Thanks. I'll use screws for the lower sections near the stove.I don't know what to tell you. Stainless steel blind rivets aren't too hard to find around here.
You can install them with a hand riveting tool. It takes a bit more force than the aluminum ones but I've done it. Professionals would probably use a powered rivet gun.
Aluminum melts at 660 C. That is slightly higher than the recommended flue operating temperatures, but can be easily reached momentarily during startup or if you forget to close down the stove, or if you have a chimney fire. It might be okay, but I can not recommend using aluminum components anywhere in your flue path.
In that case I think short steel screws would be fine to hold the sections together.Yep I see the steel pop rivets are widely available in the UK.
Here non-existent and they have no knowledge of them in my local hardware stores or online.
The reality of living in a tiny developing country with traditional methods still ripe. They keep cars going as long as possible, reboring engines, grinding crankshafts, making carb jets themselves etc. Many small workshops like these. Nice to see though. Less wasteful.
The plan is to use the aluminum ones on most sections but with also a backup steel screw in case of failures.
As explained before the fabrication shops have no idea of how to cut custom parts they have never seen before. It's a waste of time trying to explain to them what it is.Get a storm collar fabricated out of stainless by a local metal shop. It's just a truncated cone. That will save some maintenance and drips.
Maybe mock one up with stiff paper and bring it to them as a template? It will look like the letter C.As explained before the fabrication shops have no idea of how to cut custom parts they have never seen before. It's a waste of time trying to explain to them what it is.
Easier just to use the roofing tape which is designed for our strong sun and will last 10 years plus.