2016-17 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

[webby3650]

Thanks for the additional info. and clarification.

Side shields are an option on the parlor and classic models, for corner installs.

 

[Deeje]

Do you have any window frames or electrical boxes that arent leaking cold air? the degree loss per hour you are describing for your insulation envelope is epic.

There's a lot of air moving through the windows, etc. I addressed many of the leaks last year during a particularly windy couple days. I have a laser thermometer on the way, so hopefully that'll help me find any additional cold spots.

There's a fixed BTU count in 2.5 cu ft of ash wood. There are only three differences between your old Buck and your new Ashford, in this regard:

1. The Ashford puts a larger percentage of those BTUs into your house, and less up the chimney.

2. The Ashford allows you to but at a very low rate, without gunning up your chimney.

3. The Buck may have been able to extract the BTUs from your load of ash at a slightly higher rate, 4 hours, versus the Ashford's 5 hours.

I'd think the difference in efficiency between the stoves would be enough to make up for the 20% difference in burn times, unless your Buck had a much larger firebox, in which case the difference in burn rate was even greater.

Bottom line, 1800 sq ft should be a slam dunk for any BK 30 stove. Your house may lose heat faster than mine! What's the construction?

Good info, thanks. I have noticed the flue temps are very low with this stove. Now that outside temps are in the 20-30s F, the stove is doing better. It had a hard time at 17 F the other day when I posted.

The house loses heat like no other I've lived in. I'm renting it, so not terribly interested in throwing money at insulating the attic or anything major like that. It's a Victorian house that sits on a 3' crawlspace. All wood siding. You can tell the house was added on to over its 100+ years, as the layout makes no sense. The only spot I could fit a stove was at one end, so there's the added challenge of moving heat around.

Until you can get some of the air leaks sealed, the blower will help replace the warm air being sucked out of the house. The BK guys say you want to match blower speed to the thermostat setting. In our neck of the woods, winters aren't too bad and once you tighten up the envelope, that stove should handle your place no problem. Have you got insulation in the walls? I had the mighty Buck 91 at my MIL's house but it had its hands full with no wall insulation, stove at one end of the house instead of central to the layout and 9.5' ceilings. Heating power only goes so far...
I assume you are talking White Ash, which is the only Ash I've seen here so far. I've only been into species ID for about 5 yrs. though. It's good heating wood, on par with Red Oak and hard (Sugar) Maple. I have a moisture meter but after a while you get a feel for how dry it is by how heavy the splits are. It usually has lower moisture when cut than many other woods, so will be drier sooner than say Red Oak. Still, I like to have Ash split and stacked

I believe the house has blown in paper insulation. Plaster interior. I feel you MIL's pain, as we have 12' ceilings and also have the stove at one end. The house is built very long and narrow, probably 25' wide by 70' long or so. To make matters worse there isn't a hallway going through the house that could transport heat... you actually have to walk between enclosed rooms to get from one side to the other. Genius. It has several (now unusable) fireplaces, so I guess it didn't really matter to the original owners.

You're probably right about it being white ash. And yes, it does have a low moisture content even when it's green. Old timers say you can drag an ash tree straight from the field to the stove. I'll do some tests on some new cuts next year to see how ready it is to burn. I'd say seasoning it for one summer could be enough.

 

[rwhite]

Anyone's glass bubled on the lower sides? I usually use a razor as well to clean off my glass, but it doesn't work as well where it's bumpy. Bought it like that. Didnt notice it till i got home. Any idea what new glass runs?

So I've read about this issue in a few threads. Did anyone ever find a solution? I purchased this stove used but there is no warping or any sign of over fire. The door passed the bill test. But there is still the "bubbling " on the lower corners of the glass. I actually can't tell if it's bubbled or etched but you certainly can't scrape it off with a razor. No other cleaning method has worked either. It is original glass with blaze king etched in the lower corners.

Just for clarification: it's not bubbled in the sense of large bubbles, more like it just has a rough texture.

 

[rwhite]

So I've read about this issue in a few threads. Did anyone ever find a solution? I purchased this stove used but there is no warping or any sign of over fire. The door passed the bill test. But there is still the "bubbling " on the lower corners of the glass. I actually can't tell if it's bubbled or etched but you certainly can't scrape it off with a razor. No other cleaning method has worked either. It is original glass with blaze king etched in the lower corners.

Just for clarification: it's not bubbled in the sense of large bubbles, more like it just has a rough texture.

This link may give some indication as to why:
https://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove-glass-discolouration.html

Read a few other articles which slide to burning wet wood, condensation on glass and lack of cleaning lead to etching which is irreversible.

 

[Highbeam]

So I've read about this issue in a few threads. Did anyone ever find a solution? I purchased this stove used but there is no warping or any sign of over fire. The door passed the bill test. But there is still the "bubbling " on the lower corners of the glass. I actually can't tell if it's bubbled or etched but you certainly can't scrape it off with a razor. No other cleaning method has worked either. It is original glass with blaze king etched in the lower corners.

Just for clarification: it's not bubbled in the sense of large bubbles, more like it just has a rough texture.

My glass has some fine, "poc marks" or little etch dots in the area that typically is coated with creosote in a BK. The lower corners. It's not so bad as to be distracting but I notice it when I'm cleaning the glass. Can't even feel them with my fingers or hear them when I slide the blade across.

 

[rwhite]

My glass has some fine, "poc marks" or little etch dots in the area that typically is coated with creosote in a BK. The lower corners. It's not so bad as to be distracting but I notice it when I'm cleaning the glass. Can't even feel them with my fingers or hear them when I slide the blade across.

Mine just looks a bit cloudy, kind of like shower glass, in the corners. You can feel the roughness when you scrape it. Certainly I'm not ocd enough to replace it. It may become unnoticeable when burning. I have yet to get the thing hooked up. Need the darn snow off the roof!

 

[Highbeam]

Need the darn snow off the roof!

I'm sending some cold your way!

 

[rwhite]

I'm sending some cold your way!

We've only had low 20s which is rather tropical. But we've gotten our yearly allotment of snow in the past 3 weeks. 2' high and risin.

 

[Ashful]

The BK owners on hearth dot com, converting easterners to burning softwood one scientist at a time.

Imagine yourself in a field surrounded by more oak than you can split in a year. Now tell me you're going to use a few of those precious hours away from this pile or oak to go split some pine or fir.

Ain't gonna happen.

 

[Ashful]

Firebox thickness in the BKs?

Who cares? I haven't seen mass reporting of failing fireboxes.

 

[rwhite]

Who cares? I haven't seen mass reporting of failing fireboxes.

Idk but it seems like it goes all the way from the outside to the inside.

 

[kf6hap]

Yes, you can crash a car 2 seconds after driving it off the sales lot but has a single BK ever actually worn out? With reasonable care these stoves should last 50+ years, just my HVAC tech "educated" guess. Heat exchanger cracks are almost always from abuse.

 

[Tar12]

Who cares? I haven't seen mass reporting of failing fireboxes.

Is this how you treat new members who ask reasonable and legimate questions?It may be irrelevant to you but I care...as I had no idea. I joined this forum to get information to make a informed decision as I have not looked at or touched a wood stove in over 25 years...I didn't know these cat stoves even existed 4 weeks ago.Aside from that these stoves are not cheap and I am not independently wealthy so this is a major decision for me and I would like all of the information I can get prior to making a purchasing decision.

 

[kf6hap]

Ask away Tar, we will respond the best we can.

 

[Shayne]

Imagine yourself in a field surrounded by more oak than you can split in a year. Now tell me you're going to use a few of those precious hours away from this pile or oak to go split some pine or fir.

Ain't gonna happen.

I think they may have black spruce at that latitude of the globe and the growth seasons are short and climate harsh, therefore the growth of softwood is no where near the same as the softwood you would get at your latitude. But I hear you, burn birch, pine and spruce instead of my maple, ya like that is gonna happen. We live in hardwood country and you just need to check BTU's of different types of wood to make that decision. I will go with the hardwood any day not only for the heat but the beauty of the burn.

Regards

 

[Tar12]

Ask away Tar, we will respond the best we can.

Thank you sir... I find the concept of these cat stoves extremely interesting considering my last stove was a fire breathing dragon of yester year! I am looking forwards to getting one!

 

[kf6hap]

How and where the stove is placed is very important. Middle of the house for more even heat distribution. Middle of a room to place the flue so it will mostly be in a protected attic. Draw is very important. It makes for a shorter, more accessible and better looking flue too. The "Little Giant" ladder works well on roofs as it will accommodate the pitch angle of most roofs.

You being a previous wood heater will really appreciate the operation of any of the BK cat stoves. These stoves might be a little more costly than others but are well worth it. The operation of the cat is wonderful as it is a true integral part of the stove's combustion process. Light-off can easily and quickly be attained. Once lit it stays lit. I could go on and on about my Ashford.

 

[Tar12]

How and where the stove is placed is very important. Middle of the house for more even heat distribution. Middle of a room to place the flue so it will mostly be in a protected attic. Draw is very important. It makes for a shorter, more accessible and better looking flue too. The "Little Giant" ladder works well on roofs as it will accommodate the pitch angle of most roofs.

You being a previous wood heater will really appreciate the operation of any of the BK cat stoves. These stoves might be a little more costly than others but are well worth it. The operation of the cat is wonderful as it is a true integral part of the stove's combustion process. Light-off can easily and quickly be attained. Once lit it stays lit. I could go on and on about my Ashford.

It will be placed in the center of my home but not in the center of the room as this is not possible. The flue will be run straight up with no twists and turns. A 15 ft chimney height is going to leave a substantial amount of pipe rising upward.

 

[kf6hap]

What stove are you looking at?

 

[Tar12]

What stove are you looking at?

A BK 30 series or the Ideal Steel Hybrid

 

[Ashful]

Is this how you treat new members who ask reasonable and legimate questions?It may be irrelevant to you but I care...as I had no idea. I joined this forum to get information to make a informed decision as I have not looked at or touched a wood stove in over 25 years...I didn't know these cat stoves even existed 4 weeks ago.Aside from that these stoves are not cheap and I am not independently wealthy so this is a major decision for me and I would like all of the information I can get prior to making a purchasing decision.

I apologize that my answer didn't come off as it was intended. I assure you I had no intent of mistreating you.

There has been much discussion and trolling on the subject of BK firebox thickness, with at least a few attempts to imply they're somehow inferior, because many cheaper stoves use thicker steel in their firebox construction. But, the bottom line is that despite a large fraction of the folks on this forum using BKs to heat their home, you will be hard pressed to find cases of firebox failure under normal use in these stoves.

The overwhelming majority (like damn near 100%) of firebox failures reported on this forum are cemented cast stoves, not welded steel boxes.

 

[kf6hap]

Well, I am biased towards BKs, but a BK will give a longer burn time. To me this means they are more wood efficient and can give a much lower burn rate. Lower flue temps mean the burnt gasses gave up more heat to the house. I dont' believe any other manufacturer's "thermostat" is as effective as a BK. Yes, I know what the stated efficiency ratings might suggest otherwise when comparing stoves but think of this: A stove that is burning for 25 hours is burning very very slowly. The hot combustion gasses are moving very slowly which means residency time is very long too. They will naturally just give up more heat to the house, not the flue. All done with excellent grams of particulates per hour ratings. The flue stays clean.

 

[volunbeer]

How and where the stove is placed is very important. Middle of the house for more even heat distribution. Middle of a room to place the flue so it will mostly be in a protected attic. Draw is very important. It makes for a shorter, more accessible and better looking flue too. The "Little Giant" ladder works well on roofs as it will accommodate the pitch angle of most roofs.

You being a previous wood heater will really appreciate the operation of any of the BK cat stoves. These stoves might be a little more costly than others but are well worth it. The operation of the cat is wonderful as it is a true integral part of the stove's combustion process. Light-off can easily and quickly be attained. Once lit it stays lit. I could go on and on about my Ashford.

This is excellent advice on placement. I was determined to put the King we just installed in the basement, but rethought that plan after reading many comments like this one here. We put it in the den on the middle floor of our 3 story and it has really been perfect. A little warm in the den, but so far it has kept the upper two floors where we spend 95% of our time above 70. I don't think I would have been nearly as pleased with it in the basement as heat transfer would have been hampered by layout of the house.

It is about to get a workout as it will be zero here tonight and we will be in single digits a fair amount the next week. I am finally learning to turn it down and it is still cruising along with the house at 72. That is with a full load of fir with one split of tamarack and one of pine 10 hours ago - my best load so far as I am still learning the stove and it easily has another 2 hours in it and there will still be enough coals to easily ignite the next load. I don't know much about other brands, but we are very impressed with this stove so far and would only be happier if it would stack wood and load by itself!

 

[Tar12]

I apologize that my answer didn't come off as it was intended. I assure you I had no intent of mistreating you.

There has been much discussion and trolling on the subject of BK firebox thickness, with at least a few attempts to imply they're somehow inferior, because many cheaper stoves use thicker steel in their firebox construction. But, the bottom line is that despite a large fraction of the folks on this forum using BKs to heat their home, you will be hard pressed to find cases of firebox failure under normal use in these stoves.

The overwhelming majority (like damn near 100%) of firebox failures reported on this forum are cemented cast stoves, not welded steel boxes.

This is the type of info I am looking for!! No trolling here...I am just trying to get my head wrapped around everything to make a informed decision. I am having the chimney installed in 2 weeks and getting closer to pulling the trigger! I am going on vacation next week and I am running over to the BK dealer closest to me and check them out first hand.

 

[kf6hap]

If possible, go higher than the minimum on the flue. It helps the draw and improves operation. Don't forget the required supports to prevent wind damage. Consider an outside air kit. Outside air can prevent possible drafts, help conserve heat and prevent possible smoke spillage if the kitchen exhaust is turned on.

The fan kit can be added later, if you want.