Wood Stove Doesn't Seem to Heat Well Enough

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Where is the fan in that pic?

All that brick will suck up a TON of heat. Very much especially if that brick is connected to the outdoors.

As others have mentioned - if that pipe temp is really the surface temp of double wall pipe as you say, you are burning waaaay hot. Typically single wall internal temps will be way more, maybe double, than what surface temp is. Double wall would be waaay more again. But maybe there is something still uncertain here?

Square footage heating ratings for stoves are most always pretty hokey. But in this case, the stove is behind an extra 8 ball with what is being asked of it and how it was installed.

I will add that I think pulling the ceiling insulation did help. But no doubt getting more heat up there could be improved on somehow. Usually with strategically placed fan plus maybe a couple of floor vents. Vents on their own should not increase noise all that much - just don't put them where the kids sleep if noise is really a big issue.

Also, 5-6 cords for the whole winter is not really THAT bad.
 
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I need pictures at this point because wires are getting crossed somewhere.
 
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5-6 full cords per winter to heat 4000 square feet in Pennsylvania seems extremely reasonable to me unless the place is staggeringly well insulated.
 
Whoa just saw this. I’m wondering about the 600 f temp measurement on double wall pipe. Is that even possible? I can get a reading of 600 on my single wall pipe with magnetic thermometer pretty easily (as discussed on another thread) if I don’t shut down the air and and close the damper pretty quickly, but that is single wall.

If that is, in fact, the measurement on double wall pipe that means a whole ton of heat is being lost up the flue


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Yes, like what would double-wall pipe be doing in a fireplace installation? Might just be a mistake in understanding terminology??
 
Scanned the thread and as others have said:

1. Having the stove in the basement will not be enough to heat the whole house, especially a house this large.
2. Because the stove is tucked into the masonry the heat coming from the stove isn't making it into the room, its being sucked into the masonry.
3. It sounds you are running it full throttle most of the time to compensate for the poor location, resulting in high wood use and not taking advantage of the secondaries for a more efficient burn (less wood use per unit of heat).

Here's where I'd go from here:

1. Consult a chimney sweep/installer on what your options are for installing a stove upstairs.
2. Also ask them about a rear vent stove that can be installed downstairs, pushing the stove into the room where the heat is needed.
3. Think about a long term game plan - do you intend to stay in this house for a while?

I can sense the frustration and I'd be frustrated as well. Lots of effort and wood for not enough heat, but it is a solvable problem.
 
Add 4) The Woodpro is too small.

One option not discussed would be to take the stove out of the fireplace, cut in a thimble into the chimney above the damper and smokeshelf. Then add a tee to the liner and run the snout through the thimble to tie into the stove pipe. An extension could be attached to the tee and capped in the fireplace for easier cleaning. This way the stove could sit in front of the fireplace and fully in the room. I'd still go for a bigger heater at that point to maximize gains. Once it is out in the open a radiant stove like the Drolet Austral II would work.
 
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If it was me. I'd scrap this whole plan. I'd keep the chimney and liner, install a wood furnace and duct work in the basement, hook the chimney up to a new crock in the fireplace wall
 
Wood seasoned for 12+ years would be nice for a campfire but maybe not ideal to get the results you are looking for.
Why not? It should be great.
 
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There have been allot of ideas thrown around but first and formost we need to help the op get this stove running correctly. No the setup is not ideal but simply saying that doesnt help right now. Yes the ultimate solution may be moving this stove upstars and getting a rear vent for that location so it isnt burried in the fireplace. But right now they need to make the most of what they have.
 
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There have been allot of ideas thrown around but first and formost we need to help the op get this stove running correctly. No the setup is not ideal but simply saying that doesnt help right now. Yes the ultimate solution may be moving this stove upstars and getting a rear vent for that location so it isnt burried in the fireplace. But right now they need to make the most of what they have.

That should start with clarification of info presented. I think there has been some contradictions.
 
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A single woodstove is never going to heat 4000 square feet unless there's like 4 foot thick insulated walls. Never mind one that's stuffed inside a fireplace in the basement. Sure we can help optimize what they have but reality is they'll never come close to achieving what they're trying to do. Best bet is to run the stove at a reasonable level of efficiency and be happy about any break in the heating bill. Then put a stove and chimney in both levels.
 
A single woodstove is never going to heat 4000 square feet unless there's like 4 foot thick insulated walls. Never mind one that's stuffed inside a fireplace in the basement. Sure we can help optimize what they have but reality is they'll never come close to achieving what they're trying to do. Best bet is to run the stove at a reasonable level of efficiency and be happy about any break in the heating bill. Then put a stove and chimney in both levels.

There are people here heating that much space with a single stove. But they are running much larger stoves that use 8" vents like the bk king or the 5100. I agree i doubt they will be able to heat that much space with that stove. But bombarding them with posts saying it will never work is of no help
 
Whoa just saw this. I’m wondering about the 600 f temp measurement on double wall pipe. Is that even possible? I can get a reading of 600 on my single wall pipe with magnetic thermometer pretty easily (as discussed on another thread) if I don’t shut down the air and and close the damper pretty quickly, but that is single wall.

If that is, in fact, the measurement on double wall pipe that means a whole ton of heat is being lost up the flue.

4cab1c2658f8955687730df5f2b05823.jpg

The wife actually had it here the other day while I was out. The whole house smelled like burning metal. Scared the chit out of me!
 
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Yeah, 1 cord in 2 months is not excessive either...
 
View attachment 234255

The wife actually had it here the other day while I was out. The whole house smelled like burning metal. Scared the chit out of me!



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Ok measuring at that spot your temps are going to be high that is almost like measuring stovetop temp. Pipe temp should be measured 18" up the pipe which you cant do. I would say in that pic it is definitely to hot but 600 may not be. Try shutting it back more and see if it gives you more heat in the house.
 
If your in PA I would be looking for a coal stove if your in coal country. They usually put out much more Btus than a wood stove and coal can be had pretty cheap
 
If your in PA I would be looking for a coal stove if your in coal country. They usually put out much more Btus than a wood stove and coal can be had pretty cheap
They are also really dirty and some people including me really dont like the smell.
 
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View attachment 234255

The wife actually had it here the other day while I was out. The whole house smelled like burning metal. Scared the chit out of me!



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Damn! That must have been a scary scene to come home to. That’s one of my fears letting my wife run the stove as she tends to walk away and forget about things. I’ve tried to have her set timers but she forgets to set the timers haha.


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Here’s some pictures.
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The fire is where it’s at with the intake about 1/4” out.
 
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