The great splitting maul debate

[Rob_Red]

What do you all use for a manual splitting tool? I'd like something that isn't a disposable item. I have a large red oak coming down that is about 3 feet in diameter (dang gypsy moths)

I assume I will need to use a wedge for some of the big gnarly stuff. What about the rest? Do you prefer a lighter splitting axe? Or a big daddy maul?

I only will be splitting 2 cords a year max so I don't want to go all in on a powered unit YET.

I realize a lot of this is personal preference, but experience is appreciated!

 

[begreen]

For big stuff I have an 8# maul and several good wedges, and a power splitter.

 

[EbS-P]

If it’s pretty straight the fiskars x27 is a good balance between weight and power. I did a 34” live red oak butt with it. That said I have several axes. 8 pound fiskars maul and a 4.5 pound Kelly works is what I started with. That did everything but the kindling for maybe 4-5 cords. You probably will want or need a maul, but as pretty fit almost forty year old I can really only work with it effectively for 20-30 minutes in really hard splitting wood. It’s a workout. So I break up all the rounds into big chunks and then go after it with a lighter axe. 60-80 year old yard grown yellow pines are tough. Even the 8# maul will bounce off and I can only work around the edges of it before I can split it into chunks.
I don’t use wedges. I have a good strong swing and if it won’t split I toss it aside and will get to it next time the chainsaw is out.
It would be nice to have a nice sharp maul.
Something around 4 pounds and 36” and then a dissector that’s around 3 pounds on a 28-32” handle that you could swing accurately even if you are a bit tired. But one tool to do it all the x27 is hard to beat.

Unsolicited advice...I can’t tell you how much I like my pulp hook for moving and stacking firewood. I got some tendinitis in my wrist and elbow just from gripping the split wood to move and stack after about 2 cords in 4 weeks. The ergonomics of the pulp hook are better than a pickaroon IMO.
Evan
*edited auto corrects.

 

[David.Ervin]

I'll second the Fiskars x27 in combination with a 6# "beat it to death" maul. Odds are good you'll be able to handle anything that's not a super twisted root flare or crotch piece with just those two things.

 

[Rob_Red]

How's the steel on the Fiskars? Does the edge roll over easily?

 

[Mutineer]

64 year old 4-5 cord/year burner here and I only use my old maul for huge rounds back in the woods in order to carry out manageable pieces. Everything else goes through the hydro spltter.

 

[gthomas785]

I just bought myself a 6lb maul and I don't think I'm ever going back to axe splitting.
I do also have a lightweight electric-hydraulic splitter that I use for the stringy and twisty stuff, or if I'm just feeling weak on a particular day. But it's slow compared to the maul.

 

[Rob_Red]

I'm not opposed to hydo splitter but its just not in the cards this year.

 

[EbS-P]

How's the steel on the Fiskars? Does the edge roll over easily?

Pretty good. Can't say I've ever rolled the edge but they all have a few nicks from rocks. This is the worst shape they have been in as I just finished splitting some pine in the driveway. I just take my flats file to them and smooth up the edges sharp enough..... to split.

 

[EbS-P]

I'm not opposed to hydo splitter but its just not in the cards this year.

My personal opinion is that 2 cords a year is not a huge amount to split IF it’s splittable by hand. Splitting 1/3 cord a weekend and stacking it the next is pretty doable. I like an appliance dolly to move the big rounds and logs around. No need to store or maintain a splitter.

 

[Corey]

The lightest tool that will reliably split the wood you have in your area is generally your best bet. In my area, it is knotty elm and twisted hedge, so the lightest tool is generally a 30 ton hydraulic splitter. With your oak, assuming relatively straight grain, a maul toward the lighter end of the spectrum might work if you use it right. No matter how big the round, there is always a spot 5-6" from the edge... hit it there and start slabbing chunks off. If you go for the center of a 3 ft diameter round, you might need multiple mauls and wedges to get a split started.

 

[SpaceBus]

Pretty good. Can't say I've ever rolled the edge but they all have a few nicks from rocks. This is the worst shape they have been in as I just finished splitting some pine in the driveway. I just take my flats file to them and smooth up the edges sharp enough..... to split. View attachment 278698View attachment 278699

I stick with a fine file for most of my axes. For my single edge carving hatchet, which I use for kindling, I use a diamond stone.

 

[Lakeside]

I am in the Fiskers camp. Tip to use the shingle method , with the round held together with a bungee too.

 

[Nealm66]

I prefer a light maul. I recently purchased (on a whim) a stihl splitting maul. It looks beastly and well built but it actually feels slightly out of balance on a swing and I miss my shots sometimes. Not by much, maybe 1/2 inch? But that makes a big difference. Still, it does look really cool ha ha!

 

[Solarguy3500]

If a $200 axe is in your budget, the Gransfors Bruk Large Splitting Axe is an awesome tool. I justified it by saying that I wasn't going to spend $1,000 - $2,000 on a splitter, so I was going to spend a little more and get a really good axe.

I got some para cord and wrapped the handle to give myself a little better grip and a little extra protection for the handle in case I miss a swing and hit the handle on a round of wood.

I also got a Fiskars 8 lb maul for Christmas and I barely use it. I can swing the axe all day long and it's a good workout but doesn't kill me. It's just no fun swinging that heavy maul and wearing myself out quickly, plus my aim suffers with the heavy maul.

In short, splitting with the axe is actually enjoyable. Using the maul is too much like work

 

[Sawset]

An 8lb mall from farmfleet, and a couple felling wedges from baileys have split a lot of wood here. Renting a splitter for 2-1/2 cord/4hrs, plus hand splitting a couple cords usually made enough for the year. A couple of the felling wedges have lasted a decade, have been beat to a pulp, but still look fairly new. 10" version.

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[Highbeam]

Rent a splitter each year until you can buy one. Don’t fight with wedges, take your saw and cut the round sideways to get it small enough to move. I even use my splitter for kindling!

 

[Simonkenton]

I have the 8 pound Fiskars maul and that is a great maul. I had been using the classic Monster Maul for decades. The Fiskars is so good, it put the Monster Maul on the bench.
For really tough wood I have several splitting wedges, and a 9 pound sledge hammer.

 

[kennyp2339]

I got rid of the maul years ago, switched over to splitting axes and the heaviest of the heavy round get a purchase point started with the chainsaw then steel wedges and a sledge hammer for the rest of the way, just quartering up pieces for the splitter so I dont bust out my back again.

 

[MongoMongoson]

How's the steel on the Fiskars? Does the edge roll over easily?

I have an X25 that I have been using for 8 or 9 years. The edge does not roll. It is much more likely to chip than roll. I keep it pretty sharp, and have found the lighter maul/axe to be a game changer. At my height, I think an X27 would be better but I got the X25 as a gift, so I'm not complaining.

Prior to using the X25 I used a Council 8-lb maul. What a difference the Fiskars makes. As others have stated, the lighter tool let you work longer and I think it actually splits better than the heavier maul. If the light splitter doesn't get it done, I have wedges and sledges.

I have split about 4 cords of hickory, oak, and ash with the X25 and wedges this spring. I have a 25 ton splitter in the garage, and I will drag it out to finish off some really nasty ones that are more trouble than they are worth with the hand tools.

 

[walhondingnashua]

I just bought a gas splitter BUT...

For the last 5 years I have split by hand. Have a basic 6lb maul and torpedo wedge for harder stuff and a double bit axe when I could use it. Bought a Fiskers x27 and it is pretty impressive. Maybe keep a few options within hand for whatever you get into.

Most important thing to me other than what you split with is what you split on. Set yourself up a good, solid splitting block and that makes all the difference.

 

[Simonkenton]

Yes, it is important to have a good chopping block. I have a 22 inch diameter locust chopping block. It is pretty beat up, I have used it for 2 years and it has at least one more good year in it.

 

[David.Ervin]

How's the steel on the Fiskars? Does the edge roll over easily?

Hard enough. Mine has a couple nicks from hitting a rock or something on an overstrike, but it's more than serviceable. They advertise that the head comes with some sort of anti-stick coating on it, but my experience is that it wears off almost immediately and doesn't seem to matter.

 

[WoodBurnerInWI]

I own 3 splitting axes/mauls:

The GB large splitting
Fiskars X-25
Fiskars splitting maul

I also own a 27t splitter since I split anywhere from 10 to 15 cords of wood every year.

Overall, I found myself using the Fiskars more and more than the GB. Not because I think the GB can't do the job, it works great! But rather it's such a nice looking ax I just don't want to use it lol!! Also most all of my logs come from tree services and not too surprisingly they are every size imaginable with many "objects" embedded in them to be wary of (metal, rocks, etc). I didn't want to risk ruining the GB axe if I hit something with it that wasn't wood so that's mainly how I came to using the Fiskars products as my "daily" use axe.

The Fiskars have held up great thus far and have certainly hit plenty of crap within the wood as well as dirt and rocks and they are fine. The edges on both get filed every once and awhile to maintain some type of edge on them and haven't had any issues with rust on the metal either.

 

[Caw]

I've split about 10 cords of hardwood by hand this year with this combo:

8# Fiskars Maul
8# Sledge
Fiskars X27

I use the maul as a wedge on the giant rounds and just pound it with the sledge. The x27 does 95% of the work though, I only use the maul/sledge when necessary. My wife who is 5'4 and 120 lbs actually prefers the maul...go figure! They have held up nicely even hitting all sorts of hidden metal, rocks, and driveway along the way. I just touch up the edge on the x27 with my chainsaw file if it gets gnarly.

The Gransfor's looks like a really nice tool I'd love to try one out. Hard to justify the cost though when I love my x27 for 1/4 the price. If I ever splurge on a new axe it'll be that one or something custom. Next purchase is going to be a splitter I'm going to split (lol) with my father and brother in law. No sense in each buying our own we are all local and can share!