Thermo control flu or plate

[mfoster]

So I had posted one week ago with questions about temp in my inherited system. Got some tips, came out to clear out box today and was poking around and noticed a huge 75 lb plate was loose. It essentially fell down when I poked my shovel at it, and this is the view now of inside. A large piece of angle iron is in chimney and looks like a flu plate or something is angled back.

Is the opening to chimney supposed to be open here 24 hours because nothing is operating to move that plate.

 

[thinktwicez71]

Any pictures ?


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[mfoster]

this is what it looks like after the giant plate came out. You can see the two Metal screws in the rear he had it somewhat secured with.

 

[mfoster]

Also to mention, there was half a bucket of ash on top that plate and a huge piece of insulation birds or mice dragged in somehow in the summer. It could be a tag line in their advertising...the insulation looked new once I shook all the ash out. At any rate, this plate and may have been a large part of my issues getting up to temp. Now I can really hear the air moving through this thing while fire is burning and seems to be keeping higher temps. I have no idea why the previous owner would have put this thing in there other than it may hold heat longer after loss of fire, but other than that it seems a liability. The angle iron resting in the chimney has me equally confused. Previous home owner gave all diy'ers a bad name.

 

[Marshy]

Hard for me to see exactly what it is from my mobile. I wonder if it's just a passive baffle in an attempt to keep flame from traveling up the chimney pipe. I've had other non-epa stoves with baffles that are just a plate of steel resting in place. I'd consider taking it out of the firebox to get a better look at what it is. Maybe look for broken welds on it or missing hardware...?

 

[velvetfoot]

Is that the baffle the manual refers to? Have you looked at the manual?

 

[maple1]

Might want to contact the company about it, if the manual doesn't clear it up. A baffle to slow down flow to/out the flue isn't uncommon, running without it might not be good.

 

[mfoster]

Is that the baffle the manual refers to? Have you looked at the manual?

I did, I am confused probably on the basic principle of the working of a chimney though. The manual makes it seem as though that baffle would be closed during operation, thus stopping flow though the chimney there. Wouldn't that stop air flow and reduce burning? Right now, the baffle is open as shown in my photo. The original owner removed the baffle rod, and has that piece of angle iron in the chimney appearing to hold the baffle where its at. The huge plate that was in the firebox was certainly deflecting flow there, ill get a photo of that when I get home.

I'm calling thermo control today to see if I can order the hardware for that baffle rod. I would really like to just undo all this guys custom work so I can get it running back to stock.

 

[mfoster]

Nice, another company that does not answer their phone. I'm sure they will call back today.

 

[maple1]

Any operation of a baffle should not stop any flow - it just re-directs it.

 

[mfoster]

Any operation of a baffle should not stop any flow - it just re-directs it.

I included a page of the user guide showing the basic structure. If you look at the baffle explanation it shows it moving back to open, that is where mine is resting...then forward for closing. When this is closed it would be forming a flush flat wall and closing flow into the opening that is currently open with it resting back. Is there another major path for smoke to enter the chimney? I can certainly here everything moving more with the huge plate and all the crud being removed.

I would love to have someone come check this all out...I am new to the area and do not know any companies. I will ask them if they have tech that can come out. They are actually not very far.

 

[maple1]

That looks like that when the baffle is closed (forward), the gases would flow down around the bottom of the baffle then up behind the baffle to the flue.

 

[maple1]

'6. Secondary air supply'

Can you tell where that is?

 

[mfoster]

'6. Secondary air supply'

Can you tell where that is?

They do reference that and its very small area under that rear section. They even reference that its typically covered with ash. If I get that baffle working, ill need to really keep that section clean...seems nearly impossible to keep that empty.

 

[mfoster]

Spoke to thermo control for a bit today. SUPER friendly and helpful. That baffle should be closed, and the fact it has not been is a MAJOR contributing factor to my temp issues. She was still confident my wood stack is crummy too...so we will start with closing that baffle and trying for better wood.

Maple1, what is not shown in that diagram but is shown in their parts views...is there is a rather large hole towards the bottom of that unit that allows air flow. I still need to keep it cleaner, but the opening is much larger than I had thought for that secondary air supply.

 

[Marshy]

I've considered getting one of these stoves for a long time before I got my BK. I wanted to connect it to my hydronic systems and have a gravity setup Incase I lose power. I was always scare of how inefficient they might really be. Do you heat water with it?

 

[mfoster]

I've considered getting one of these stoves for a long time before I got my BK. I wanted to connect it to my hydronic systems and have a gravity setup Incase I lose power. I was always scare of how inefficient they might really be. Do you heat water with it?

We do. Our home is 3600 sqft and built in 1900. My issues are nothing to judge their product by. I am learning, starting with a system the previous owner did god knows what with, and working with a big house. I am feeling rather good about it thus far. All told, oil and wood...we are right at 1000 to 1100 bucks this year. I'm in upstate ny...so not so bad. If only I know what the hell I was doing....

 

[thinktwicez71]

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[Marshy]

We do. Our home is 3600 sqft and built in 1900. My issues are nothing to judge their product by. I am learning, starting with a system the previous owner did god knows what with, and working with a big house. I am feeling rather good about it thus far. All told, oil and wood...we are right at 1000 to 1100 bucks this year. I'm in upstate ny...so not so bad. If only I know what the hell I was doing....

Your on the right track with getting the stove up to snuff. Where in upstate are you? I'm about an hour north of Syracuse.

 

[rwh442]

A rod used to connect to that plate and come out the end of the stove/boiler with a wood handle. Push the rod in to open the baffle to increase air flow to eliminate smoke coming out the door when loading wood. Pull the rod out or close the plate to burn the wood. The burnt gases exit then at the bottom of the baffle.

Looking at your picture you have way too many ashes that cover the bottom of the baffle. If that plate is closed then there is no way for the burnt gases to exit. Always pull your ashes/coals forward towards the door and keep the area under the baffle clear. Close the plate at the top of the baffle to get a good burn. With that plate open you will burn a LOT of wood.

The only time that plate should be open is when you are loading wood or trying to start a fire (increase air flow).

 

[mfoster]

Your on the right track with getting the stove up to snuff. Where in upstate are you? I'm about an hour north of Syracuse.

Not far...I'm in Richfield springs. You are welcome to come check this thing out sometime. I am having MUCH better results with the baffle closed. Now I just need some good seasoned wood. I think I'm on track to having a well oiled machine...Knock on wood.

 

[mfoster]

UPDATE:::

So I spoke to Kayla at Thermo Control for some time, she even snapped photos for me of units in process in their shop. The baffle is ONLY for loading. Why the previous owner had it blocked open and routed out with the huge plate, I'm not sure.

I pulled it shut using a heavy coat hanger with a bent end. It has stayed shut for several days now. I am experiencing MUCH longer burns and better temps. Granted, its been in the 20's and low 30's rather than tens...but I think its operating better and more how its designed to.

I am pleasantly surprised how easy it is to keep the rear free of ash. My stove is very large, so I have plenty of room up front for 3 stacks of 3 good sized split, and whole logs.

Thanks to all the help on this one. I'm sure ill be needing more soon. I am taking notes of areas to change in the spring. I will be installing many ball valves and pressure/temp gauges in the system. Increasing size of expansion tank. Adding an expansion tank to the oil heat loop.