Before getting moved to an arctic entry that holds a cord and is well ventilated.
In my experience, the main source of rotten wood is people cutting rounds and leaving them unsplit.
What’s people’s opinions regarding thrown wood piles vs neatly stacked?
I do the ground contact layer as pieces of spruce at about 30 degrees angle from vertical to minimize ground contact area as a percentage of total surface area.
Otherwise, I figure thrown piles allow better air circulation.
I would consider that fairly Tight stacks.My humble opinion and my experience:
A thrown pile can dry within one summer, depending on the type if wood. (not hardwood though)
A loosely stacked pile perpendicular to the main wind direction with only one row or space between rows will dry quicker than a thrown pile.
For storage of dry wood a tightly stacked pile is preferred.
In Sweden the normal work flow is: split and through a pile in spring. After summer stack it tightly where it will be stored.
To make a loose drying stack and later a tight storage stack would be considered the best, but unnecessary and too much work.
In Sweden wood is almost always sold as thrown dimensions. Almost never stacked dimensions.
Picture of a loosely stacked drying stack.
View attachment 342071
I agree they might be considered tight between the rows. But if you zoom in an look at each row, how much space there is in between the loggs.I would consider that fairly Tight stacks.
We are mostly Red Oak in a humid climate with decent winds.
For us That means Single stacks with distance between them.
Yup just goes to show how different wood species and different environments make "Seasoning Times" so different.Here also 1 summer/12 calendar months appears to dry wood virtually to its asymptote.
FYI splits of wood both birch and spruce that were alive in healthy trees on October 2 were asymptotically dry by November 9, when brought into my living room to dey as an experiment.
Asymptotically dry means no further weight loss is observed between measurements.
And those splits look pretty/very small compared to what we do here, so that helps you for sure.Here also 1 summer/12 calendar months appears to dry wood virtually to its asymptote.
FYI splits of wood both birch and spruce that were alive in healthy trees on October 2 were asymptotically dry by November 9, when brought into my living room to dey as an experiment.
Asymptotically dry means no further weight loss is observed between measurements.
I like it! simple and effective!Nothin square or plumb about this. But a trapezoid shape seems to work.
If u have those rafters tied together then u should be good. If not those walls will probably be pushed over by the stacks as they settle. The 2x4's in the blocks are prone to rolling the blocks with the 2x4s levering them over with the pressure of the stacks.Nothin square or plumb about this. But a trapezoid shape seems to work.
I used to think that as well. The 2X4's on top of the blocks don't put nearly enough pressure on the blocks to stop them from rolling. What happens is the walls creep further and further slowly over time. The problem is you can't push them back without taking all the wood off them.I think the blocks are pretty stable. No rolling detected. Enough weight downward to counteract the inward push at the base of the 2x4s. Although it is an interesting question: How far out on the wings could you theoretically go before the lateral forces overcome the downward force. I'm sure there is an engineer out there who could supply a formula, but I'm using eyeball math. If it rolls, I'll post the result. Lol.
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