Vogelzang VG150

[Deryk]

Hello,

I have used wood stoves many times over the years, but never installed one. I have a small under 600 sq foot cabin in the Pocono mountains that I go to on the weekends and wanted to add a smaller wood stove. I came across the TR001 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GU7QGPO/?tag=hearthamazon-20 and the size is a good match for the space I have and once I do the door mod that I have seen online it should give a little more draft air control.

I plan on using http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimn...lus-Through-The-Wall-Chimney-System-Kit-6-Dia for it...I have a corner in the living room that would seem to work for it. On page 8 (broken link removed to http://www.usstove.com/Manuals/Vogelzang/VG150.pdf) it shows the clearances to combustible walls, but I do plan on using shielding set at least an inch from the wall. My thought was 1/2 cement board from home depot and 22 gauge sheet copper over it spaced at least an inch from the wall. Would that be adequate for heat sheilding to reduce the distance. I came across this page http://nasdonline.org/335/d000132/proper-installation-operation-and-maintenance-of-a-wood.html near the top for installation Would the above mentioned shielding allow me to place the side of the stove to 12" from the wall vs the recomended 28" to a non shielded combustible wall? If not any suggestions for a better shielding and where I can purchase it locally? Oh btw the use of the copper instead of steel is decorative.

thanks
deryk

 

[begreen]

For heat shielding, that sheet of 22ga copper will be costly. Stainless steel or even plain steel would do the same job. Steel could be painted copper colored with engine paint if desired. If you do use the metal shield there is no need for the cement board behind it. The metal will be totally sufficient as long as it is on 1" spacers and is at least 1" off the hearth and open at the top so that air can convect freely behind it.

Equally important will be the chimney installation. This is the engine of the stove and it needs to be done properly.

 

[Deryk]

Thanks for the advice! I will check out some prices on sheet steel... And yes Safety is real important to me, hence why I will spend for the triple wall pipes vs my friend trying to tell me how to do it for cheap..I don't want the place to burn down lol

Just wanted to clarify, with the shielding would that allow the sidewall of the stove to be 12 inches from the shielded wall?

 

[begreen]

You are correct that the clearance could be reduced to 12" from the 28" with a properly installed NFPA 211 heat shield. It's best to get this reduction approved by the local inspecting authority.

 

[bholler]

Thanks for the advice! I will check out some prices on sheet steel... And yes Safety is real important to me, hence why I will spend for the triple wall pipes vs my friend trying to tell me how to do it for cheap..I don't want the place to burn down lol

Just wanted to clarify, with the shielding would that allow the sidewall of the stove to be 12 inches from the shielded wall?

I would strongly recomend using double wall insulated chimney instead of the triple wall it is a much better product

 

[Deryk]

I would strongly recomend using double wall insulated chimney instead of the triple wall it is a much better product

Please pardon my ignorance, I thought triple wall would be better then double wall?

Oh yeah question about making a hearth, I saw a few online that someone laid a piece of the right size recommended by the stove manuf of cement board...on top of that was the 2x4 frame work, then a piece of half inch plywood with another layer of cement board then ceramic tile or patio stone with the stove sitting on top of that...any thoughts?

and thank you

 

[bholler]

Please pardon my ignorance, I thought triple wall would be better then double wall?

Oh yeah question about making a hearth, I saw a few online that someone laid a piece of the right size recommended by the stove manuf of cement board...on top of that was the 2x4 frame work, then a piece of half inch plywood with another layer of cement board then ceramic tile or patio stone with the stove sitting on top of that...any thoughts?

and thank you

No the triple wall only has 1/2" insulation then an airspace. The doublewall has 1" of insulation and no airspace. The doublewall is much better at maintaining internal temps

 

[Deryk]

No the triple wall only has 1/2" insulation then an airspace. The doublewall has 1" of insulation and no airspace. The doublewall is much better at maintaining internal temps

Ah ok thanks...that makes sense

 

[bholler]

As far as the hearth goes you need to look at the stove instructions and see what r value is required. Many only require emberprotection and your plan would be fine for that. But if it requires much of any r value it will not

 

[begreen]

Oh yeah question about making a hearth, I saw a few online that someone laid a piece of the right size recommended by the stove manuf of cement board...on top of that was the 2x4 frame work, then a piece of half inch plywood with another layer of cement board then ceramic tile or patio stone with the stove sitting on top of that...any thoughts?

Your stove requires ember protection only. You could lay down a sheet of plywood, then the cement board then tile or stone and by fine. A sheet of metal or a basic hearth board would also work. If you decide to raise it a little with a 2x4 boxed frame then skip the cement board under the 2x4s. That does nothing for protection. For plywood, use 3/4" for better rigidity and screw anchoring. If you want to add extra protection use 2 sheets of Durock NexGen cement board for 1" total thickness. Or if you want to keep it simple, this will work:
https://www.northlineexpress.com/36-x-48-ul-1618-gray-slate-stoveboard-t2ul3648gt-1c-2456.html

 

[Deryk]

Now on the wall shielding, I wanted to do some tiling around the edges of the shielding (I saw those "thin Bricks" on HD website. I actually found a pretty decent source for copper https://www.etsy.com/listing/498799176/3-ft-x-8-ft-solid-copper-sheet-metal?ref=shop_home_feat_3 but its only 3 feet wide and want 3 feet tall shielding (I thought i saw somewhere that shielding is recomended 20" taller then the stove height. So could i mount the copper (or if I do painted steel) onto a sheet of plywood and add the brick tile all the way around the edge and then mount it on 1" spacer's on the wall?

thank you again

 

[bholler]

no you cant mount it onto plywood that is combustible and would make the shield useless. If you want to cover it in tile stone or whatever you would use cement board instead of metal.

 

[begreen]

The metal could be mounted to the middle of the cement board leaving a border for the brick. If mounting it should be with screws, adhesive will be combustible. If you go this route, a quick way to make spacers is to cut long 3" wide strips of the cement board and double them up. Then attach those paired strips vertically to the studs to create the 1" spacers.

 

[Deryk]

The metal could be mounted to the middle of the cement board leaving a border for the brick. If mounting it should be with screws, adhesive will be combustible. If you go this route, a quick way to make spacers is to cut long 3" wide strips of the cement board and double them up. Then attach those paired strips vertically to the studs to create the 1" spacers.

Thanks ok, that sounds good! Thanks!

 

[Deryk]

Ok, ordered the VG150 yesterday to have it delivered up to the cabin next week while I am up there on vacation... giving thought to ordering https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LNLQ4A/?tag=hearthamazon-20 for the chimney. Need to take some measurements for what length I need in chimney pipes. Now for the interior stove pipe should I stick with double wall I saw something about less creosote depositing on dual wall pipe or just single wall?

thanks

 

[Deryk]

Anyone?

 

[jetsam]

Double wall stays warmer inside. Warmer flue, less creosote.

 

[lhuffhines]

Thank you for purchasing the Vogelzang stove. If I can be of any help, please shoot me a PM. as stated, double wall will hold more heat right at the stove exit allowing for a warmer flue and yes, less creosote. As for your class A chimney, in my opinion, i prefer the triple wall kit that you were initally looking at. while it has a smaller blanket, the air space between walls 2 and 3 is also a very good insulator. in addition, during shipping this insulatin layer is rarely compromised. however, we have seen instances with double wall chimney systems (that use a pack insulation with sand) have issues with the insulation settling and moving during the shipping process and having a hot spot in them. I fyou are not going thru a large attic space or insulation space, you should be ok though.

 

[begreen]

Thank you for purchasing the Vogelzang stove. If I can be of any help, please shoot me a PM. as stated, double wall will hold more heat right at the stove exit allowing for a warmer flue and yes, less creosote. As for your class A chimney, in my opinion, i prefer the triple wall kit that you were initally looking at. while it has a smaller blanket, the air space between walls 2 and 3 is also a very good insulator. in addition, during shipping this insulatin layer is rarely compromised. however, we have seen instances with double wall chimney systems (that use a pack insulation with sand) have issues with the insulation settling and moving during the shipping process and having a hot spot in them. I fyou are not going thru a large attic space or insulation space, you should be ok though.

Triple wall DuraPlus is cheaper for a reason, cheaper materials. DuraTech is their better product and is not packed with sand and the insulation will not settle. They warranty against such a defect.

 

[jotul4412]

My first time on this forum. Want to put a "pre-fab" chimney through a flat roof in a detached brick garage for installation of a Jotul woodstove. Should I use double or triple wall pipe, and how far above the roof should it extend? Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[bholler]

My first time on this forum. Want to put a "pre-fab" chimney through a flat roof in a detached brick garage for installation of a Jotul woodstove. Should I use double or triple wall pipe, and how far above the roof should it extend? Thanks in advance for any help!

Well first off be aware that installing a woodstove in a garage is against code. But if you are going to do it anyway use double wall insulated chimney pipe and the chimney needs to be 3' out of the roof or 2' above anything withing 10'

 

[jotul4412]

Well first off be aware that installing a woodstove in a garage is against code. But if you are going to do it anyway use double wall insulated chimney pipe and the chimney needs to be 3' out of the roof or 2' above anything withing 10'

bholler,thanks for your response. The garage will no longer be used as a garage, so I would hope that would be OK from the code standpoint. Would double wall pipe be better than triple for this purpose?

 

[bholler]

bholler,thanks for your response. The garage will no longer be used as a garage, so I would hope that would be OK from the code standpoint. Would double wall pipe be better than triple for this purpose?

What will it be used for?

And yes double wall is better in every situation. It does cost a little more that is the only advantage of triplewall.

 

[jotul4412]

Turning it into a woodworking shop, but it’s unheated, so for the sake of not freezing my tail off while I’m working, I want to use the wood stove.

 

[jetsam]

Check with your town and your insurance company. Both may or may not frown heavily upon your project.