Too cheap to buy rooftop support kit

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bag of hammers

Minister of Fire
Jan 7, 2010
1,442
Northern ON
This past weekend was a disassemble-and-remove-the-old-stove adventure. I got the parts out and roof patched on Saturday, the electrical storm insanity hit us on Sunday (whew....).

Since I'm in the up-on-the-roof mode now, I figure I'll get back up there this weekend and while I clean the newer chimney on my 2200 I might add some bracing (I'm legal, but we get some wicked winds so I'm thinking of doing it anyway). I see the kit selling at the local shop for @ $60. I already have a Selkirk stainless metal wall band that I think I can re-use - the flanges are already drilled, and if I bend them @ 45 deg I can easily bolt on the top end of each leg. I have metal support brackets (more spare parts) I can fasten to the roof deck, and attach the bottom of each leg. I just need to come up with a DIY set of legs (adjustable). Any suggestions on what to use for legs?

Yes I'm cheap but if I can easily improve the stability of my chimney with existing parts then why not?

EDIT - one more question, they say to fasten the roof brackets into a framing member e.g. top edge of rafter, as opposed to just using the roof decking (in my case, 1/2" plywood). How do you hit the rafter or framing without guesswork or turning the roof into Swiss cheese?
 
To hit the rafter, take a hammer and tap the roof surface, you will know when your on top of a rafter as it the hit will feel solid and the sound will be different than when your hitting a spot without the rafter underneath. It will bounce less, will be more of a dull thud, than a vibrating thud. You will know. Then tap an inch or half inch either way, and you will get a feel for how wide the area is above the rafter to get a better feel of where the center of the rafter is. You can also try a stud finder.
 
To hit the rafter, take a hammer and tap the roof surface, you will know when your on top of a rafter as it the hit will feel solid and the sound will be different than when your hitting a spot without the rafter underneath. It will bounce less, will be more of a dull thud, than a vibrating thud. You will know. Then tap an inch or half inch either way, and you will get a feel for how wide the area is above the rafter to get a better feel of where the center of the rafter is. You can also try a stud finder.
Thanks Hogwildz - I have an old piece of crap stud finder - I figured it would probably have a meltdown trying to see through shingles and plywood - but i can give it a try. Makes me a bit nervous punching any holes in the roof so I have to get it right the first time.
 
I'll be putting up a support kit before winter also. Should be fun.

I kinda thought about it a couple times, and folks here suggested to do it even just for extra peace of mind, then I got caught up in other stuff. Then a neighbor down the road lost his entire chimney early this year. They spend almost no time there during winter so they didn't even know it was down. They have a steep metal roof and their chimney extends up near the eve. There was a lot of pipe up there to get the required height. And a lot of slippery steel roof above the flashing. It was braced, but not sure how solid the brace was, as it was all down when I saw it. Could be some ice on the roof slid down and whacked the chimney. Along with crazy winds that could do some real damage. It was a mess laying on the ground when they showed up in the Spring. I don't know how much damage the entire system took - maybe the inside pipe / top end connections etc got whacked too. Good thing they weren't out there with a fire rolling in the stove when all that let go. At the very least it would have scared the crap out of them. My roof is a more gentle 4/12 slope, asphalt shingles, a bit better shelter from the wind, and the chimney is close to the peak, so I think have a bit more stable setup. But it still got me thinking about getting some extra bracing on there anyway.
 
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