2016-17 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

[rdust]

This is the type of info I am looking for!! No trolling here...I am just trying to get my head wrapped around everything to make a informed decision. I am having the chimney installed in 2 weeks and getting closer to pulling the trigger! I am going on vacation next week and I am running over to the BK dealer closest to me and check them out first hand.

Buy a BK and never look back. Heating with a BK stove is rather easy and boring.(with a proper chimney and good wood) My Lopi Endeavor was and adventure with every load, a BK is easy and repeatable.

On my 6th season with my Princess and I still consider her that.

 

[Poindexter]

The low throttle long burn capability of the bk line is a lovely thing. I use it myself to achieve overnight burns even in really cold weather.

In really really cold weather when i am home i compmetely comfortable loading the thing every 4 to 6 hours keeping the thermostat on high for DAYS.

@Tar12 , however thick the firebox wall is, its thick enough. when you have multiple cords of wood dried to 11%mc or less drop a pm to @BKVP for some tweaks to the operation described in the manual. if your meter is showing 12%mc to 22%mc you arent going to hurt the stove with the bypass closed.

 

[Ashful]

@Tar12, I know you said you're not interested in 40 hour burn times, but then said you're looking for day to day consistency. I'd urge you to re-think this, as that super-low burn rate capability is exactly what permits you to use this heater over a much wider range of outdoor temperatures, than just about any other stove. I used to have to wait until it was below outside to burn my old stove in the newer (ca.1994) wing of my house, lest I'd overheat the space. Now, I can burn my BK on days when the daytime temperature is close to 60F, without any problems. I load it in the evening, burn it overnight at a higher rate, turn it down to "trickle" for the warm day, and back up (still on the same load) the following evening. You won't be doing that with any other brand.

That's fun, but to me the biggest advantage is the way the thermostat keeps output much more constant over the burn cycle. All wood stoves burn hot in the first few hours, and then taper off over a period almost twice as long as that initial hot burn. If you're there to raise the air control as it tapers off, then you can maintain more constant temperature, but I'm not retired or home all day. The BK thermostat does this for me automatically. So instead of having the house warm while I'm asleep or at work, just to have it cool off before I get home, the BK is there raising the air to keep temps up for my arrival home.

Just my thoughts from someone who owns two BK's, and previously three Jotul's.

 

[lsucet]

@Tar12, I know you said you're not interested in 40 hour burn times, but then said you're looking for day to day consistency. I'd urge you to re-think this, as that super-low burn rate capability is exactly what permits you to use this heater over a much wider range of outdoor temperatures, than just about any other stove. I used to have to wait until it was below outside to burn my old stove in the newer (ca.1994) wing of my house, lest I'd overheat the space. Now, I can burn my BK on days when the daytime temperature is close to 60F, without any problems. I load it in the evening, burn it overnight at a higher rate, turn it down to "trickle" for the warm day, and back up (still on the same load) the following evening. You won't be doing that with any other brand.

That's fun, but to me the biggest advantage is the way the thermostat keeps output much more constant over the burn cycle. All wood stoves burn hot in the first few hours, and then taper off over a period almost twice as long as that initial hot burn. If you're there to raise the air control as it tapers off, then you can maintain more constant temperature, but I'm not retired or home all day. The BK thermostat does this for me automatically. So instead of having the house warm while I'm asleep or at work, just to have it cool off before I get home, the BK is there raising the air to keep temps up for my arrival home.

Just my thoughts from someone who owns two BK's, and previously three Jotul's.

I don't know enough English language to explain that well, lol but for sure +2 on that.

 

[Tar12]

Thanks for the input guys! It is appreciated! I have a few questions regarding moisture meters...where to get one? Who makes a quality tester ? and if I am to understand correctly you resplit the wood you are testing and test the center of the split for correct moisture content?

 

[Shayne]

The low throttle long burn capability of the bk line is a lovely thing. I use it myself to achieve overnight burns even in really cold weather.

In really really cold weather when i am home i compmetely comfortable loading the thing every 4 to 6 hours keeping the thermostat on high for DAYS.

If I would run my thermostat at 6 o'clock the catalytic thermometer would be well past the active zone, @ 4 o'clock it is just at the top of the active range on a full load. At 4 o'clock I could never burn a load in 4 to 6 hours. I would like to torque mine but constantly watch this gauge and tune it down if it gets to the top of the active range. Do you run past the catalytic thermometer active zone and can you hurt the cat by running it above the active range? What is the safety factor on these gauges?

Regards

 

[kf6hap]

Just look at the ruler flat graph in the brochure. Now that is a true plot of consistency.

http://www.blazeking.com/EN/wood-king.html

See the green line.

 

[kf6hap]

The cat thermometer will may run above the high line on the dial but as the cat ages, during the first year of operation, it will steady out. BKVP

They are quite accurate.

 

[BKVP]

Thanks for the input guys! It is appreciated! I have a few questions regarding moisture meters...where to get one? Who makes a quality tester ? and if I am to understand correctly you resplit the wood you are testing and test the center of the split for correct moisture content?

Remember, moisture meters use electrical current to measure moisture. You must let your selected test piece come to room temperature and then split and measure. Usually sitting in a mud room or something over night will do the trick.

 

[kf6hap]

This works for me:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-...ter-with-LED-Bar-Graph-Display-MM1E/100651810

 

[tarzan]

With my new (overactive) cat I see the cat thermometer needle on the outside of the active range from time to time. Worth noting FWIW, I never seen this with the ceramic cat.

I don't worry about it any more. I just run the stove the way I need to run the stove to heat my home and if the cat lasts two years or ten I'm just going to get another and keep going. The stove is absolutely that good!

When you look at new BK's in a stove shop you'll notice that the only numbers left on them to cause worry is the price tag!

 

[kf6hap]

I don't know if both types go beyond the dial limits but the steel car has more surface area and tends to be more active. Condar says it will become active 100F lower than the ceramic jobs. Are they better? Lower and faster light off is nice but the way I run my stove that makes no difference. Resistance to thermal shock is probably the best reason to switch over at replacement time. Any cat will be ruined with a leaky door gasket or burning garbage or contaminated wood.

Golden Rule for cat burners:

BKVP:
"Get the most from your stove! Burn dry wood, keep your chimney clean and in the event it is a catalytic model, keep your door-gasket seal adjusted nice and tight. Don't burn trash in any stove, there is a proper way to deal with refuse."

 

[Highbeam]

A BK 30 series or the Ideal Steel Hybrid

Those are excellent choices. Those are at the top of my list too if my princess had to be replaced. Both have significantly longer burn times than anything from any other manufacturer with a wide range of available output, high efficiency, 6" flues, and low emissions. The IS is pretty dang ugly. So is the princess and the Chinook. IMO, the ashford and scirocco are the only "normal" looking options.

The chimney height of 15' is unique to BK and is pretty excessive. I only have 12' and the extra 3' required would mean stupid looking roof braces and a space ship looking thing on my roof. Know that you need roof supports after you exceed 5' of pipe above the roof line and then another set of braces once you hit 10'.

 

[Highbeam]

I was sitting outside watching last night's super moon and the meteor shower for a couple of hours. It was 25 degrees and both of my stoves were at medium output burning nice and clean. With the moon and still air I could see that both of them had visible flue emissions of white steam that rose away 40 feet before dissipating. So when your cat is active and munching, or your non-cat is fully up to temp, both with dry wood, expect that you will see what looks like white smoke.

 

[kf6hap]

One product of catalytic combustion is steam so water vapor is always going up the flue. After about ~45 minutes a distinct reduction in "white smoke" occurs as the wood's contained moisture content is largely gone. Red-hot wood has a very low MC. The odd thing is you can't see the "white smoke" when looking into the chamber. This just shows the cat is producing steam.

 

[Highbeam]

One product of catalytic combustion is steam so water vapor is always going up the flue. After about ~45 minutes a distinct reduction in "white smoke" occurs as the wood's contained moisture content is largely gone. Red-hot wood has a very low MC. The odd thing is you can't see the "white smoke" when looking into the chamber. This just shows the cat is producing steam.

Not all water vapor is visible. Visible steam is relatively cold water vapor with the water actually falling out into droplets. There is more water vapor produced at the start of a fuel load because the fuel is wetter, but also because the thermostat is open and trying to increase the temperature of the stove so the burn rate is up. Lastly, more of it is visible since during warm up because it is colder. I notice a reduction in steam at startup after the stat starts to close but the visible emissions start and stop throughout the burn. When outdoor conditions are right, the visible steam keeps on chooching for 6 or more hours.

I wouldn't say that the cat is producing anything. It is simply supporting a reaction. The combustion of wood fuel releases water.

 

[Poindexter]

If I would run my thermostat at 6 o'clock the catalytic thermometer would be well past the active zone, @ 4 o'clock it is just at the top of the active range on a full load. At 4 o'clock I could never burn a load in 4 to 6 hours. I would like to torque mine but constantly watch this gauge and tune it down if it gets to the top of the active range. Do you run past the catalytic thermometer active zone and can you hurt the cat by running it above the active range? What is the safety factor on these gauges?

Regards

I think I only know part of the answer.

When I said full throttle I meant top of the swoosh, highest numbered position on the Tstat, NOT up past the top onto the hard stop.

Second, i think the fan kit probably does cool the coil on the cat probe a leetle tiny bit, but running the fan kit flat out pulls a LOT of heat off the stove, i can feel it and measure it in my back bedrooms far away from the stove room.

So top of the swoosh Tstat, fan kit wide open, my cat probe needle stays at or near the top of the active range until the wood gas is out of the load and the coals are starting to burn down.

Do you have a convection deck fan kit on your stove Shayne?

 

[pvfjr]

If I may derail things a bit, I think my Ashford is developing a bit of an issue. I'm wondering if anyone else is developing this issue as well.

The roller catch that the latch hooks onto is starting to look mangled. It also doesn't look like it was wide enough to entirely cover the pin it's mounted on. I think the latch has been pushing it to the side, and only hooking on to one edge of the roller, rather than catching the bulk of it. As a result, latching the door is starting to not feel very smooth. Has anyone else experienced this? Is your roller too narrow, or is it just me?

 

[BKVP]

If I may derail things a bit, I think my Ashford is developing a bit of an issue. I'm wondering if anyone else is developing this issue as well.

The roller catch that the latch hooks onto is starting to look mangled. It also doesn't look like it was wide enough to entirely cover the pin it's mounted on. I think the latch has been pushing it to the side, and only hooking on to one edge of the roller, rather than catching the bulk of it. As a result, latching the door is starting to not feel very smooth. Has anyone else experienced this? Is your roller too narrow, or is it just me?

PM Me a picture and I'll look it over. That assembly is easy to replace if need be....haven't heard of this from any owners since introduction 3 years ago.

Chris

 

[Tar12]

Those are excellent choices. Those are at the top of my list too if my princess had to be replaced. Both have significantly longer burn times than anything from any other manufacturer with a wide range of available output, high efficiency, 6" flues, and low emissions. The IS is pretty dang ugly. So is the princess and the Chinook. IMO, the ashford and scirocco are the only "normal" looking options.

The chimney height of 15' is unique to BK and is pretty excessive. I only have 12' and the extra 3' required would mean stupid looking roof braces and a space ship looking thing on my roof. Know that you need roof supports after you exceed 5' of pipe above the roof line and then another set of braces once you hit 10'.

You have any draft trouble running 12ft.? I am facing the same scenario here...it will look very stupid reaching 15 ft.

 

[pvfjr]

PM Me a picture and I'll look it over. That assembly is easy to replace if need be....haven't heard of this from any owners since introduction 3 years ago.

Chris

Thanks for the quick response! I'll snap a pic when I get home tonight.

You have any draft trouble running 12ft.? I am facing the same scenario here...it will look very stupid reaching 15 ft.

Even 17' wasn't quite enough for me; I had to step up to 20'. It works great now. I do have a 1st floor exit (straight up through the roof) on a 2-story house, however, so the resulting stack effect drove the requirement for a taller flue. Each installation will be different, but there are those squeaking by with a 12' flue.

 

[Highbeam]

You have any draft trouble running 12ft.? I am facing the same scenario here...it will look very stupid reaching 15 ft.

So my princess' owner's manual required 12' when I installed and I meet that spec. The princess now requires 15' just like the other 30 series stoves.

I do believe that my operating experience would be better with more draft but the only time I really notice a problem is when I get smoke spillage after opening the door when the stove is still partially loaded with burning fuel. The draft isn't quite strong enough to keep the smoke all in the stove when it's warm out. No problem when it is colder.

I have only a single story house with 8 foot ceilings and a 4:12 pitch roof so even 12' is a little bit tall looking! To be clear, this is measured from top of stove.

If you have no intention of providing a perfect 15' minimum flue system (more is required if you have bends) then I would skip the BK line. It seems that the folks with problems running a BK usually have not met the flue spec.

 

[Tar12]

So my princess' owner's manual required 12' when I installed and I meet that spec. The princess now requires 15' just like the other 30 series stoves.

I do believe that my operating experience would be better with more draft but the only time I really notice a problem is when I get smoke spillage after opening the door when the stove is still partially loaded with burning fuel. The draft isn't quite strong enough to keep the smoke all in the stove when it's warm out. No problem when it is colder.

I have only a single story house with 8 foot ceilings and a 4:12 pitch roof so even 12' is a little bit tall looking! To be clear, this is measured from top of stove.

If you have no intention of providing a perfect 15' minimum flue system (more is required if you have bends) then I would skip the BK line. It seems that the folks with problems running a BK usually have not met the flue spec.

Your situation mirrors mine. No bends here just a straight up.

 

[Highbeam]

Your situation mirrors mine. No bends here just a straight up.

If you do proceed with an underspec chimney then I would be sure that it is installed all vertical with double wall interior pipe, nice tight connections, and keep your cap clear. The chimney will draft better when it's colder out.

 

[Tar12]

If you do proceed with an underspec chimney then I would be sure that it is installed all vertical with double wall interior pipe, nice tight connections, and keep your cap clear. The chimney will draft better when it's colder out.

A quick rough estimate leaves about 9-10 ft of pipe in the air to meet the 15 ft minimum..