As long as the surround is off, it might be worth putting in a damper off the flue collar and running the test again with the 3100 while you have the manometer.
Regency l3100 Cracks
- Thread starter davidmsem
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One other consideration is that the 3100 has been broken since the beginning, and the air choke is not really choking and leaving things more open than any of us are assuming. Fully choked may not be fully choked. One regency dealer told me they had a unit like that, person couldn't pull the fire back like mine, and they had a warranty claim on a 3100 l and after that were fine.
This is a good idea. I'll see what I can do or find wouldn't even know where to look any ideas?
All EPA stoves admit some air with the air control closed. Did you read the Gulland article I posted?
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Just seeing this for the first time. What is securing the liner into the elbow? It should have a proper liner elbow like this:
Fixed Elbows for Stainless Steel Flexible Chimney Liners - Rockford Chimney
Our Chimney Liner Elbows have laser welded seams and feature the quick connect band clamp for a secure fit every time. Choose from 15 or 30 degree elbows.
www.rockfordchimneysupply.com
It looks like you might be able to insert a cheap hardware store damper into those holes in the current elbow.
He talks about the air control and uses his stove to illustrate a modification. It's a PE Summit shown in the picture.
Looks like no clamping. If it was there, the end looks cut off. Looks like it's just pressed in. Maybe the sheet metal screws holding the elbow pierce the liner but I doubt that.Just seeing this for the first time. What is securing the liner into the elbow? This should have a proper liner elbow like this:
Fixed Elbows for Stainless Steel Flexible Chimney Liners - Rockford Chimney
Our Chimney Liner Elbows have laser welded seams and feature the quick connect band clamp for a secure fit every time. Choose from 15 or 30 degree elbows.
DuaeGuttae
Minister of Fire
I think maybe all I can say at this point is “Wow!” That applies to a number of recent posts in the thread.
I’m so glad that you’ve persevered in investigating and understanding your system, @davidmsem . Good job setting up a manometer. I also like the suggestion of testing with a damper installed if you are able to do that.
Member @jetsam is in Long Island. I believe that he paid for an installation that turned out to be poor quality, and he pulled it all out and redid it himself. Member @Dix is also in Long Island. I don’t recall any details about her installs, but maybe she can recommend someone.
@begreen, do you know if Stovelark does any installation work, or was he just in sales? He used to be in that area, I think.
I’m so glad that you’ve persevered in investigating and understanding your system, @davidmsem . Good job setting up a manometer. I also like the suggestion of testing with a damper installed if you are able to do that.
Member @jetsam is in Long Island. I believe that he paid for an installation that turned out to be poor quality, and he pulled it all out and redid it himself. Member @Dix is also in Long Island. I don’t recall any details about her installs, but maybe she can recommend someone.
@begreen, do you know if Stovelark does any installation work, or was he just in sales? He used to be in that area, I think.
Great image of blocking the airflow coming in! If that is a PE Summit LE it looks easy. Even some metal tape may hold there for a while but not optimal. Would this mess up the primary versus secondary draft on the PE Summit if that exists?
Thank you so much. I was a little stressed and pissy and jerky, but the folks here have stayed with me, leading me. Grateful they hung in with me.
I might try a damper on the 3100 while opened, just a little afraid to make a mistake. Not much room to work there so not sure but I will tinker. Any suggestion where to purchase a proper damper? I imagine I would place that between the elbow and the liner?
Thank you for reaching out to others for me. Looking for quality for the install.
Not sure how I could move a stove if I wanted to do that. My Kubota with pallet forks could get it on my deck, after that I'm not sure. I'm a weakling.
Kubota unloading the warranty unit that I'm selling (dad and his twin brother, great guys):
Wondering if I could get something like this and stick it in the holes in The elbow that I'm using to measure the data from.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
That it...although that one is about twice the price I'm used to...but what isn't these days...it should work fine, but your holes are about twice the size needed for that damper shaft, which is more like 1/4"
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Yes, the hole in the elbow is large, but it will do for a test. You are right about the price. Check the local hardware store for a damper. They probably have something like this.
US Stove 6 in. D Cast Iron Damper - Ace Hardware
This durable 6 inch cast iron damper is designed for use with any wood stove. Featuring a spring loaded removable steel shaft, it is closed by a formed spring wire button on the shaft end. The damper is easy to install and fits all standard single wall pipes.Find the CAST IRON DAMPER 6 at Ace.
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
You're doing good.
For peace of mind ("afraid to do something wrong"), just have a bucket of sand nearby. You won't need it, only for your peace of mind.
If things go out of control, shovel in the sand to extinguish the fire without causing my damage (other than to your ego)...
For peace of mind ("afraid to do something wrong"), just have a bucket of sand nearby. You won't need it, only for your peace of mind.
If things go out of control, shovel in the sand to extinguish the fire without causing my damage (other than to your ego)...
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
Got mine from lowes for 12$ Might get a couple fender washers just to make sure the spring collar isn’t smaller than the hole. Pull the baffles one hand up the outlet with the damper plate other hand threads the damper handle. My version is friction locked in place with the spring tension. It was easier than I thought to get it installed.
Found the US stove model on Amazon delivered for 12 bucks. Should be here Tuesday. God help me as I open this thing up. No idea what I will do to the connection. At least it's the end of the heating season if I screw it up and can't get it back together.
MongoMongoson
Feeling the Heat
I am glad I could help.
Pacific Energy was pretty direct with me about what constituted an overdraft condition and how to rectify it.
They said: "Measure the draft. It should be about 0.08 - 0.09” water column (or equivalent) or lower with the stove
hot and on full open setting with a burning fuel load.
Any higher than 0.12” wc and the unit is over drafting and that will result in eventual damage"
Upon seeing my readings, they told me straight up my stove was overdrafting. They did not directly tell me to install a damper, but did mention "An inline draft (key) damper may help slow a chimney with too high a draft. Most chimney connector
manufacturers make them for their connectors." And gave me some example pictures of what dampers look like.
Your measurements are about double what I had!
Pacific Energy was pretty direct with me about what constituted an overdraft condition and how to rectify it.
They said: "Measure the draft. It should be about 0.08 - 0.09” water column (or equivalent) or lower with the stove
hot and on full open setting with a burning fuel load.
Any higher than 0.12” wc and the unit is over drafting and that will result in eventual damage"
Upon seeing my readings, they told me straight up my stove was overdrafting. They did not directly tell me to install a damper, but did mention "An inline draft (key) damper may help slow a chimney with too high a draft. Most chimney connector
manufacturers make them for their connectors." And gave me some example pictures of what dampers look like.
Your measurements are about double what I had!
Thank you again. You are a great example of what this forum is all about. Folks here we're pushing me to do more and I was already exhausted with the subject but I really needed to dig in more. You're random instant message was so timely.
Those are amazing numbers that Pacific Energy gave to you. With full open air I would peg your meter. No doubt. I forget if you have an insert or a stove? I only have about six to eight inches above the unit to get a damper in place.
I feel somewhat redeemed cuz I felt like I damaged the unit when people say "you over fired it". We were religious about choking that thing all the way down.
I would really really like to get one of these meters and install it permanently to monitor what's going on. Not quite sure how I would set that up yet, and the damper would be even harder to set up (how to attach some type of rod to move it, and how to pass it through the faceplate). My wife doesn't like the faceplate on the Pacific energy Summit le insert so I would have one made of 3/4 in steel that I estimates going to weigh about 96 lb. The laser cutting steel factory near me has a wonderful owner. He said if you can draw it the machine will cut it. So I may cut a hole in the face where I could reach in with my hand and turn the damper opened and closed.
Every time I talk to the dealers and even go sit there with them they look at me like I'm crazy. They speak an entirely different language from this forum. I don't mind paying for the extra time it will take them to work a damper in.
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
This one is cosmetic for my bride. I'm in negotiations. The faceplate on the Pacific Energy LE one size fits all and it is very very large. Have to agree with her I just wouldn't look good with an inch of brick on the side showing.
Even if I drop down to quarter or half inch the manufacturer can cut a hole in it for me where I could reach in to turn the damper. Maybe I could talk her into something cosmetic to sit in front of the opening? I think a Magnehelic would look awesome there as well! Would be great to get a fitting right into the pipe and connect a copper line directly to the pipe. There is not much room up there to work, maybe 6 to 8 in above the unit, so it's going to be a tough install I'm guessing.
I imagine the damper would have to be in the adapter that plugs into the stove. Not sure if that exists and where my dealer might find those or I may find them if I have to install it myself but I will look. Having it installed directly coming out of the answer would mean I could reach it from the front easily.
Just ideas and thinking out loud a bit here.
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
I'm going to quote you on this
! This can help me in negotiations. I think she said something about depth and dinky and the other one just rattled. I may need coaching on this portion as well and maybe more dangerous and difficult.
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
I decided not to install the surround. The firebrick is painted black. And I have an 8” section of single wall waiting for me to trim and drill for the the extended damper rod that I have yet to make, to conceal the liner up to the blockoff plate that not been installed yet. Glad it’s a basement that we don’t spend a lot of time in. If you are getting custom a custom surround I like the the look of the ones that sit just inside the the fireplace openingI'm going to quote you on this
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