What does every one here use for humidifiers?
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Halligan
Feeling the Heat
I'm in the same boat as you. I use plug in humidifiers. One in the room with the stove and one in my bedroom.
Clothes on a drying rack all winter long 
. Cheaper than a humidifier, and saves a ton on the electric bill.
. Cheaper than a humidifier, and saves a ton on the electric bill.
Isaac Carlson
Minister of Fire
A humidifier is pretty much useless for us right now. We have a good sized unit and it will only raise it 2%.
Potpourri steamer on the stove . . . Sunbeam humidifier . . . don't use the vent when showering . . . dryer (electric) vented inside (with lint trap).
Fish tank, pot on stove, plug in humidifier in room, don't use fan when showering, rack dry large bath towels whenever possible. The towels usually end up on the ground with cats sleeping on them, so that doesn't happen much anymore.
P38X2
Minister of Fire
Sears console unit. 12 GPD output. Fill it with a 5 gal drywall bucket. Keeps the house between 30-40% humidity @ 70-75F. Enough to keep the wood happy and prevent zapping.
I am currently in the market for a large one for our house. I have a half kettle on the insert, but only get 1.7L of water per day into the air. It does not make a dent in the humidity. I will be following this one for sure.
Paul L
Member
burnt03
Feeling the Heat
Clothes on a drying rack all winter long
Me too, works great
area_man
Burning Hunk
I have two teapots on my stove. The Lodge puts about 4x as much water in the air as the black stove-brand one does. If I find another Lodge at a garage sale I'm onna jump on it.
Dieselhead
Minister of Fire
Essick moistair ma1201. With the extreme dryness of burning the stove for the last 48 hrs, it's still 40% in my house, 2400 sqft.
We use two 1 gallon plug-ins and are sitting at 39% right now. Would like to have it a bit high but it's tough to do. Going through about 4 gallons per day and about 2300 sq.ft. Insert has been going 24 hours a day for about 7 days in a row now.
I have a whole house humidifier hooked up to my heat pump that is hooked up to my Big Jack wood furnace.
Smoke Stack
Member
Woodman37
New Member
We use plug in ones in our bedroom and the kiddos. Makes a difference can tell by the way my nose and throat feel when I wake up in the morning.
MDFisherman
Burning Hunk
http://www.amazon.com/Lasko-1128-Ev...d=1389095144&sr=1-1&keywords=Lasko+Humidifier
I bought this one. Got tired of filling up the little ones and they didn't do much. The lasko one works great
I bought this one. Got tired of filling up the little ones and they didn't do much. The lasko one works great
Bear in mind that a house that is uncomfortably dry inside in winter is leaking far too much outside air. Human occupancy produces a lot of humidity, via breathing, bathing, cooking, plants, fish tanks, etc. All that humidity is being swept out by very dry outside air that leaks in at the low points, like under the sill sitting on the foundation and unsealed wiring penetrations, and forces inside air out at the high points, notably into the upper story walls and attic through other wiring holes, can lights, past improperly installed windows, etc. Operating a woodstove provides another exit path for the incoming leakage. If you are running a humidifier and putting a lot of water into the air daily, ask yourself where that water vapor is going. It's getting into the walls and attic, where it encounters cold surfaces, and much of it condenses and is absorbed by the wood. That in turn can lead to mold and rot.
While a humidifier can provide short term relief from excessive dryness, the correct long-term way to address the problem is by doing a good air sealing job. Much of that is DIY stuff that just takes a lot of time on weekends, etc. There has been a long thread on air sealing over on the Green Room subforum here, with a lot of useful information on the subject. Air sealing works, for both letting the house retain more of the human-produced humidity and for cutting the heat loss, thus giving you more even heating in the house with fewer drafts. For new construction, the right strategy is to make the house as tight as is reasonably possible. You also include mechanical ventilation, perhaps through a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) to provide the right amount of fresh air for the occupants and to keep interior humidity down, even in winter. Air sealing an older house is unlikely to make it so tight as to require mechanical ventilation, but it does go a long way toward avoiding dry air inside.
While a humidifier can provide short term relief from excessive dryness, the correct long-term way to address the problem is by doing a good air sealing job. Much of that is DIY stuff that just takes a lot of time on weekends, etc. There has been a long thread on air sealing over on the Green Room subforum here, with a lot of useful information on the subject. Air sealing works, for both letting the house retain more of the human-produced humidity and for cutting the heat loss, thus giving you more even heating in the house with fewer drafts. For new construction, the right strategy is to make the house as tight as is reasonably possible. You also include mechanical ventilation, perhaps through a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) to provide the right amount of fresh air for the occupants and to keep interior humidity down, even in winter. Air sealing an older house is unlikely to make it so tight as to require mechanical ventilation, but it does go a long way toward avoiding dry air inside.
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