What are my options?

[Ratmandu]

Hi
I live in Northern California and I am buying a house that has two fireplaces.
One was dysfunctionally used as an insert type set up which resulted in a lot of creosote.
http://picasaweb.google.com/havnedog/FirePics#5299837503683772322
http://picasaweb.google.com/havnedog/FirePics#5299837553915971490
The other side is relatively unused.
http://picasaweb.google.com/havnedog/FirePics#5299837196901527858
WIth a clean looking metal chimney.
http://picasaweb.google.com/havnedog/FirePics#5299837418599511330
I would like to put an insert in the brick side and leave the stone side for open fires-After cleaning the dirty side do I
A) use the chimney as is with a positive connection from stove to flue?
B) line the chimney (it is an 8") with insulated SS flex liner?
or do I
C) Entirely rebuild the side I intend to use?
I have read a lot of threads on this forum-and it seems that most of chimney retrofitting deals with masonry chimney's I have gotten 2 quotes for lining that come in at around $3000 plus-I haven't yet asked how the lining is intended to be done-but I have recieved a lot of varying opinions that range from all of the above options in terms of making this an efficient wood burning unit. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Scott

 

[begreen]

Hey Scott, welcome. The first thing you need to do with the dirty side is get a qualified chimneysweep in there to remove that black glaze and inspect the flue for signs of a previous chimney fire. It looks like the stove connected on that side was a slammer. If that's the case it explains the creosote accumulations, especially if you add unseasoned wood. This looks like a chimney fire waiting to happen. You'll want to be sure it hasn't already happened a few times in this chimney.

After the sweep has cleaned up, ask about lining the chimney and stove installations.

As for what's best in this situation, we need more information starting with: fireplace opening sizes, house sq ftg., how many floors, what is the goal of the changes? 24/7 heating or safe evening/weekend burning.

 

[Ratmandu]

Hey-thanks for the welcoming-glad to be here-I love burning wood.

The house is a split level-2050 sf-probably about 800 of it down stairs-vaulted ceilings to above.
In the winter time we would be using this as the main source of heat.
The opening on the side we would like to put the insert is 22" deep, 34" wide and 24" high.
I guess my main concern with it is the existing flue and either the use of it and/or lining of it vs. the rebuilding of it.
I have found a nice stove on the immortal craigslist that would require some widening of the hearth-but apparently it would require removing the existing firebox-which supports the existing flue-which would require rebuilding.?
With qualified stoves (used anyway) scarce-and new ones around 2300+-I am having a hard time justifying relining at the tune to 3 large and buying a new stove. The one I have found on c-list is just over 1k-It is a never been used Heat and Glow cbs41-so I am just wondering if rebuilding it would be insane or is the advice I am getting overkill or ??
I think I am suffering from information overload.

 

[begreen]

You definitely don't want to think about tearing apart the fireplace sides to widen it. From the dimensions given it seems like you should be able to install an Englander 13 NCi in there. This is an affordable insert that can be purchased through a local Home Depot (ask for discount) or under the Summers Heat brand at Lowes.
http://www.englanderstoves.com/13-nci.html

Another to consider is a Drolet insert:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200325829_200325829

Or, to increase your options, have you considered putting a freestanding stove on the hearth?

3K for a liner install seems steep. Usually it's more like half that price. Are there confounding factors that make this a particularly challenging installation? As an alternative, have you considering doing this yourself? If yes, the price for the liner and parts should be far less. Depending on the height, it could be more like $600-800. If your roof is not too steep, with good access and you have reasonable mechanical skills and maybe a buddy to help you, this may not be a monumental challenge.

 

[Ratmandu]

In terms of the cost of lining-I am waiting on the cost of the latest bid using simpson insulated liner.
I have considered doing it myself-and still might. The only thing I am concerned about is that all the lining seem to deal with masonry chimneys. This is definitely a pre-fab firebox vented in conventional framing-and all the liner products don't specifically say that that is ok to do-even with the insulation.
Is it fairly typical to reline with stainlees steel inside a prefab (zero clearance?) vent?

 

[Ratmandu]

Oh and thank you for the stove leads-those look like nice stoves for a good price!
Scott

 

[begreen]

Yes, it's actually required to reline a pre-fab metal flue when installing a wood insert. The flue temp requirement is higher. If you search a bit you can find several threads about relining here done by hearth members. Given the current estimates, I would do it myself. You can reline and have a brand new insert for the price of those quotes.

 

[SlyFerret]

How handy are you? I haven't lined a chimney myself, but it can't be as difficult as cutting the holes in my ceiling and roof to install my class-A chimney for my free standing stove.

You could probably pick up the liner and put it in your self and save some money!

There are a number of people here who have talked that project. Hopefully somebody will chime on on what's involved.

-SF

 

[Ratmandu]

I definitely like to save money-and I am pretty handy-I think I am getting closer to want to reline it myself. I have a compouinded problem though.
I had a sweep look at the chimney who says that after looking at it from the top, the cap was on so tight (or something) that caused the inner walls of the chimeny to become contaminated with creosote-and he has recommended not to use the chimeney-at all unless the entire thing is rebuilt.
I haven't had the time to go look at it myself-but these are pretty strong statements.
So now I am thinking of just using the other side, and relining that myself as it appears to be barely used, and in better shape, and putting a gas stove on the brick side. DOes anyone know if putting a direct vent gas stove in the side that has been 'condemmned' by this sweep is a viable alternative to this situation? I have read enough on thes forums to understand that if the inner walls of a two wall prefab chimney are compromised-this is not a good thing for woodburning-but haven't found much about gas burning exhaust.

 

[begreen]

To get a better answer to the contamination question post it in a separate thread with 'creosote contamination in the flue' in the the title. Hopefully that will attract some of the pro sweeps attention.