I have this set at 4-7-1 and then 9-9 and the temperture in the living room where the stove is is only 67 degrees. THis thing really heats up to 2200 square feet all right
Summers Heat 55-SHP22
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Outside was 12 below
I was using Spruce Pointe pellets but ran out and am now using Penningtons. I just did a complete clean of the stove. I put the furnace on 72 got the temp to 72 turned the furnace off and withing an hour i was back down to 68
Not house temp just the room where the stove is, i nthe kitchen 20 feet away it was 63-64.
No i dont have an outside air kit, but ive been told my a number of people that dont have anything to do with heat. I talked to a guy who has the same stove and his house was up to 73 at 9-9
Any tips on what i can do
I was using Spruce Pointe pellets but ran out and am now using Penningtons. I just did a complete clean of the stove. I put the furnace on 72 got the temp to 72 turned the furnace off and withing an hour i was back down to 68
Not house temp just the room where the stove is, i nthe kitchen 20 feet away it was 63-64.
No i dont have an outside air kit, but ive been told my a number of people that dont have anything to do with heat. I talked to a guy who has the same stove and his house was up to 73 at 9-9
Any tips on what i can do
Does your stove have an impingement plate, if so is it in its proper position?
Tell us about the condition of your house as to windows, insulation, drafts, etc...
Not to be picky, I believe that it is a requirement of Englander that that stove have its outside air kit installed.
Also that "number of people" are wrong.
Tell us about the condition of your house as to windows, insulation, drafts, etc...
Not to be picky, I believe that it is a requirement of Englander that that stove have its outside air kit installed.
Also that "number of people" are wrong.
not sure thats an impingement plate plate? House is a 1978 and very well insulated. I have plastic over a cople draft windows.
It sits at the top of the fire box and the exhaust from the fire etc... hits it it is a critical part of the heat transfer system on some stoves if it is not properly seated you will not get as much of the heat transfered to the heat exchangers as could be (in fact you'll lose a lot of heat produced by the stove). Please note I'm asking because I don't have a manual for that particular stove at the moment.
Now if you talk to Mike Holton of Englander (he is stoveguy2esw) on this forum he can shed light on the burn efficiency increase you get with an OAK.
The other thing about an OAK is it will stop the air infiltration into your house from that lovely -12 degree outside air that gets sucked into your living space and travels across your floor mixing with some of the heated air in the rooms and right up and out the flue at a rate equal to flow being produced by your combustion blower.
Now if you talk to Mike Holton of Englander (he is stoveguy2esw) on this forum he can shed light on the burn efficiency increase you get with an OAK.
The other thing about an OAK is it will stop the air infiltration into your house from that lovely -12 degree outside air that gets sucked into your living space and travels across your floor mixing with some of the heated air in the rooms and right up and out the flue at a rate equal to flow being produced by your combustion blower.
YEs i believe i have one, theres some sort of plate there that i remove and clean when i do my complete stove cleaning.
I have the 25 pdv by Englander and I couldn't be happier ( rated at 2200 sq). I have not had to put it on 9-9 yet this winter, and I live in upstate NY and we've had nights down below 0. My home is about 1800 sq ft and well insulated raised ranch. I agree with the post above, an outside air kit is a must with the Englander. This topic has been brought up many times in other posts and debated to death.( try a search if you wish) But the fact is, Englander has it in the manual as a must. And from what I have read, those that try to not use an OAK with this stove, they get a cold draft from other rooms at the floor, due to the stove trying to draw in enough air. Not sure what your troubles may be, but I'm doubting its the stove. You should contact Englander direct, and talk to a tech, or e-mail Mike that posts here from that company. It may be your pellets also. If your home is as well insulated at you say, this stove should be cooking you out at 9-9, and your home is less then 2000 square feet.
1978 houses had standard 2 x 4 studding and wall cavities that were usually one stud in depth. What is in your walls and when was it installed? A lot of insulation that is blow in has a tendency to settle, leaving gaps at the high point (where the temperature is likely to be highest) in the wall cavities resulting in additional heat loss.
How much insulation is in your attic?
Are there any crawlspaces that aren't insulated?
How high are the ceilings?
How much window area is there?
As you can tell I'm trying to get a handle on your house's heat loss figure, if it is more than the stove can generate the stove will not be able to keep up and your temperature will not be able to be kept at a certain point. Instead of 72 degrees when it is -12 you may be able to maintain 65.
First you make sure to seal air leaks and then you increase the amount of insulation where possible.
How much insulation is in your attic?
Are there any crawlspaces that aren't insulated?
How high are the ceilings?
How much window area is there?
As you can tell I'm trying to get a handle on your house's heat loss figure, if it is more than the stove can generate the stove will not be able to keep up and your temperature will not be able to be kept at a certain point. Instead of 72 degrees when it is -12 you may be able to maintain 65.
First you make sure to seal air leaks and then you increase the amount of insulation where possible.
Chris04626 said:
How much insulation in the cap to the house?
Windows even if they are the very best can present a massive heat loss via a number of means and a lot of them can make it even worse.
Do you by any chance know the heat rating for your oil eater?
Here is a link to a heat loss calculator http://www.builditsolar.com/References/Calculators/HeatLoss/HeatLoss.htm , plug in your figures and see what it says for your house.
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