The saga continues... getting the chimney ready

[RIMatt]

Hi all so I posted a thread last week about getting my mantel in shape and getting clearances checked out for a Jotul F400. I think I have the clearances all set now since I’m going to be making a heat shield and attaching it to the lintel of the fireplace opening.

My next step is to figure out my chimney. I have a flat roof on my house so I’m going to be attempting to put a liner in myself and then connecting the stove when I get it.

Here are my thoughts and questions:

I’m going to measure the height of my chimney as I’m afraid it is not 15’. I’m guessing it’s 13 feet but will need to confirm later this week. I’m assuming 13’ is going to cause draft issues? It is an interior wall chimney but still plan on getting an insulated SS liner. Is this the right thing to do? I have a picture that shows what appears to be a liner already but I think it might be for my oil furnace. I’ll get a better pic this week when I go up and check it out.

This is gonna be a long road as I’m not planning on getting the stove until next year. But in the mean time I can work on pricing out and getting the chimney cleaned and inspected.

I’ll keep you posted

 

[begreen]

The Castine likes a stronger draft. It might be worth revisiting the Hampton H300 with a straight-up connection. The Hampton will draft ok with the shorter chimney. The F400 might, but it may spill smoke if outdoor temps are mild (above 40º).

 

[HomeinPA]

If push came to shove and you needed to extend the height of the chimney and liner you could get rid of the big cap and use a piece of Class-A with the proper adapter at the top of the liner. I suppose you could also cut a hole in the top of the big cap and run the pipe through it too.

 

[RIMatt]

If I were to extend the height of the chimney with class A pipe attached to the liner would I need to support it somehow? I have read mixed reviews on here about that.

What do you think about using bricks and mortar to add more height to the chimney as a whole instead of just the class A? Would I need to worry about getting more pipe for the oil furnace flue too? I am really dead set on the Jotul F400 as i think it will look the best.

I am not able to do a straight up connection since I am putting this into an existing masonry fireplace. I was going to rear vent the unit and connect it with a snout and a T and then have that connect to the liner all the way up to the chimney.

 

[SpaceBus]

What about using the Duraliner system which has some pipe coming through the top of the masonry chimney (6" is the minimum)?

 

[RIMatt]

I'll look into that. At this point I am open to any options really.

 

[SpaceBus]

I have a masonry chimney that needs to be relined and due to not wanting to smash out the clay liner I'm using the Duraliner due to the small outside diameter. Just waiting for it to ship and then I have to rent a lift to install it!

 

[RIMatt]

I have a masonry chimney that needs to be relined and due to not wanting to smash out the clay liner I'm using the Duraliner due to the small outside diameter. Just waiting for it to ship and then I have to rent a lift to install it!

Ill have to take some measurements and more pictures once I get onto the roof and see what I am dealing with in more detail.

 

[kennyp2339]

Insulated liner to an anchor plate, from anchor plate (1) 3ft length of class A chimney. You'll have 16ft.

 

[HomeinPA]

If I were to extend the height of the chimney with class A pipe attached to the liner would I need to support it somehow? I have read mixed reviews on here about that.

What do you think about using bricks and mortar to add more height to the chimney as a whole instead of just the class A? Would I need to worry about getting more pipe for the oil furnace flue too? I am really dead set on the Jotul F400 as i think it will look the best.

I am not able to do a straight up connection since I am putting this into an existing masonry fireplace. I was going to rear vent the unit and connect it with a snout and a T and then have that connect to the liner all the way up to the chimney.

I would cut the tile off flush and tapcon the transition plate to the top of the crown along with adhesive to seal around the edges and add a 3 or 4 foot piece, whatever you decide, and it'll be fine. Going up another 10 or 12 feet is a whole different setup.

 

[RIMatt]

I'm not fully understanding the cutting tile flush part that @HomeinPA is talking about. I assume a transition plate is the same as an anchor plate? And then sealed with silicone high temp... and adding a class a to the transition plate? I think the anchor plate that @kennyp2339 makes more sense and seems easier. Not sure which if those are the same ideas just using different names for one thing?

 

[spudman99]

@HomeinPA is suggesting to cut off the existing terra cotta pipe that extends above the crown so it is level with the crown. This will provide a much wider purchase where one can anchor the transition/anchor plate. Looks something like this



You then anchor the plate using tapcon screws into the crown with adequate sealant to form a stable and secure base. Then the 3' extension pipe is attached and the cap put on top of that.

 

[RIMatt]

I see now. That makes sense. How would you connect the liner to the pipe though? Is it a clamp or a coupler?

 

[kennyp2339]

I see now. That makes sense. How would you connect the liner to the pipe though? Is it a clamp or a coupler?

You connect the liner the same way as you connect it to a cap at the end of the chimney, anchor plate has a male end the goes into the liner.. remember all ends face down so any dripping creosote goes back towards the stove and not leak out creating a mess.

 

[RIMatt]

Ok. That makes sense now. This is all adding up. Tomorrow I’m going to go on top of my roof and take some measurements. Thanks for the help folks.

 

[RIMatt]

For the extended chimney pipe, I need a class A ss pipe does it need to be single, double or tripled walled?

 

[begreen]

There is no single-wall, class A. Use class A double-wall chimney pipe.

 

[RIMatt]

Ok. So once the liner is in place I installed the anchor plate and cut the liner with a hack saw flush to the top of the anchor plate and then add the 3-4' of double wall class A pipe and then the rain cap on top of the double wall pipe?

 

[RIMatt]

I forgot to ask... is there a clamp that clamps the liner to the anchor plate so it doesn’t fall out of place? Does the class A just sit on the anchor plate and you turn it to lock it in place?

 

[HomeinPA]

The anchor plates I've used have a male adapter on the bottom with a clamp to hold the liner secure. You pretty much need 4 hands and a nut driver to keep everything in place.

 

[RIMatt]

Do you suspect any draft issues if I have a 90 degree Tee connecting the stove to the liner? The stove is going it be installed into an interior masonry fireplace and I’m planning on having 15’ of pipe.

 

[begreen]

Straight up would be better, but it's worth a try. Be sure the horiz. section going to the tee is short and tilted upward toward the tee. The F400 may spill some smoke when opening the door. It has a shallow firebox and a big door.

 

[RIMatt]

I haven’t had a chance to look at the set up more deeply because I’m a year out from purchasing a stove but do you think you could use a 45 degree with a rear vent or is 90 degree the only option?

 

[begreen]

A 45 might work. Still, a year from now we don't even know if the F400 will be for sale.

 

[RIMatt]

I didn’t even think that would be an issue but I guess it’s a possibility. I hope they keep it. I love the design and it would fit great.