Hey all! We have a 8 year old Hudson River Kinderhook pellet stove and we have replaced and cleaned every part we can think, of but it’s still running hot and no matter the setting the blower is constantly blowing. We don’t have a thermostat and have it on manual. Does anyone have any recommendations on what could be ailing it? The stove gets so hot to touch and the house gets up over 80 degrees! Thank you in advance!
Stove blower going on high no matter what setting…help!
- Thread starter Amanda Atwood
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Welcome to the forum
A few questions to start
The stove is set on manual no thermostat Correct?
After the fire starts (10 to 15 min), does the system light turn solid?
Can the heat level on the panel be increased or decreased once fire is established?
A few questions to start
The stove is set on manual no thermostat Correct?
After the fire starts (10 to 15 min), does the system light turn solid?
Can the heat level on the panel be increased or decreased once fire is established?
Along with the above.. Im a little confused you say the blower is always on high? Have you checked both fans for operation? THe stove is getting hot and the hose temp runs into the 80's? So to me that sounds like your stove is running full blast and no matter what you set it to on the control board its not adjusting the burn down? Looks like you stove control is similar to mine push button for temp control and that controls the fans as well.
Thank you! Correct no thermostat, once the fire is going and the blower kicks on we can turn the light on the panel up and down but it doesn’t change the heat output. When the fire is just starting we can turn it up and down and you can hear the blower going up and down along with it.
I may be wrong but the magic smoke may have escaped your control board
In the story version blown board
pull it and check the tracers and components for burnt marks (black Spots)
I am sure there are members or know somewhere that it can be repaired
I don't think a replacement board is to expensive
In the story version blown board
pull it and check the tracers and components for burnt marks (black Spots)
I am sure there are members or know somewhere that it can be repaired
I don't think a replacement board is to expensive
Would that be the digital control board? We just replaced that in hopes that was it and it’s still doing that. 
We replaced both the combustion and convection blower along with the control board and censers. That is exactly what it’s doing! We manually put the heat output up or down and you can hear the blower go up and down when the stove first starts up but than once it’s running for a bit it kicks on high and even though the lights change on the board the blower is running on high. We changed the door gasket and all the other gaskets with the new parts as well.
Where the thermostat is connected in the stove needs to be jumped
If there is no jumper wire connected install one
See the picture on page 18 of your manual
If you don't have a manual then here is one online
Run your stove should be good now
If there is no jumper wire connected install one
See the picture on page 18 of your manual
If you don't have a manual then here is one online
Run your stove should be good now
ARC
Minister of Fire
Their should be a couple of snap disks in their for proof of fire and high limit. Im wondering if you have them in backwards? When i purchased my stove the previous owner put the wrong snap disk in the exhaust blower and the fan would always run faster than it should have when i put the new one in and the proper one the stove ran much quieter.
zrock maybe I am missing something but my understanding is if the proof of fire switch was wired for the overheat switch the stove would shut down before it even got hot . Am I missing something just an old retired Tech inquiring?
ARC
Minister of Fire
You are correct the POF switch is a normally open switch if wired to the Over Heat it should tell the stove that is over heated and should not even start. The Over Heat switch is a Normally closed switch if wired to the POF I don't think stove would ever completely shut down.
I am unsure what would happen is stove is run in manual without the jumper, if in auto it would run on low all the time.
The Kinderhook has 3 snap switches a 120 Normally open Proof of Fire, a 160 Normally open Room Blower and a 250 Normally Closed High Limit switch. Now the question is did they replace switches with the correct ones?
ARC
Minister of Fire
Another question what color are the wires going to the Auger should be one white, one yellow? Room blower should have one white one purple?
Did you replace the Auger? Not saying to replace auger just want to know if you did.
Did you replace the Auger? Not saying to replace auger just want to know if you did.
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