Wood-Burning Inserts vs. Keeping Wood-Burning Fireplace

[Pinedrop]

Our local dealer cannot install a large Lopi NexGen-Fyre until winter 2022, so we are considering:

1) Using our wood-burning fireplace until next spring and then installing an insert
2) Upgrading our current wood-burning fireplace to increase its efficiency

In October 2015, @webfish posted "Upgrading Your Existing Fireplace" at https://www.hearth.com/articles/upgrading-your-existing-fireplace/.
Does anyone have any advice as to:

a) Updated information about how to upgrade our wood-burning fireplace until or unless we install an insert
b) What wood-burning insert you would recommend: a large Lopi NexGen-Fire or another insert

Thank you!

 

[begreen]

The insert should fit the fireplace and be sized to the heating need if the goal is to provide better heating. There are several brands on the market but inventory will be tight for some brands.
If the insert is supplemental for occasional burning then the criteria is not as critical.
If the insert is going to be used 24/7 as a heating source then we need to know:
How large of an area will the fireplace be heating? Is this room open to the rest of the house? How many sq ft total in the house? What are the fireplace dimensions? Does it have to be flush? Are there clearance issues from the mantel trim or shelf?

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Me personally.. Id schedule the install and be done with it.. The sooner you get it installed the more experience you will have and you will be better prepared for the following winter. Pricing and labor has only gone up so the pricing my not be the same neither.. Some people cancle or things happen so your install date may be moved up.. mine was..

 

[Pinedrop]

The insert should fit the fireplace and be sized to the heating need if the goal is to provide better heating. There are several brands on the market but inventory will be tight for some brands.
If the insert is supplemental for occasional burning then the criteria is not as critical.
If the insert is going to be used 24/7 as a heating source then we need to know:
How large of an area will the fireplace be heating? Is this room open to the rest of the house? How many sq ft total in the house? What are the fireplace dimensions? Does it have to be flush? Are there clearance issues from the mantel trim or shelf?

The insert is supplemental.
The fireplace is in the great room with a two-story ceiling open to a loft. My husband would have to measure the great room and loft area.
The heat wouldn't reach part of the house because of the house design. Total SF is 2500.
Fireplace dimensions are:
Front opening width: 42.24" W
Front opening height: 22.75" H
Back width: 32" W
Back height: 15" H
Bottom depth: 19" D
Top depth: 15" D

 

[Pinedrop]

Me personally.. Id schedule the install and be done with it.. The sooner you get it installed the more experience you will have and you will be better prepared for the following winter. Pricing and labor has only gone up so the pricing my not be the same neither.. Some people cancle or things happen so your install date may be moved up.. mine was..

Thanks!

The insert should fit the fireplace and be sized to the heating need if the goal is to provide better heating. There are several brands on the market but inventory will be tight for some brands.
If the insert is supplemental for occasional burning then the criteria is not as critical.
If the insert is going to be used 24/7 as a heating source then we need to know:
How large of an area will the fireplace be heating? Is this room open to the rest of the house? How many sq ft total in the house? What are the fireplace dimensions? Does it have to be flush? Are there clearance issues from the mantel trim or shelf?

Here's a pic of the fireplace.

 

[spudman99]

As I've posted numerous times in other threads, please start to obtain your wood supply now and give it a summers drying time already. Now is almost too late for burning this year unless you already have some stockpiled. Even burning in a regular fireplace, dry wood can help prevent creosote in your chimney so that's not a bad thing.

Your decision as to what insert to install can be varied. I would say take stock of your lifestyle and capabilities. If you intend to burn full time, then realize the commitment and equipment needed to cut, split and stack 5-9 cords of wood. Also the time to load and clean your insert, balanced against family time, job and kids (if any).

Good luck and keep asking questions.

 

[Pinedrop]

As I've posted numerous times in other threads, please start to obtain your wood supply now and give it a summers drying time already. Now is almost too late for burning this year unless you already have some stockpiled. Even burning in a regular fireplace, dry wood can help prevent creosote in your chimney so that's not a bad thing.

Your decision as to what insert to install can be varied. I would say take stock of your lifestyle and capabilities. If you intend to burn full time, then realize the commitment and equipment needed to cut, split and stack 5-9 cords of wood. Also the time to load and clean your insert, balanced against family time, job and kids (if any).

Good luck and keep asking questions.

We have tons of cut wood on our property and will have to take down more trees that are too close to our house for fire safety.

 

[Pinedrop]

The insert is supplemental.
The fireplace is in the great room with a two-story ceiling open to a loft. My husband would have to measure the great room and loft area.
The heat wouldn't reach part of the house because of the house design. Total SF is 2500.
Fireplace dimensions are:
Front opening width: 42.24" W
Front opening height: 22.75" H
Back width: 32" W
Back height: 15" H
Bottom depth: 19" D
Top depth: 15" D

View attachment 296899

The insert should fit the fireplace and be sized to the heating need if the goal is to provide better heating. There are several brands on the market but inventory will be tight for some brands.
If the insert is supplemental for occasional burning then the criteria is not as critical.
If the insert is going to be used 24/7 as a heating source then we need to know:
How large of an area will the fireplace be heating? Is this room open to the rest of the house? How many sq ft total in the house? What are the fireplace dimensions? Does it have to be flush? Are there clearance issues from the mantel trim or shelf?

Plenty of clearance to mantel & adequate hearth for insert.

 

[begreen]

The 22.75" opening height is a limiting factor. For flush inserts inquire and see if the Regency CI2700 or Pacific Energy Neo 2.5 are available for installation by fall. The Osburn Matrix 1900 would also fit.

 

[lsiegel502]

Hey there @Pinedrop I'm in the same boat!

My wife and I bought an 1850's farmhouse in upstate NY with 2 open masonry fireplaces [one at the bottom floor of the 3 story Old house, the other is in a ground floor addition kitchen room built in 1970's. both fireplaces are in good working order and completely inside the house, as-in, not exposed to the outside]

I initially came to Hearth.com to do research on a wood burning insert for the "old house" but I slowed down on the idea for a few reasons: 1) don't have a seasoned wood stockpile yet, 2) still researching the best brands, 3) the install costs, 4) the more I read the more I'm thinking of just installing a big old school freestanding stove in basement!

So for now, I was going to try get our fireplaces to work better by installing ceramic glass doors w/ damper and a fireback. Its clear from many sources that the glass doors help once the fire is low/dead but my question is wether anyone recommends keeping them closed while the fire is burning hot for better efficiency and longer burn times? ...I ask because I did a draft test and can clearly see that lots of air from other parts of the house get pulled into the room with the fire so i'm definitely throwing money away when I use it... It's crazy, the air shifts the second I open the flue and it accelerates as the fire gets hotter and hotter!

Unless I learn otherwise, it seems I'm truly better off not using them at all unless I can burn with glass doors closed?

Looking forward to hearing what experienced people think!
Hope this helps you too @Pinedrop !

 

[bholler]

Hey there @Pinedrop I'm in the same boat!

My wife and I bought an 1850's farmhouse in upstate NY with 2 open masonry fireplaces [one at the bottom floor of the 3 story Old house, the other is in a ground floor addition kitchen room built in 1970's. both fireplaces are in good working order and completely inside the house, as-in, not exposed to the outside]

I initially came to Hearth.com to do research on a wood burning insert for the "old house" but I slowed down on the idea for a few reasons: 1) don't have a seasoned wood stockpile yet, 2) still researching the best brands, 3) the install costs, 4) the more I read the more I'm thinking of just installing a big old school freestanding stove in basement!

So for now, I was going to try get our fireplaces to work better by installing ceramic glass doors w/ damper and a fireback. Its clear from many sources that the glass doors help once the fire is low/dead but my question is wether anyone recommends keeping them closed while the fire is burning hot for better efficiency and longer burn times? ...I ask because I did a draft test and can clearly see that lots of air from other parts of the house get pulled into the room with the fire so i'm definitely throwing money away when I use it... It's crazy, the air shifts the second I open the flue and it accelerates as the fire gets hotter and hotter!

Unless I learn otherwise, it seems I'm truly better off not using them at all unless I can burn with glass doors closed?

Looking forward to hearing what experienced people think!
Hope this helps you too @Pinedrop !

Even with glass doors closed you will probably be better off not burning them

 

[Woodsplitter67]

2xs what he said

 

[EbS-P]

Hey there @Pinedrop I'm in the same boat!

My wife and I bought an 1850's farmhouse in upstate NY with 2 open masonry fireplaces [one at the bottom floor of the 3 story Old house, the other is in a ground floor addition kitchen room built in 1970's. both fireplaces are in good working order and completely inside the house, as-in, not exposed to the outside]

I initially came to Hearth.com to do research on a wood burning insert for the "old house" but I slowed down on the idea for a few reasons: 1) don't have a seasoned wood stockpile yet, 2) still researching the best brands, 3) the install costs, 4) the more I read the more I'm thinking of just installing a big old school freestanding stove in basement!

So for now, I was going to try get our fireplaces to work better by installing ceramic glass doors w/ damper and a fireback. Its clear from many sources that the glass doors help once the fire is low/dead but my question is wether anyone recommends keeping them closed while the fire is burning hot for better efficiency and longer burn times? ...I ask because I did a draft test and can clearly see that lots of air from other parts of the house get pulled into the room with the fire so i'm definitely throwing money away when I use it... It's crazy, the air shifts the second I open the flue and it accelerates as the fire gets hotter and hotter!

Unless I learn otherwise, it seems I'm truly better off not using them at all unless I can burn with glass doors closed?

Looking forward to hearing what experienced people think!
Hope this helps you too @Pinedrop !

Doors are not cheap. I see no reason to buy them then get an insert. Read up on the doors you are looking at. Some don’t allow burning with them closed. Fireplaces are for looks doors included.