USSC 6041 Burnt Out Third Auger Motor This Winter

[Caleb Joens]

I need help from anyone who has dealt with this before. I purchased a USSC 6041 this fall and installed it. Everything seems to work pretty well and she can dump some heat into the room, but I have burnt out my third auger motor in 2 months of use. Every time the motor burns out it is when I am scraping the burnpot during use. For this last motor I started opening the hopper door to open the hopper door switch and prevent the auger motor from trying to turn, but that did not seem to help either. I cannot continue to operate this stove if the motor is going to burn out so quickly. Has anyone else dealt with the before and what can be done to increase the life of the motor?

Background:
I have only put premium or ultra premium pellets in the stove
I completely clean the stove weekly at a minimum, including vacuuming the hopper out.
I can freely spin the auger once the motor is detached and the pellets are cleaned out

Any and all help is greatly appreciated

 

[Bioburner]

Try and return the stove. Sounds like another control board issue. Your not the only one on the forum with not USA stove problem.

 

[Caleb Joens]

If it is a control board issue couldn't I just replace the control board? It is still under warranty and I would think that could send me a different one.

Also,
The fuse on the auger motor is a 250V 1A time delay fuse, but the motor is only 0.4A which seems odd. Shouldn't the fuse be the same size as the motor so that it burns out before the motor does?

Thanks

 

[Bioburner]

What do you do when the warranty expires? They should have decided on a different plan of attack on your problem after the second motor. Minnesota lemon law would have gotten you a refund or different stove.

 

[Harvey Schneider]

The fuse on the auger motor is a 250V 1A time delay fuse, but the motor is only 0.4A which seems odd. Shouldn't the fuse be the same size as the motor so that it burns out before the motor does?

The 1A fuse is appropriate for the size of the motor.

When you say that the motor burned out, it is not clear exactly what is wrong with it.
Can you check the winding resistance? It should be 18 +/-a few Ohms.
Can you apply power to the motor without the stove controls? A pluggable cord with terminations to match the motor would allow you to run the motor and observe if it spins. This would also allow you to evaluate if the gearbox is stripped.
With this cheater cord you could:

• Observe if the motor rotor turns.
• Observe if the gearbox output shaft turns.
• Observe if the motor makes a humming sound.

I think it unlikely that the motors "burned out" it is possible that the gears are stripped or that something in the controls is stopping the application of power to the motor.
If you are running the stove at max output, it is possible that the overtemp switch is killing the fuel feed until the stove cools down. In this case the auger would start working again when the stove is cool.

 

[Caleb Joens]

When I replace the fuse it burns out immediately again until I switch out the motor which leads me to believe that the motor is no longer working. I have an extension cord that I can sacrifice to troubleshoot the motors, and I can get a multimeter (I should own one anyway) to test the resistance.

I don't think that the over-temp is causing issues because that has successfully tripped and been resolved before and it is unlike this problem.

I have taken the gearbox apart and they look completely fine so I do not think that it is the gearbox either, but it certainly could be something with the control board not send power anymore, but I don't understand why changing the motor would be the only way to fix it. I have looked at the motor when it is trying to run and it does not appear to be applying any torque to the auger, but that is also not direct wired.

Hopefully I can get another control board and see if the unit will finish out the rest of the winter without blowing a fuse or motor.

Thanks for the replies

 

[Harvey Schneider]

When I replace the fuse it burns out immediately again until I switch out the motor which leads me to believe that the motor is no longer working. I have an extension cord that I can sacrifice to troubleshoot the motors, and I can get a multimeter (I should own one anyway) to test the resistance.

I don't think that the over-temp is causing issues because that has successfully tripped and been resolved before and it is unlike this problem.

I have taken the gearbox apart and they look completely fine so I do not think that it is the gearbox either, but it certainly could be something with the control board not send power anymore, but I don't understand why changing the motor would be the only way to fix it. I have looked at the motor when it is trying to run and it does not appear to be applying any torque to the auger, but that is also not direct wired.

Hopefully I can get another control board and see if the unit will finish out the rest of the winter without blowing a fuse or motor.

Thanks for the replies

If the fuse is blowing, don't use a cheater cord.
It is unusual for these motors to go short circuit. It is possible that something is shorting to ground and taking out the fuse. A check of the motor resistance will tell you if it is safe to use a cheater cord. If the resistance is close to correct, it is safe.
The fact that the fuse is blowing when you open the door makes me wonder if you have a pinched or chafed wire somewhere that is shorting to ground when the door moves.

 

[Caleb Joens]

Thanks for the warning, I will make sure to check the resistance before using a cheater cord.

 

[Bioburner]

My original thoughts was that the motor is being fed some low voltage and that's what is causing the early demise of the motors. Might be a bad door switch if it has one or vacuum switch not fully opening and allowing weak juice. Just throwing it out there as someone else more familiar can think on this.

 

[Harvey Schneider]

My original thoughts was that the motor is being fed some low voltage and that's what is causing the early demise of the motors. Might be a bad door switch if it has one or vacuum switch not fully opening and allowing weak juice. Just throwing it out there as someone else more familiar can think on this.

Even at stall or with low input Voltage, these motors do not self destruct quickly. They will sit and smolder for a long time before failing. They are also unlikely to take out a fuse rated at 2 1/2 times their normal current. That's why I suspect a short circuit somewhere due to a chafed or pinched wire.

 

[zmedic]

I would call US Stove Company and get them to help you out. I had problems with my agitator motor on the 6039 and they helped me out with it. I had one ahole at first and then once I had him transfer me to someone a little better it was all smooth sailing.

 

[Caleb Joens]

Update:

I called USSC and told talked to them about what is happening and they are sending out a new control board and motor. Lets hope this fixes the issue for good. Downside is that it will take 7-10 business days and I have to burn $4.50/gal LP during the wait. It really does seem like the fuse should blow before the motor is shot. $2 fuse vs. $100 motor, I would rather have the fuse blow.

 

[zmedic]

Well I definitely wish you the best on that one. They stand behind their products and will keep shooting it until its right.

 

[Bioburner]

With the extreme cold burning dino farts is wicked. I did a calculation yesterday based on that days use, 90 lbs biofuel about 720,000 btus, if burnt propain at 90,000 btu per gallon would be 8 gallons and the gas is $5.20 a gallon. Would have killed the bank account by over $41. Todays temp high again -2. If we had to burn gas instead of corn and pellets that 10 days would be over $400. Glad we got dependable stoves.

 

[Mt Bob]

Before you put in new board,check your outlet,and make sure ground wire inside stove hooked up.

 

[Lake Girl]

Surge protect your stove if you haven't already....

 

[zmedic]

I have an old house, lathe and plaster walls, that uses fuel/oil baseboard heat. I was told takes 6 250 gal tanks $6,750.00 a year to make it through the winter. I burn 7-8 tons a year at $1840 a year. Let me think here. hmmmmmmm!

 

[heat seeker]

At current prices, I'm saving around $2500.00 a year. Plus, the house is warmer. But we all knew that!

 

[Bioburner]

Are you all calculating according to normal temps and fuel costs? Have not had either since Novemberrrr. Today's high was twenty five degrees below normal.

 

[zmedic]

Yeah that was according to what the guy burned last year, keeping it at 70. However this year is quite a bit colder. Either way it's well worth it! I am only using an American Harvest 6039 but am debating a CAB50 or 55 trpip soon, since its under powered for this place. It keeps it at 70 when the temps are 20 and above but thinking one with a little more sq ft will help a lot and not have to modulate on almost full bore. I was looking on AM FM and kinda between those 2 stoves, since my wallet can't afford the Harman right now. I saw a guy with 2 bixby's for 1300 online but wasn't to sure on them.

 

[Bioburner]

Problem is support on the bixbys. I am running a 115 with firmware update As this extreme winter slogs on. Great corn burner. Local has some of the 120s if we were to stay put would get one.

 

[heat seeker]

My pellet usage is pretty consistent over the past three years. Oil usage was what I burned the previous 4 years, average.

 

[zmedic]

Yeah not to sure on those. (broken link removed to http://burlington.craigslist.org/for/4305493662.html) Would it be worth it?

 

[zmedic]

I got this stove back in Sept from a friend. He had it for a back up and gave me a real good price on it. So my burn is based on how much have went through until now and calculating until around mid march april time frame

 

[Bioburner]

Drop a PM to Rona. He's wrangled that stove line. Those new 120s are going for $1200