kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
When I installed mine I just eyeballed the bottom support brackets, I think there around 8 feet apart end to end supporting 6.5ft of chimney on the roof side. Its as solid as a rock.
2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)
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Does it meet the requirements of the 10-3-2 rule?
The legs should be at approx. a 45º angle to the pipe with a 60º spread between the legs.
oldbluedeer
New Member
oldbluedeer
New Member
My original question kind of got scrambled before I posted...
Yes, it does meet the 10-3-2 rule, barely but it meets it. The chimney extends a little more than 3 vertical feet above the roof surface (not counting cap) is about 2.5 horizontal feet away from ridge, and extends a little over 2 feet above ridge line.
I will be installing at 2 foot section of chimney pipe, which will give me a total run of 15' with the top of the chimney pipe extending about 5 vertical feet above roof surface (should still be possible to clean chimney without trying to prop a ladder on ridgeline of house...). In order to keep the angle support braces about 45 degrees from vertical, as well as keep the mounting bracket on the roof surface several inches below the ridge line, the highest that I could mount the support collar (to which the support extensions attach) around the chimney would be about 2 feet or a little less.
If I keep the support collar at 2' above roof (or less) in order to maintain a 45 degree angle on the support brackets, that would leave 3 feet of chimney pipe extending above support collar. With the support collar that low, it seems like it is hardly worth the effort, but I suppose it would be better than nothing.
If this is intelligible, what do you think?
jetsam
Minister of Fire
Well, it's going down to 37 tonight. The newly boiled cat has already earned The Scruffy Brown Dog Seal Of Approval!
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oldbluedeer
New Member
Ha ha ha... No, that ain't gonna happen!
I'll just raise the support collar a bit until there is 30" chimney above and 30" below. The angle won't be 45 degrees, but close enough.
Dieselhead
Minister of Fire
sure beats the baseboards banging and clanging, I ran my first load (still going) through the new cat as well. I forgot how great a new cat is.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
I LOVE new cats! I've heard folks referring to them as overactive. I wish mine would just stay overactive then.
black smoke signals
Feeling the Heat
I think a support brace even if it's only a couple feet above the roofline can be very valuable since (most of the time) the roof doesn't support the chimney. The chimney is actually supported way down in the ceiling support box and there is just an oversized hole in the sheathing where the chimney passes through.
On these support brackets, do you need to hit a rafter with the bolts or do you just screw it to the sheathing?
Don't forget, you can always spin off a section of class A above the roof line. Meaning even if you can't reach the cap you can take off that top chunk of chimney to clean it and then spin it back on. They are not bolted or glued together.
Myself, I clean bottom up but the chimney cap can get a little nasty.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
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lsucet
Minister of Fire
I have on mine, support box, a bracket under the flashing plus the brace to the roof. it is rock solid. I have almost 19' with almost 12' including the cap exposed. The second install, I am almost done with it and that one goes thru two story. Thru the ceiling with support box and a bracket on first floor and i just need to go thru the roof of the second story to finish the install. planning on doing it the following weekend. will put another bracket under the flashing also but no need to brace it.
I see the dilemma. It may take a compromise. If you place the brace pads just below the ridgeline what angle would the braces be at to reach the 5' level on the chimney. And at the 4' level?
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
I think I would just make sure that less than 5' is above the support clamp. Seems like he can do that even if the braces are at a 45 above horizontal.
Bullyboy
Burning Hunk
Not sure if I should ask here or start a new thread. I have read a lot about the bad smell from some of the BK's when run on low but I'm not sure if there is a consensus on the fix. I have an Ashford 30, 16' of chimney and unfortunately 2 45's. There seems to be a good draft but I have had a bit of smoke on hot reloads. Absolutely no smoke when it's just a coal bed. Stove itself seems to be working well. No problem with air control or getting long burn times. Which brings me to the smell. Only time I get it is when I dial it right down for a long burn. Only seems to smell right by the cat probe. Nothing on the sides or around the door. Dollar bill test is perfect all around. Not sure if I should lift the telescoping section and put some type of sealant in there or should I start by trying another section of chimney? I think I have read that both have worked. Any other ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Try turning it down in reasonable increments rather than all at once.
Bullyboy
Burning Hunk
I started off by turning it down a third for about 20-30 mins then another third, No luck. I've also tried it in quarters. Still get the smell in the lower settings.
Bullyboy
Burning Hunk
If I'm standing beside the stove and the thermo is a clock 2:30-3 isn't a very strong smell at all but anything lower it starts to get more pronounced. Unfortunately that's where the stove needs to run this time of year to prevent over heating the house.
Heftiger
Feeling the Heat
I’m no expert, but it sounds like draft to me. If you’re getting smoke on reloads, your draft isn’t good enough. I get similar behavior when the flue needs to be cleaned. If I start getting smoke on reloads, I know it’s time to sweep.
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Ashful
Minister of Fire
Absolutely keep it here. BK owners have a lot of interest in this, and finding a fix for those having it.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
Putting sealant on the pipe is just masking the problem. I'm also thinking its a draft issue? what kind of house do you have (new, old, tight, drafty) where is the stove in the house? basement, main, main floor? Can you add another length of chimney? what kind of wood are you burning? moisture content. what kind of chimney cap do you have? are there tree near by, or are you at a bottom of a hill? Whats your definition of a long burn? has your stove ever stalled out when dialed real low?
Bullyboy
Burning Hunk
It's a roughly 1400sq ft bungalow built in the 80's. All new windows, 2 doors still to be changed. Fairly tight. Seems to hold the heat fairly well. Stove is on main floor in the living room. Wood is mostly maple, ash, cherry and ironwood. Next years wood was cut and split in the spring and i moved this years into the garage to try to help the drying. Mostly between 20 and 25 right now. I have some that is reading close to 30 that I'm holding off on. No real large trees close to the house. There's about 20 acres of rolling fields around the house. I would have to hire someone to add a length of chimney. I'm pretty scared of heights these days hence the reason I had it installed for us.
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