Stove Installed - Clearance Wrong and Question

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Would swapping out to single wall stove connector be a dumb idea here? I know it may affect draft a little, however the length in the house is ~3.5 feet with a 90 going out the wall to the double wall chimney of about 23'.
 
Probably not. Single wall stove pipe is radiates a lot of heat and needs at least 18" clearance. Also, I suspect you may still be concerned about wall temps even if the pipe was switched.
 
Probably not. Single wall stove pipe is radiates a lot of heat and needs at least 18" clearance. Also, I suspect you may still be concerned about wall temps even if the pipe was switched.

Ahh, that's true.

Somewhat related question, would cast iron be a bad idea for a wall shield? I ask this because the wife has found a large fireback that would likely work for the side if we used fireback feet to support it at the bottom (also allowing the airflow) and spacers at the top to sit it off of the wall. That said, it is cast iron and could hold some heat.
 
Not to add to your headaches at all, because I'm certainly a tweaker myself when things aren't done right by "professionals" but I gotta ask, why not just a corner install? Were the clearances too much/the stove would have to be out too far? It does seem like moving it over would make it awfully close to that door as it stands now.
 
Not to add to your headaches at all, because I'm certainly a tweaker myself when things aren't done right by "professionals" but I gotta ask, why not just a corner install? Were the clearances too much/the stove would have to be out too far? It does seem like moving it over would make it awfully close to that door as it stands now.

Ha, funny you should ask. We actually started out with a corner install, but our small living room and large pad size made that a non-starter. Pad was simply way too far out into the living room to make it work for us.
 
Ha, funny you should ask. We actually started out with a corner install, but our small living room and large pad size made that a non-starter. Pad was simply way too far out into the living room to make it work for us.

Understood! I was in a similar predicament with my living room and ended up really narrowing down my stove options simply based on my tight clearance requirements. Anyway, hope you get it sorted out with a dealer. Writing bad reviews and going on a crusade to bring their incompetence to light can certainly be tiring, when all you wanted in the first place was a proper install. As corny as it may sound, it's not a bad idea to let them know you will intend to write such reviews and never recommend them to anyone if they can't fix their mistakes.
 
Ahh, that's true.

Somewhat related question, would cast iron be a bad idea for a wall shield? I ask this because the wife has found a large fireback that would likely work for the side if we used fireback feet to support it at the bottom (also allowing the airflow) and spacers at the top to sit it off of the wall. That said, it is cast iron and could hold some heat.
Yes, potentially it could work if large enough and installed properly per nfpa 211 guidelines.
 
I don't want to be that "guy" but if it were me, I'd take the free wall shield and put it on myself, cold weather is here, I'd use the stove as is then in the spring take down the wall shield, sell it on craigslist and design something myself. After receiving the wall shield I'd leave a "less then desirable" review, but remember, two way street, you may need other warranty work from these people in the future, don't cut your to spite your face.
 
I don't want to be that "guy" but if it were me, I'd take the free wall shield and put it on myself, cold weather is here, I'd use the stove as is then in the spring take down the wall shield, sell it on craigslist and design something myself. After receiving the wall shield I'd leave a "less then desirable" review, but remember, two way street, you may need other warranty work from these people in the future, don't cut your to spite your face.
If it were me i would give them a chance to fix it at their cost. If they dont do it i would either fix it myself or hire someone to do it and send them a bill. If they dont pay take them to court. They were hired to do a professional install if they didnt install it as required by the manufacturer they didnt do their job. And it is their responsibility to fix it or cover any costs required to fix it.

And if they dont fix it they would not be allowed in my house again. Any warranty work would be handled by someone else.
 
If you do resort to single wall, make them use the highest quality welded pipe
Probably not. Single wall stove pipe is radiates a lot of heat and needs at least 18" clearance. Also, I suspect you may still be concerned about wall temps even if the pipe was switched.

Their stove is UL tested at less than 18" clearance for single wall. Many are.
 
If you do resort to single wall, make them use the highest quality welded pipe


Their stove is UL tested at less than 18" clearance for single wall. Many are.
I am by no means saying you are the welded stuff is better but the snap lock stuff works just fine to. That is what i used in my house. And it is what i install on most stoves. It holds up for many years with no issues.

And yes clearly they tested it and it can be closer than 18" but as i have said before i would still use double wall just because i never like to install to minimums.
 
Strange twist on this one aint it!
 
If you do resort to single wall, make them use the highest quality welded pipe

Their stove is UL tested at less than 18" clearance for single wall. Many are.

The stove side clearance is less than 18" (17" in this case for single wall) not the stove pipe. It is the stove pipe clearance to the rear wall that would be compromised. Although the side clearance goes down an inch with single wall pipe, the rear clearance increase by 3" unless the single-wall is shielded.
 
I would let the contractor fix it at their cost. If that person gives you a hard time, call Jotul and explain. Not getting clearances correct should be a no brainer for them to support you on.
 
I thought of another option last night - if you look at the Jotul manual for the stove, the following clearances are listed for single-wall connector to unprotected surfaces:

Side (A) - 15" - we have 15.5"
Rear (B) - 11" - we have 14"
Corner (J) - 10" - we have 19"
Horizontal Installation (I'm guessing this is the section parallel to the ceiling) - 18" - we have ~24"

Would swapping out the double-wall we currently have with single-wall solve the problem or just introduce new issues? The stove pipe on the outside of the house is double wall.

I did bring this up at one point with the dealer and he suggested we were so much better off with the double-wall connector. Anyway, just a thought.


The rear clearance is the one they need to meet. With single wall they can get the stove within 11". What is the measurement from the back to the collar?
 
I'm with bholler. Just not comfortable with going below minimums, regardless. I've seen stove spaceouts and single wall pipe at 1000º. That will radiate a ton of heat and has the potential to raise drywall temps above the recommended maximum.
 
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I would just stick with the double-wall wall and put a good looking wall shield on both walls to above the stove flue collar height. Done right it will look quite intentional and provide good peace of mind.
 
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Some wall shields can be quite artsy. Whatever they think looks best. I think it will work out in the end.
 
Exactly - we don't want to move the stove off-center. The 45 degree elbow proposed by the dealer would push the stove over 6".

Concerning the cost, I'd like to get the dealer to foot the bill for this since it's their mistake. We wouldn't be having this discussion with them if it weren't for this, but here we are.
The company is liable if your house burns down I would think the installer would do everything they can do to satisfy you and keep your home safe

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Put me in corner of cut out the wall and install cement backer covered in a material that accents the decor of the room of course on the back of the installer. If he doesn't make it right then you have only two options left and both of them could get expensive.

My buddy has such a corner floor to ceiling with stone veneer and some very nice Hubbington Forge light fixtures.
 
Cutting out the wall is unnecessary. It would only reduce clearances by the thickness of the sheetrock. The wall shield needs to be on 1" spacers so the drywall behind it can remain intact. Or a course of full sized brick could be used.
 
The company is liable if your house burns down I would think the installer would do everything they can do to satisfy you and keep your home safe

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You would think that yes. Sadly the reality is there are some "pros" who dont think that way. And as a pro my self it really pisses me off.
 
If I was the owner of the company, I would give the buyer the options and cover it 100%.

Everything is personal to me. That is why I will never be rich!
 
You would think that yes. Sadly the reality is there are some "pros" who dont think that way. And as a pro my self it really pisses me off.
I think that some pros have an “everything is just fine” attitude-even though things may not because they don’t want to deal with a hassle. I hope the OP has one that will make it right, in this case.
I’ve had a few different chimney pros at my house over time ranging in quality from scary to really good ( from what I can tell). It’s really all over the map. It’s probably like anything else in life- There are very good doctors and others who couldn’t care less about you.
 
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