We might want a wood stove. Do we actually?
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Osagebndr
Minister of Fire
Room being a problem you could use the spot where the trees are falling if in one large general area. Clean that area up and fill it with split wood. Your getting a ton of . info don't get overwhelmed just take it a little at a time and run with it. All that ash , I'm jealous 
Wood warms you many times..
Cut load haul, split stack, load carry to house, load stove then finally burn!
Room being a problem you could use the spot where the trees are falling if in one large general area. Clean that area up and fill it with split wood. Your getting a ton of . info don't get overwhelmed just take it a little at a time and run with it. All that ash , I'm jealous
Ash is a bonus because it dries faster than many hardwoods.
I didn't read the whole thread, but I do have the same house as you. 1400 sq ft, with a ceiling height of 23ish feet in one half of the house. I have a Hearthstone Mansfield located in the corner of my living room. It heats the whole house nicely, and I can sit next to it without being cooked out of the room. When we bought the house, and stove, the house had a ton of really bad windows, four old skylights, and had no Tyvek/wrap. We bought a big stove to overcome those problems, and just burned extra wood to stay warm. We have remodeled since then, and burn far less wood now. Good luck.
The radiant heat from a soapstone stove can be felt from across the room and it feels a couple degrees warmer than it really is; Your wife will love it. 
Dead White Ash will dry totally in 2 yrs here, regardless of split size. I like cat stoves for burning smaller splits because you can cut the air way back and control the gassing. I never ran a tube stove but I'm guessing that a full load of small stuff in a tube stove would be harder to control since you can't cut the air as far. Plus it sounds like you will have a tall stack, although you could add a pipe damper to cut the draft. A ceiling fan in the tall room, set to blow up, will break up the temp stratification. A Woodstock PH would probably work in there, and toast your wife like a marshmallow. There may be more of a learning curve a cat or hybrid stove than with some other stoves, but lots of good threads here to shortcut the process. You have to know how your stove likes to run, know your wood's burning characteristics which vary with species, moisture content, split size, and know how outside temps affect your draft.
Dead White Ash will dry totally in 2 yrs here, regardless of split size. I like cat stoves for burning smaller splits because you can cut the air way back and control the gassing. I never ran a tube stove but I'm guessing that a full load of small stuff in a tube stove would be harder to control since you can't cut the air as far. Plus it sounds like you will have a tall stack, although you could add a pipe damper to cut the draft. A ceiling fan in the tall room, set to blow up, will break up the temp stratification. A Woodstock PH would probably work in there, and toast your wife like a marshmallow. There may be more of a learning curve a cat or hybrid stove than with some other stoves, but lots of good threads here to shortcut the process. You have to know how your stove likes to run, know your wood's burning characteristics which vary with species, moisture content, split size, and know how outside temps affect your draft.
Amen to that, Woody. The only problem is hoisting the cats (or dogs) out of the best chair.
A large enough woodstove will certainly heat 1400 sqft, even with mediocre insulation and cathedral ceilings. A ceiling fan may be required, though. I would look at a stove with a firebox size of 2.5 to 3 cu ft. If you want to get a radiant stove to please your wife, a soapstone stove would be a great idea. Woodstock Progress Hybrid or Hearthstone Mansfield would fall into that category. Other option would be a radiant cast-iron stove like a Jotul F600 or Quadrafire Isle Royale. However, you seem to be leaning towards more modern looking stoves. Possible candidates:
Pacific Energy Neo 2.5: New model = very few experiences yet. However, PE makes quality stoves and has a loyal following here.
Osburn Matrix: I really like that look with the optional soapstone side panels. Has been around for a while; you should easily find some opinions here.
Englander Madison: Also new stove but some threads already exist. Would be the budget choice. ~$900 when special ordered through HomeDepot or another Englander retailer. Good customer service.
Englander 30NC: Even bigger than the Madison. Needs a hearth with a r-value of 1.5. Many satisfied owner here; probably the best price to performance ratio in the industry.
Woodstock Ideal Steel: Large stove with a 3.2 cu ft firebox. Has a catalyst which means you can turn down the air more and run the stove at lower heat output for a very long time. If you are looking for a stove that needs tending only every 12+ hours then this may be a good option.
BlazeKing Chinook 30: Another cat stove. Same principle applies: Low, steady heat for an extended time with the possibility to turn it up when it gets really cold. However, more of a convective heater.
Regency CS2400: Based on the F2400, a proven performer. A tad smaller than the other ones here. May need some furnace support when it gets really cold.
Heatilator Eco-choice WS22: Less well known but the few members who have one seem very happy. A more budget friendly choice. http://www.heatilatorecochoice.com/products/details.asp?cat=wood-stoves&f=WS22
Rule of thumb: The smaller the (side) clearances for a stove the more convective it is. If you go for a more radiant model, make sure it fits in the spot you want to place it including clearances.
Pacific Energy Neo 2.5: New model = very few experiences yet. However, PE makes quality stoves and has a loyal following here.
Osburn Matrix: I really like that look with the optional soapstone side panels. Has been around for a while; you should easily find some opinions here.
Englander Madison: Also new stove but some threads already exist. Would be the budget choice. ~$900 when special ordered through HomeDepot or another Englander retailer. Good customer service.
Englander 30NC: Even bigger than the Madison. Needs a hearth with a r-value of 1.5. Many satisfied owner here; probably the best price to performance ratio in the industry.
Woodstock Ideal Steel: Large stove with a 3.2 cu ft firebox. Has a catalyst which means you can turn down the air more and run the stove at lower heat output for a very long time. If you are looking for a stove that needs tending only every 12+ hours then this may be a good option.
BlazeKing Chinook 30: Another cat stove. Same principle applies: Low, steady heat for an extended time with the possibility to turn it up when it gets really cold. However, more of a convective heater.
Regency CS2400: Based on the F2400, a proven performer. A tad smaller than the other ones here. May need some furnace support when it gets really cold.
Heatilator Eco-choice WS22: Less well known but the few members who have one seem very happy. A more budget friendly choice. http://www.heatilatorecochoice.com/products/details.asp?cat=wood-stoves&f=WS22
Rule of thumb: The smaller the (side) clearances for a stove the more convective it is. If you go for a more radiant model, make sure it fits in the spot you want to place it including clearances.
BradleyW
Burning Hunk
I kind of feel bad for the OP. This all got a little out of hand, but was interesting to read.
My parents heated with a traditional heat pump when I was growing up (and still do). I didn't know any different at the time but looking back I would never want to own a house heated like that. It would feel cold to sit by the vent when the "heat" was running.
Two years ago when I was looking to buy a house I had a vague idea I wanted to heat with wood. I had no idea what I was getting into. Turns out I love it. I am a homebody and I consider the stove (and the wood) a hobby that saves me some money. I would rather stack wood than play golf or go fishing. And the burning process is endlessly fascinating.
As far as what stove to buy, I would concur with the 2.5-3.0 cubic foot firebox. I would add that I would get the best stove I could afford from the dealer I trust the most. I think the dealer is as or more important than the stove.
Not sure if this helps, but good luck with your decision making.
My parents heated with a traditional heat pump when I was growing up (and still do). I didn't know any different at the time but looking back I would never want to own a house heated like that. It would feel cold to sit by the vent when the "heat" was running.
Two years ago when I was looking to buy a house I had a vague idea I wanted to heat with wood. I had no idea what I was getting into. Turns out I love it. I am a homebody and I consider the stove (and the wood) a hobby that saves me some money. I would rather stack wood than play golf or go fishing. And the burning process is endlessly fascinating.
As far as what stove to buy, I would concur with the 2.5-3.0 cubic foot firebox. I would add that I would get the best stove I could afford from the dealer I trust the most. I think the dealer is as or more important than the stove.
Not sure if this helps, but good luck with your decision making.
brad wilton
Feeling the Heat
brad wilton
Feeling the Heat
Drolet optima 1700 sqft max very modern looking.buying one for back of house need more contemporary look
Isaac Carlson
Minister of Fire
If you are seriously considering a wood stove and need a lot of heat or need to heat a big area, take a look at Kitchen Queen stoves.
We got one and LOVE it. We have not used our electric range or oven since fall and may not use it again at all. The 480 will easily heat your house. Put a fan in the cathedral section if you need to to move hot air down to the floor. It has a firebox volume of nearly 5 cubic feet and will burn for hours. We live in NW WI and have burned a little over 2 full cord so far and have seen temps of -30°F and our house is very drafty. It is a wonderful stove and it will keep you going even if the power goes out for days.
We got one and LOVE it. We have not used our electric range or oven since fall and may not use it again at all. The 480 will easily heat your house. Put a fan in the cathedral section if you need to to move hot air down to the floor. It has a firebox volume of nearly 5 cubic feet and will burn for hours. We live in NW WI and have burned a little over 2 full cord so far and have seen temps of -30°F and our house is very drafty. It is a wonderful stove and it will keep you going even if the power goes out for days.
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claydogg84
Minister of Fire
mass_burner
Minister of Fire
There are many variables here, species, at r flow, sun time, location, rack design. Oak does dry slowly, I think it may be the reason you hear 2+ years a lot.
Sorry your thread got all tangled.
The progress hybrid by woodstock seems to fit what your looking for operationally but perhaps not modern enough looking. Good luck in your search for answers.
(broken link removed to http://www.woodstove.com/owner-photos)
The progress hybrid by woodstock seems to fit what your looking for operationally but perhaps not modern enough looking. Good luck in your search for answers.
(broken link removed to http://www.woodstove.com/owner-photos)
A lot of info for sure . You know before you try to process all of the options , stove choice, life style , fuel savings etc , I would suggest visiting a neighbor or friend who has a wood stove in their home . Spend a little time, ask some questions, see if it's a possible good fit for you ................
mass_burner
Minister of Fire
OK, OK - so it's punky!It's my Cdn accent and I am a bit spunky.
Crazy Canadians . . . next thing you know they'll be adding in an extra vowel in words like labor, arbour and colour . . . or switching up the placement of the letters such as centre and theatre.
It's OK though Doug . . . being in Maine I think Canadians are great neighbours/neighbors, they have a great sense of humour/humor and visiting Canada is among one of my favourite/favorite things to do when choosing a vacation spot.
What's even more freaky is when I was in Britain, I was amazed how many words they spell wrong. 
Canadian spelling is half British and half American. What's even worse is that I can't understand what most Brits are saying when they talk. Sorta the same as trying to understand someone from Boston.
Canadian spelling is half British and half American. What's even worse is that I can't understand what most Brits are saying when they talk. Sorta the same as trying to understand someone from Boston.
They just save the r from words like car and use them on the end of words like pizza. "Get in the ca kids and we will go for pizzar."
Williaty . . .
What a long, strange thread it's been, eh?
Anyways . . . thanks to your last few posts I think I see where you're going and have some more thoughts on the subject.
I think you could most definitely get a woodstove installed that would allow for occasional use and for those times when there is a power outage . . . just be forewarned that there are some pros- and cons- to burning with wood (many of these already mentioned). Again though, I wouldn't be surprised if you were to put in the stove and then either discover a) how much you enjoy the heat and like burning and end up burning even more than you thought you would or b) how much you dislike the mess, work, etc. and rethink the whole thing a year after you've installed the stove. . . . of course there is always c) you install the stove and use it as you planned and are quite happy (personally I would hope for choice a or c.)
Ah . . . using up the dead wood . . . cutting the EAB destroyed ash and other dead wood on the property and using that wood for fuel for power outages. This makes sense. Yes. I understand now. With two acres and just burning occasionally I think you would do OK. On my own two acres each year I find dead trees that I cut down (mostly small elm) and process into firewood (just not enough wood to support my full time 24/7 burning habit). While time is important to season the wood, sun and wind exposure can be equally important. You also don't need to use up a huge footprint of your yard if space is at a premium (especially if you're only taking a few cords of wood burned each year) . . . and if the wood is top covered and stacked off the ground it will be fine to use for many years . . . so you can buck it, split it and stack it . . . and then just let it sit there seasoning away until you need it.
Burn times . . . 6 hours of usable heat . . . definitely do-able. Cat stoves and larger stoves result in longer burn times than secondary burners and smaller stoves, but I think in your case your expectations are not unreasonable. What you want is definitely possible.
Your concept of loading the stove, adjusting the air until the fire is stable and then doing nothing until it is time to reload at the coaling stage is fundamentally correct . . . however a properly drafting stove normally should not be belching out any smoke and certainly no flames with a reload. In fact, to me, if you go into a home that smells of creosote or smoke, there is something very, very wrong with that installation . . . or there is a serious maintenance problem going on.
What a long, strange thread it's been, eh?
Anyways . . . thanks to your last few posts I think I see where you're going and have some more thoughts on the subject.
I think you could most definitely get a woodstove installed that would allow for occasional use and for those times when there is a power outage . . . just be forewarned that there are some pros- and cons- to burning with wood (many of these already mentioned). Again though, I wouldn't be surprised if you were to put in the stove and then either discover a) how much you enjoy the heat and like burning and end up burning even more than you thought you would or b) how much you dislike the mess, work, etc. and rethink the whole thing a year after you've installed the stove. . . . of course there is always c) you install the stove and use it as you planned and are quite happy (personally I would hope for choice a or c.)
Ah . . . using up the dead wood . . . cutting the EAB destroyed ash and other dead wood on the property and using that wood for fuel for power outages. This makes sense. Yes. I understand now. With two acres and just burning occasionally I think you would do OK. On my own two acres each year I find dead trees that I cut down (mostly small elm) and process into firewood (just not enough wood to support my full time 24/7 burning habit). While time is important to season the wood, sun and wind exposure can be equally important. You also don't need to use up a huge footprint of your yard if space is at a premium (especially if you're only taking a few cords of wood burned each year) . . . and if the wood is top covered and stacked off the ground it will be fine to use for many years . . . so you can buck it, split it and stack it . . . and then just let it sit there seasoning away until you need it.
Burn times . . . 6 hours of usable heat . . . definitely do-able. Cat stoves and larger stoves result in longer burn times than secondary burners and smaller stoves, but I think in your case your expectations are not unreasonable. What you want is definitely possible.
Your concept of loading the stove, adjusting the air until the fire is stable and then doing nothing until it is time to reload at the coaling stage is fundamentally correct . . . however a properly drafting stove normally should not be belching out any smoke and certainly no flames with a reload. In fact, to me, if you go into a home that smells of creosote or smoke, there is something very, very wrong with that installation . . . or there is a serious maintenance problem going on.
eclecticcottage
Minister of Fire
Ok...Shesh. I'll give you my thoughts. We have heated two older leaky homes with two types of non-central heat. The Old House used two (it was a very divided 2 story, about 850 sq ft) direct vent gas stoves. The Cottage uses one wood stove (see sig below for info) and a ventfree as backup (not exactly what I'd recommend, but it's what we've got for now).
IF you're into the lifestyle (because it really is) of wood heat, I would say do it. I love it, although I am looking forward to installing a DV LP stove in the future as backup so we can go on vacation during heating season (wood stove is our primary heat, we have no furnace). We scrounge (collect from craigslist ads or roadside) our wood. We bought the first season and that was it. Don't forget you'll have to get something to cut the wood and split it (more $$). IMO, I'd get a good chainsaw and splitter, but there are those that split by hand. It can be messy, but I don't find it that bad. It's also work cutting, splitting and stacking so be prepared to give up some free time. And you will need space for the stacks. Seasoned wood is key to being happy with wood heat.
IF you're NOT into the wood heat lifestyle, look into a DV gas stove. No electric required, still have that radiant heat and look. Can be set on a thermostat, and require just annual cleanings and checks like a furnace. Older ones have very few parts to go wrong (newer ones look to have more electronics and circuitry but I could be wrong). No mess, and no additional work or storage required unless you are on LP and need more tank space. We were on NG so that wasn't an issue for us, both of ours were on t-stats and functioned like a nice looking furnace except it wasn't central (no ductwork) so just like with any non-central option there were some colder spots. I'm looking at possibly buying a stove just like the one we had upstairs at the Old House now (Lopi Berkshire, but it's an older one, maybe 15 or so years old) to put in our sunroom once we rebuild it (hopefully). Still prefer it over a furnace for the most part.
IF you're into the lifestyle (because it really is) of wood heat, I would say do it. I love it, although I am looking forward to installing a DV LP stove in the future as backup so we can go on vacation during heating season (wood stove is our primary heat, we have no furnace). We scrounge (collect from craigslist ads or roadside) our wood. We bought the first season and that was it. Don't forget you'll have to get something to cut the wood and split it (more $$). IMO, I'd get a good chainsaw and splitter, but there are those that split by hand. It can be messy, but I don't find it that bad. It's also work cutting, splitting and stacking so be prepared to give up some free time. And you will need space for the stacks. Seasoned wood is key to being happy with wood heat.
IF you're NOT into the wood heat lifestyle, look into a DV gas stove. No electric required, still have that radiant heat and look. Can be set on a thermostat, and require just annual cleanings and checks like a furnace. Older ones have very few parts to go wrong (newer ones look to have more electronics and circuitry but I could be wrong). No mess, and no additional work or storage required unless you are on LP and need more tank space. We were on NG so that wasn't an issue for us, both of ours were on t-stats and functioned like a nice looking furnace except it wasn't central (no ductwork) so just like with any non-central option there were some colder spots. I'm looking at possibly buying a stove just like the one we had upstairs at the Old House now (Lopi Berkshire, but it's an older one, maybe 15 or so years old) to put in our sunroom once we rebuild it (hopefully). Still prefer it over a furnace for the most part.
So as I continue to read around this forum, I found something that concerns me.
A number of threads are recommending that one inspects the flue and cap monthly at first to make sure it's not seeing a lot of build up. This simply isn't possible for us. Given the weird design of our house, there's no way my wife or I can get up onto the roof to look down the flue. We'd have to hire someone to do it and certainly can't afford to do that monthly.
Is that a deal breaker?
A number of threads are recommending that one inspects the flue and cap monthly at first to make sure it's not seeing a lot of build up. This simply isn't possible for us. Given the weird design of our house, there's no way my wife or I can get up onto the roof to look down the flue. We'd have to hire someone to do it and certainly can't afford to do that monthly.
Is that a deal breaker?
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