Whitfield Advantage iii fans bog down

[burner632]

I have 1991 Advantage iii that always ran well. Replaced the combustion fan a few years back and new room blower replacement. Both have been cleaned and oiled. When turning on the stove without the auger on and increasing the room blower it bogs down and almost stops. Cycles like this until the adjustment in almost at the lowest setting. It will burn but lazy flame and low heat output because the low fan setting.

Any ideas where to start ?

 

[Ssyko]

Room blower is overheating inside, the windings lower the speed lowers the voltage which lowers the heat generated in the windings. Probably good idea to replace it

 

[Mt Bob]

Ssyco is probably right,he is most of the time,and knows way more than lots of us that help here.But,still could be a control board problem,I probably would check voltages.

 

[burner632]

Thanks for the reply. The blower motor is new. Old motor showed same issue. Is there a post with instructions on checking control board? Can you bypass fan control on the board with another controller?

 

[Mt Bob]

Sorry,do not know ,probably your board has died,Ssyco will chime in.

 

[Ssyko]

You can test the motor itself by hooking it up and plug directly into the outlet, let it run for 10 min if it doesn’t slowdown you probably have a problem with the control board.

 

[burner632]

Thanks again Ssyko/Bob. I also have a Advantage ii insert that has the digital control. Took the control box out of the one I have problems with and plugged it into the insert and reproduced the same fan issue on the insert using the suspect board. Will now take the control board out of the insert and try it on the one in the garage. Do you have any experience with someone who services the control board?

 

[Ssyko]

I have worked on them before and it was not a rewarding experience The board was repaired but I won’t do another . There is a gent on you tube that does them give it a search, I don’t know what he charges though

 

[burner632]

Thanks Ssyko. Just looking at the circuit board gave me a headache !! Wouldn't know where to start. I will check on YouTube and go from there. May also look for a used one for parts.

 

[Stovensen]

It could be the bypass relay that has given up after almost 30 years of use. This relay (located on the circuit board) is delivering neutral to the entire stove during the 30 min warm up cycle.
Electrically, the bypass relay is simply bypassing the low limit switch for 30 mins at start up. So Burner632, try to bypass the low limit switch manually by means of a jumper wire. If the stove runs ok with the low limit switch jumped, we have proof that the bypass relay needs to be replaced.
The bypass relay should be a standard component ( only a few $ ) available in many electronic shops. It's the component with a clear plastic cover in the middle of this picture:

Note: The low limit switch should only be jumped for a short test. Never run the stove for a longer period with the low limit switch jumped.

 

[burner632]

Thanks Stovensen for the lead. I think that is still functional as both auger and combustion fan operate normally on start-up. The convection blower is the problem. I have the old analog control board and the fan control works when turned way down but the fan boggs down/stalls when the speed is turned up but will run when the speed is reduced. New fan bench tested and installed. I have ordered a stand a lone fan controller which I will attempt to use bypassing the control on the board. Any suggestions on how to wire the new fan control ?

 

[Stovensen]

Thanks for the update with more details on the issue and a pic of your control board model.
It was this statement from your first post

It will burn but lazy flame and low heat output because the low fan setting.

that made me conclude that the bypass relay was unstable due to wear. With the additional details you provide, it sounds more like the potmeter controlling the room blower is the culprit. With an ohmmeter it's easy to test, if the potmeter has any drop-outs due to wear, when turned from low to high position. It certainly points in that direction now, based on your description.
The potmeter should be a standard type, but finding the correct replacement may be harder than the bypass relay.
Since you already have ordered the fan controller, it could be the way to go. Your decision.
Your stove is from 1991, and has a wire terminal, right? The newer Whitfield stoves have nylon plugs all over. If it has a wire terminal, it should be very easy to insert the fan controller without having to cut the original wires.

 

[burner632]

Success !!
Purchased a $10 fan control switch from Amazon. Wired the switch to the hot coming in from the plug ( #8 lug) then to the fan motor and left the other motor wire hooked to the collective neutral ( #6 lug). All of the safety controls are still intact. Fan operates normally and shuts off as it should once stove cools.
Drilled a hole in side panel to mount the new fan control next to control panel.

Thanks for all the input/comments.

 

[J7373773]

My stove is doing the exact same thing and I have tried everything. Can you attach a link to the fan control switch you purchased and maybe some pics of how you wired it? I would greatly appreciate it.

 

[Ssyko]

Do a search for “veri-speed electric motor speed control”

 

[burner632]

My stove is doing the exact same thing and I have tried everything. Can you attach a link to the fan control switch you purchased and maybe some pics of how you wired it? I would greatly appreciate it.

Sorry for the delay.

Amazon product ASIN B078Y41C3F
Switch I ordered. Any of the fan control switches should work.

See wiring block above. Wired first side of switch to #8 which is direct to plug. Wired the next side of switch to hot wire side of blower. Left the other blower wire hooked to #3.

Hope this helps.

 

[J7373773]

Thank you so much for the reply. Just wired it up and my fan is still not working properly. If I wire it directly to a plug and use the new fan control switch it works properly but when I wire it the way you have it I have the same result as before ( the fan bogs out). Very frustrating. Any ideas?

 

[Ssyko]

So wire it up to plug into the wall outlet and mount your control on the back of the stove.

 

[J7373773]

If I do that the fan does not switch off when the stove turns off.

 

[Ssyko]

I would have used a magnetic snap disc wired in series to the motor and plug into the wall. Then when the stove cools down it shuts off.

Amazon.com: Funmit Magnetic Thermostat Fan Switch for Fireplace Stove Blower, Circuit On At 120°F and Off At 90°F(2 Pack): Kitchen & Dining

Amazon.com: Funmit Magnetic Thermostat Fan Switch for Fireplace Stove Blower, Circuit On At 120°F and Off At 90°F(2 Pack): Kitchen & Dining

www.google.com

 

[J7373773]

Sorry for not replying I’ve been super busy. That is a great idea. I now have the fan plugged directly into a wall outlet and use the speed control to turn the fan off when the stove is turned off and everything is working good. However I would really like to add the magnetic snap disc and just ordered one.
Last question. Where should I mount the magnetic snap disc?
Thanks again to everyone this has been incredibly helpful.

 

[Ssyko]

On the exhaust blower housing

 

[J7373773]

Great thanks. I’ll let you guys know how it turns out.

 

[J7373773]

Added the magnetic snap disc and the stove is working properly now. Thank you all for the help! My final question is why did this occur in the first place? It seems to me that I just have a faulty control board? The $30 to fix it versus $300+ for a control board is great though. Thanks again.

 

[Ssyko]

it may have a weak component in the combustion circuit that as the board gets warmer it changes properties. capacitors when they age start leaking (allowing DC voltage through) and when they age they turn into a resistor. i could go on and on about all the diff components but probably just glaze over some eyes LOL. if its working to your satisfaction and the safeties are still in the system id say you did good. stay warm