They are not a bad option if you don't have enough dry wood available. But really you should be buying your wood for next year now at the least if not 2 years ahead. I can typically get away with one year of seasoning but many others cannot. Buying wood in the spring to burn in the fall is asking for problems
Solid fuel replacement for cord wood?
- Thread starter Dmichigan
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I would If i lived in a place I knew i was staying, i've never been in a home for more than 5 years my hole life and this one is going to be less than 3 full years too. Own my house but not the land it sits on...
Ok but if you plan on heating with wood you are going to need dry wood. That means you need to buy ahead and dry it yourself, find a supplier of actual dry wood, or rely on the bricks.
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
I burned only about 200# of them one winter. At that price seems like a good deal. I’d be tempted just to have something really dry come February or March.
my thoughts were that burned hotter and longer than my hurricane wood (tulip poplar and magnolia)and I rationed them knowing exactly how much each load was costing me.
3 seems like to much and 1 really not enough. If I had the storage space and the cash on hand I’d do 3. If not then 2 and be a bit stingy during the warmer spells. They are easier to move than cord wood I think.
Evan
my thoughts were that burned hotter and longer than my hurricane wood (tulip poplar and magnolia)and I rationed them knowing exactly how much each load was costing me.
3 seems like to much and 1 really not enough. If I had the storage space and the cash on hand I’d do 3. If not then 2 and be a bit stingy during the warmer spells. They are easier to move than cord wood I think.
Evan
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
In a noncat, the bricks can run away on you so only load a few until you can assess your stove’s reaction.
The BK thermostat controls the air fully so yes, you can load it to the gills and get a very long burn.
This thread feels anti brick but the bricks fill a need where the operator can’t or doesn’t want to use firewood but has a woodstove. Smaller storage footprint, cleaner, seasoned, convenient, no pitch, no slivers, supposedly cleaner burning.
If not for the additional cost, many of us would burn them exclusively.
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
I don't know about cleaner in the house. The bricks shed when loading even if they are 100% dry. I agree about cleaner burning and the convenience is second only to pellets for solid burning fuels. From what I have read on this forum the dust from pellets isn't great either. That being said the combustion contaminants from oil, nat gas, and propane are also quite nasty and I clearly prefer the debris from solid wood fuels over any other type.
I didn't mean to come off as anti brick. For me they typically don't make sense. But when I was hurting for dry wood I bought them. If I had limited storage space and was buying wood anyway I am sure they would be much more appealing.
Woodsplitter67
Minister of Fire
jetsam
Minister of Fire
BKVP
Minister of Fire
It was North Idaho Energy Logs (NIELS). They burned great. EPA had interest in the idea of manufactured fuels. AK paid for a study comparing cordwood emissions to blended cordwood/manufactured fuels and only manufactured fuels. From an emissions standpoint, the blended had the best result.
Keep in mind the test methods require 18-24% MC test fuel. Stoves are "tuned" to burn fuel within that range.
Burning straight manufactured fuel created a "rich" air fuel ratio.
I did burn NIELS for 3 years straight. They performed flawlessly so long as I loaded no more than 2-3 logs at a time.
But looking through the glass and seeing 2-3 logs in a 4.3 cu ft firebox just looked funny.
Occasionally I'll burn them, but blended with some tamarack or Douglas Fir.
If you burn them in a catalytic equipped stove, check out the raw material fuel source. I've learned through spectrum analysis they are not all equal. Some had higher levels of sodium other had melamine or metals.
Those high in sodium were from a coastal manufacturer where raw stock included drift wood. There was one that ground pallets and other scrap wood items as raw material.
Caveat Emptor!!
Isaac Carlson
Minister of Fire
As has been stated, they are made from whatever goes through the grinder. I contacted one mfg of bricks claiming super high btu's and they had some explanation of how it worked out because of density and moisture content. It was BS, they are like pine or soft maple from my estimates. I get my wood "free" and process it myself. Plenty of room here. Hoping to have a total of 30-40 cord by hard water season.
Ask around at tree services to see if they have any dead trees coming down that you could get. That might get you a head start. Slab wood is another option that we have used when short on wood. It dries fast if covered, but burns fast. Pretty cheap too. It got us through a couple of rough spots
Now we have 2-3 years dry and the rest is logs. Total cost for us to heat is under $100/yr, which is awesome. Most of that is the cost of fuel to haul the wood, the rest is chainsaw gas, bar oil, chains, and electricity for the splitter. We are trying to get as far ahead as possible. Crazy times, you know.
Ask around at tree services to see if they have any dead trees coming down that you could get. That might get you a head start. Slab wood is another option that we have used when short on wood. It dries fast if covered, but burns fast. Pretty cheap too. It got us through a couple of rough spots
Now we have 2-3 years dry and the rest is logs. Total cost for us to heat is under $100/yr, which is awesome. Most of that is the cost of fuel to haul the wood, the rest is chainsaw gas, bar oil, chains, and electricity for the splitter. We are trying to get as far ahead as possible. Crazy times, you know.
BCC_Burner
Feeling the Heat
All species of wood have about the same number of BTUs/pound, although certain conifers are higher due to pitch content. 10 pounds of quaking aspen splits will have right around the same number of of BTU's as 10 pounds of Hedge, Oak, whatever.
I think the NIELs are a fantastic product, and if I could find them in western Colorado (closest dealer now is in Laramie which is 5 hours and 250+ miles away), I would buy 2 tons every season to supplement my firewood. I burned them when I lived in Washington state (where they and other products like them are ubiquitous), and was always impressed with the burn times and heat output I was able to achieve.
Well this turned into a bill nye real fast.... I was just wondering if anyone had done it and wanted to know if it was a cord wood replacement yet, I don't care to much about cost more about less work and mess and ease of use since i'm gone a lot and my wife has to run it.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
In that case, yes, compressed wood logs are a reasonable alternative to cordwood.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
Just have to keep an eye on the stove when using the compressed wood products, otherwise it's mostly like burning firewood.
those NEILS are the cream of the crop. A friend brought me a few when he was out there hunting. Not available in my local. ( freight from west coast is a killer) Most others that I have been able to acquire in my local do not reach the same standard. I have not used compressed blocks exclusively but always a mix. ( ya the not quite dry enough wood routine) With a move and various other factors my 3 year plan went up in smoke ( another reason for a 3 or more year plan). I am now back to processing . Fuel supply is likely going to need a bit of help from the blocks this year.
Out of curiosity due to this thread I grabbed a couple packs of biobricks from TSC and tossed a couple in the fire pit. The first time it just smoldered for a few hours. The 2nd time I had a decent fire going and it lit right up. I might grab a few more packs for winter to give them a run in the stove.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
They are definitely harder to start than regular firewood. I think due to density and none of the pieces are small. You’ll need a kindling fire or base of coals. Some brands of bio brick can be split apart into wafers that start a little easier.
