Will a new stove work with my old chimney?

[ylekyote]

Thanks for the product suggestions.

I don't think I'll put a soft flexible liner in my 8" pipe if I have to. Something about putting a dryer hose up my ceiling and blasting 700 degree flue gases up it makes me uneasy, lol. Plus, how am I supposed to brush that sucker, if it's all soft and spongy? And the price for 20' was about $300 or more. But hopefully not an issue for me...hoping the 8" pipe works.

 

[ylekyote]

Ah, that's right. I kind of doubt you are going to find this at the local big box store. Call around first or order online. That "outer liner" is not decorative. That is the Security DL connector pipe design. You want this part 6DLW8.

View attachment 113412

http://www.securitychimneys.com/residential/chimneys/DL/#

So should I keep that red chimney run then? I didn't sell it yet. I thought it was decorative and there was another 2nd layer underneath it. My new stove is black. If I keep it can I just paint it with high temp engine paint?

 

[begreen]

I think they were suggesting stainless liner. But there is no liner needed at all here. You want a screwed together continuous hightemp flue system.

 

[begreen]

This is the danger of having several threads on the same topic. It's too easy to lose continuity. I was thinking of the pipe on the Scan which is Security DL I think. If so, you can reuse it upstairs. Looking at the picture you posted i have to disagree with the statement that is is a proper wall shield. That is not a proper ventilated wall that would be required to reduce clearances for stoves that permit this. The return air grille is also in code violation.

 

[ylekyote]

This thingy here just as good? I notice the 8" portion doesn't look as long for fitting into the 8" pipe. The one you showed was deeper.

SuperVent 6-in Black-Painted Galvanized Steel Adapter
Item #: 353600 | Model #: JSC6ASE
$24

http://www.lowes.com/pd_353600-8517...y+pipe+adapter&facetInfo=&state=R#reviews_tab

 

[ylekyote]

Oh goodness the part you gave me is $138 on woodstovepro.com !! for a 8" piece of steel?!?! These folks are gouging to the max. That is highway robbery.

 

[begreen]

What do you want to do, connect with single wall pipe? The support box is not set up for that. You need to have 18" clearance to combustibles for single wall, including to the ceiling. Please describe what you are planning to do.

 

[brenndatomu]

Dryer hose?! Heck "dryer hose" isn't even recommended for dryer exhaust duty. It supposed to be metal duct type pipe. Anyways, getting off subject here. Two things...
1. Flex liner is WAY more substantial than dryer hose. Heck my 30' long 8" diam. SS "flex" liner, once uncoiled and ready for install, could be picked up in the middle (laying on the garage floor) and barely bend!
2. You wouldn't run the flex liner clear down to your stove unless it is an insert type stove. If it is a free stander, you would flex line the chimney pipe only to the Tee or the connector up by the ceiling, then regular stove pipe down to the stove.

If you can get flex liner for $300, that would likely be a lot less than what you are gonna wrap up in a rigid liner. Like you said though, hopefully you won't have to mess with it!

WOW! Check out that red pipe! I've never seen that before!

I would think you could just hit that with high temp black paint if ya wanna change the color.

 

[ylekyote]

I'm not gonna swap the downstairs pipe. I'm gonna cover it and call it good. I may change my mind later and put a pellet or other stove down there. Just gonna sell the Scan and free up my floor.

How is it in code violation? Is that national code? I live in CO. The guy who made this was a professional builder carpenter.

 

[rideau]

You are not an experienced burner. You want a safe install. Listen to Begreen. Use the same make pipe for your 8 to 6 inch decreaser as you already have, even if it is pricy. It's only a little over $100, since you only need the one piece of pipe. Safety is worth a lot. Don't mix pipe manufacturer.

The stone wall does not look like it stands away from the wall by an inch. I also don't know with a corner install if you have to do venting differently. Ask Begreeen for details about his concern about the wall. And listen to him. People are only trying to keep you safe. The safety specs are not something to ignore. They exist to keep us alive.

BKs are loved by their owners, excellent stoves. However, they are way out of the price range you have indicated you are interest in.

 

[begreen]

The fact that he was a pro carpenter does not make him aware of Fire Code. Check page 9 of the Englander 30NC manual for requirements.

Installation on a Combustible Floor
If the appliance is to be installed on a combustible floor or a combustible floor covering, it must
be installed on a 1” thick non-combustible millboard floor protector or a durable equivalent, with a
“R” factor of at least “1.5” (English units) or equivalent. The pad must be installed beneath the
unit, extending 16” (U.S.) on the side equipped with a door, and 8” on all other sides. The pad
must cover any horizontal chimney connector runs and extend 2” beyond each side.

2. Wall Protection
Please see Illustration 1 for clearances to walls. In some areas local codes may require thirtysix
inches (36”) from a combustible; therefore it is very important that you check with local officials.
If you need to place your unit closer to a combustible wall, some protection will be necessary. If an
approved wall board is used this will reduce your clearance by two thirds (2/3); however, a one
inch (1”) air space has to be between the board and the wall. If you have a ceiling flue hook-up,
you will need protection from the floor to the ceiling if you do not meet the normal clearances. If
you have a wall flue hook up, you will need wall protection at least twelve inches (12”) above the
wall thimble.

Here's a primer on wall clearances.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/stove_wall_clear

 

[ylekyote]

I was gonna put the adapter close to the stove and then keep the 8" pipe from there to the ceiling. I wasn't planning on running 6" pipe to the ceiling from the stove. So the adapter would be just above the stove. At least, until I know I like the stove. Then later I can make it pretty.

The stone wall is 1" away. On the sides the builder placed small stones to partly cover the gap for aesthetics. It's open at the top entirely, and lots of vent spaces on the sides, and it has the grill on the wall. The floor portion is about twice as thick.

I think for now I'm gonna put the Pleasant Hearth 1,200 where the red stove is. I got it for $150 on sale at Lowe's.

I was joking about the dryer hose. It just looks like it. I don't think I'd use it, just saying.

I just know when I fired up the VC and it got 850 degrees that the walls on all sides were fine. I was all anxious and kept feeling the materials around them. I think between the stone thickness, the cement board and the 1" space there is fair coverage from what the chart indicated.

 

[begreen]

This is nothing at all about pretty. It is about safety. The only way you would know if things are "fine" would be to examine the wood behind the wall. If there is no air gap the stone will act more like a conductor than an insulator. That doesn't seem to be of concern so I am done with this thread.

 

[ylekyote]

It's partly open on the sides, and entirely open at the top. Most of the heat rises and goes to the ceiling. No problem. Thanks for the input.

If I can touch the stone veneer and not get burned, and don't see charring, deforming, or smell burning, I imagine the wood studs about 3" away, thru rock, cement board, air, and drywall are not that hot either.

It's worked for 20 years for the previous owner, who obviously abused the crap out of the VC stove on that hearth, so that gives some answers also. Sometimes code is overdone with a lot of safety factors.

Everyone can cool your jets, I meant no offense. Gee weez...