Stove advice

[CjNMN]

Hello,
I moved to N.Minn 2 years ago, bought a cabin with loft that also has a newer stick built addition. The cabin is 6" square sided tamarack with open floor plan, [see attached]. The cabin has a decent crawl space underneath, new edition is on a slab, with infloor hydronic heat via mini boiler, plus a loop into kitch/bath area in cabin.
There is also a F/A propane/ac unit with ducts feeding entire house. Previous owner also installed a wood stove but took it with him when he left. So I have the stove pad and almost new 6" pipe for exhaust.
I'd like to make use of this pad and pipe and put in a stove that fits the foot print.

I've met previous owner and he said that as wood stove is located near cold air return, the stove would keep the house quite warm. I've also met some of the neighbors, and have easy access to a logger that can provide firewood.

I am strongly considering getting a wood stove again, after this year's cold winter and high propane prices. This winter I am mainly using electric heat this winter, but that is running about $200 month for just the off-peak demand and I've got t-stat set low at 65d.

I've read thru some of the discussions here and searched online for some basic stove info.
Now for my questions.
1. Can I expect the F/A system to distribute the heat well enough, or will I end up sweating in living room/kitchen and freezing in the new edition?
2. Will firebox of approx 1.8 -2.5 cu ft, should be enough for whole house?
I would consider still using in-floor heat system, just set t-stat lower, and at some point retro fit that system with solar thermal collector.
3. Stoves to consider? Englander NC13 or try to find a used Jotul F100 or other cast iron stove.
4. Any other things to consider?

Thanks,
Cj

 

[begreen]

Welcome. What is the total sq ftg being heated, 1200 sq ft? If so, you are in the right sizing for a stove, though that puts you more in the Jotul F400-F500 range. The F100 is too small.

I have a couple safety concerns. The hearth pad dimensions seem odd, a new stove will need a proper hearth pad. This is particularly true for the Englander 13NC which requires a very well insulated hearth R=2.0. If that is an issue consider an ember protection only stove like the True North TN19. Also, it is against code to have a return air duct within 10 ft of the wood stove. You might find that it is easy enough to circulate warmth by just placing a small fan on the floor at the entrance to the master bed room, pointed toward the kitchen. This will set up a convection loop that will draw warm air in to replace the displaced cool air.

If you have pictures of the hearth area that would help.

 

[CjNMN]

Welcome. What is the total sq ftg being heated, 1200 sq ft? If so, you are in the right sizing for a stove, though that puts you more in the Jotul F400-F500 range. The F100 is too small.

I have a couple safety concerns. The hearth pad dimensions seem odd, a new stove will need a proper hearth pad. This is particularly true for the Englander 13NC which requires a very well insulated hearth R=2.0. If that is an issue consider an ember protection only stove like the True North TN19. Also, it is against code to have a return air duct within 10 ft of the wood stove. You might find that it is easy enough to circulate warmth by just placing a small fan on the floor at the entrance to the master bed room, pointed toward the kitchen. This will set up a convection loop that will draw warm air in to replace the displaced cool air.

If you have pictures of the hearth area that would help.

Ok, here is picture of hearth area.

 

[begreen]

OK, that is definitely a shallow, ember protection only hearth, but it will just accommodate the TN19.

(broken link removed to http://www.pacificenergy.net/products/wood/fireplaces-2/truenorth/)

 

[CjNMN]

OK, that is definitely a shallow, ember protection only hearth, but it will just accommodate the TN19.

(broken link removed to http://www.pacificenergy.net/products/wood/fireplaces-2/truenorth/)

Ok. Would it be better to re-do the hearth to increase the overall foot print size, it seems most newer stoves need more depth.

 

[begreen]

Depends on the stove choice, but I think you will be ok. If the legs or pedestal base are firmly centered on the upper step with a couple inches to spare you'll be fine. At 27" wide it should accommodate several 2 cu ft stoves. The TN19's pedestal base is only about 22". The Lopi Endeavor is about 23", and the Drolet Escape 1800's pedestal base is just 21"w x 16" deep.

 

[CjNMN]

Depends on the stove choice, but I think you will be ok. If the legs or pedestal base are firmly centered on the upper step with a couple inches to spare you'll be fine. At 27" wide it should accommodate several 2 cu ft stoves. The TN19's pedestal base is only about 22". The Lopi Endeavor is about 23", and the Drolet Escape 1800's pedestal base is just 21"w x 16" deep.

OK, thanks for the info.

 

[CjNMN]

OK, thanks for the info.

I have just found a deal on Drolet Legend for almost same price as Escape. I have looked over the Legend hearth requirements and looks like it will fit too.
Any other issues I should consider with upgrading to the larger stove?

 

[begreen]

Definitely oversized, but you are in a very cold climate. It won't be ideal for fall and spring but that may just mean you make smaller fires and let them go out. Will you be frequently taking the place up from say 40F to 70F or will it be normally heated by a central system to a warmer temp?

 

[CjNMN]

Definitely oversized, but you are in a very cold climate. It won't be ideal for fall and spring but that may just mean you make smaller fires and let them go out. Will you be frequently taking the place up from say 40F to 70F or will it be normally heated by a central system to a warmer temp?

No big temp swings. I was thinking with bigger fire box, it would provide a longer burn time even at a lower setting. I've read quite a few posts that favor going with bigger fire box if given the choice between 2 stoves. Especially in this case where cost will be almost identical.
However, if you think I won't be able to throttle back this bigger stove in spring and fall, that may be a factor to consider.

 

[begreen]

At some point bigger is not always better. If you look back you will find there are a few threads every year where folks downsize because the stove was too large to burn efficiently. Modern EPA stoves are designed to not smolder. If you want long burns at a lower setting then you will need a catalytic stove.

 

[CjNMN]

At some point bigger is not always better. If you look back you will find there are a few threads every year where folks downsize because the stove was too large to burn efficiently. Modern EPA stoves are designed to not smolder. If you want long burns at a lower setting then you will need a catalytic stove.

Stopped by local stove shop yesterday, to check inventory and prices and took a good look at the True North 19 stove. It certainly looks well built, price is $999. Then I went to fleet store to see the drolets. They had sold out of the 1800 only had 1 legend left for $888. After comparing it to the TN19, it seems hugh and I am inclined to go with TN 19, even tho price is higher. I was reading thru the manual and it discussed burn in procedure and that it could be quite odorus for awhile. Should I do the burn in step with stove outside, using a temporary 6ft pipe?

 

[begreen]

I have done breakins indoors and out. Both work, the real smell comes when the stove gets over 500F. It is usually just for one burn. The next burn may stink a little but not nearly as bad. If indoors, do it on a day when you can open a nearby window. A fan blowing out helps.

 

[logger]

If you have the option of burning and breaking it in outside then go for it. We didnt so I did it in the house. The odor just smelled like some paint curing and wasnt bad at all. Lasted about 15-20 minutes with each burn and we just opened a window and it went right away, def not the end of the world.

 

[begreen]

If this was with the enameled Oslo, it is minor compared to a fully painted stove.

 

[CjNMN]

If you have the option of burning and breaking it in outside then go for it. We didnt so I did it in the house. The odor just smelled like some paint curing and wasnt bad at all. Lasted about 15-20 minutes with each burn and we just opened a window and it went right away, def not the end of the world.

Yep, you are correct. Odor was pretty minor, just opened a window for awhile. Have been through a couple of half full loads today, just getting used to how long it lasts, damper setting, and temps, I had put in a 1/3 load last nite about 11pm and set damper to about 1/2, got up at 6am and only had a few tiny embers , not enough to restart, so will go for a larger load tonite and set back damper a bit more.
I really appreciate the wealth of info here on the forums and for your detailed answers here.

Cj

 

[begreen]

Try a full or at least 3/4 load and close the air down before going to bed. But do this first during the daytime so that you can watch the stove and get used to running a decent sized load in it.