Smoke coming out back of stove

[Whitepinechampion]

Osburn 2300 great fire going wind is blowing hard smoke filling house. Smoke coming out in back of stove. What is going on? Is my stack to short? I have 7 feet to ceiling and 10 feet up from roof. I dO have cathedral ceilings but going by 10 feet from anything I am ok. Need help thinks

 

[BIGDADDY]

Check out wind resistant chimney caps. This may be a solution for your smoke problem. Do a web search and you can read about how wind causes low pressure around chimneys and ruins draft. You don't say how long you have been using this stove but if you have been burning it problem free then perhaps you would benefit from one of these caps. Best of luck to you.

 

[DAKSY]

http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/Wind-Resistant-Chimney-Caps?gclid=CMPg8Nq2jbQCFVCd4Aod5iUAsg

 

[blwncrewchief]

You are having a strong back or reverse draft. The rear of the stove is where the air inlets are. Flue should not be too short as that is the same firebox design as my stove and I am only running 15' with no reverse draft problems ever in over 2 years. You either have a bad wind problem forcing air back down the chimney. Look for a wind resistant chimney cap as stated above if you don't have one. Or your house is getting into a strong negative pressure. This could be from not having an OAK and: exhaust fans such as kitchen exhaust fan, bath fans, clothes dryer, etc. Could also be "stack" effect if the stove is in the basement or lower floor of a multiple story house. Negative pressure in the house can also be caused by wind in certain circumstances. More details may help us point you in a direction.

 

[Whitepinechampion]

I have been burning with the stove for a month now and it has not been windy at all until last night. I do not have a wind cap just a spark arrester cap. It is a two story house with basement and fireplace is on first floor. I do live in the mountains at 7500 feet with lots of trees around my house. So it seems I need a wind cap, lengthen my stack, and get an o2 kit?

 

[DAKSY]

I have been burning with the stove for a month now and it has not been windy at all until last night. I do not have a wind cap just a spark arrester cap. It is a two story house with basement and fireplace is on first floor. I do live in the mountains at 7500 feet with lots of trees around my house. So it seems I need a wind cap, lengthen my stack, and get an o2 kit?

I would try the Vac-u-stack first & see if it helps. The OAK can be added next. I would extend the chimney if the cap & OAK don't alleviate the problem...

 

[begreen]

Not to be contrary, but at 7500ft I think you will need more chimney, with bracing and the wind cap, though I'm not sure if you need an OAK. One way to tell is to open a nearby window a 1/2" while watching the fire. If the fire perks up and burns more briskly then yes, add an OAK. If not, try the first two and see how it goes. This chart is for a different stove (VC Encore). It illustrates the relationship of altitude to chimney height to maintain sufficient draft. Also, is the interior connector single or double-wall? To keep the flue gases as hot as possible I would use double-wall connector in this situation.

 

[Whitepinechampion]

I have single wall to the box going into the ceiling and then triple wall coming out of the box out the roof and out. I don't know about the window open I will check. Thanks for the help

 

[begreen]

I would do everything reasonably possible to increase draft. If the connector is taller than 8' it is losing a lot of heat. That affects draft.

Here's a quote from one of our ex-mods that sold stoves in CO. He knows more about high altitude burning than I ever will.

The stove will have more continuous use and a longer season then a stove sold at lower elevations. As you know, there is only one month that we are guaranteed snow free, August. People that live in colder climates tend to want longer burn times, and houses loose heat faster in the windy conditions and super cold temps that high altitudes bless us with all year. You also need taller chimneys that are well insulated, preferably in the building envelope. You also have to up size them based on fuel sources. lodgepole and ponderosa do not have the same density as spruces and firs, so you cant fit as much wood into a stove like you can at lower elevations that get to use hardwoods.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/stove-at-high-elevation-softwood-questions.40308/#post-509202

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Does this happen all of the time? I see you listed the height of the chimney, but is it higher than the house? Your house may be acting as a better chimney than your chimney.

Matt

 

[begreen]

Good point Matt. A couple interior and exterior pictures showing the connector and the chimney with some indication of the prevailing winds could help here.

 

[Whitepinechampion]

Good point Matt. A couple interior and exterior pictures showing the connector and the chimney with some indication of the prevailing winds could help here.

I will get some pictures up for you. The house is a vaulted ceiling about 22' high. The triple wall exits the roof at the bottom of the vaulted roof at about 14 feet. Using the 10 feet rule I am now over 10 feet level with the roof, but not over the roof ridge.

 

[begreen]

Did you get a chance to try opening a nearby window a little to see if that improves the fire intensity and reduces smoke spill?

 

[Whitepinechampion]

Did you get a chance to try opening a nearby window a little to see if that improves the fire intensity and reduces smoke spill?

No it did not make a difference. when there is a wind gust you can see the fire go out in the stove, smoke start coming out the back, and then fire starts back up. This continues to repeat. I bought 3 more feet of pipe and looking to buy a wind reducer cap.

 

[begreen]

Good plan. Don't forget to brace that pipe.