2022/23 VC Owner thread

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These stoves do like to mess with their operators. I have noticed as well where the stove behavior will suddenly change; e.g. the week before it would rocket up to 1500 in 20 mins, but this week it seems to hang around 800 forever before slowly climbing. Sometimes it smokes even with the catalyst at 1100. Dunno why. The changes happen to me every so often, whenever I think I've gotten my technique dialed in perfectly. I attribute it to a combination of many things; maybe some unknown variability in my wood supply, or perhaps I'm going through a part of the catalyst's natural aging process where it doesn't light off quite as easily. Still, the stove always gives off good heat and can cruise smokelessly for hours so I've learned to just roll with it. If I see a wisp of smoke outside I don't automatically assume I've done something wrong, maybe it just needs time to stabilize. If the cat temp suddenly drops from 1200 to 900, it probably means there was a pocket of higher moisture in a split that started boiling off.
 
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There was one instance this year where my cat actually stalled, and it was a day that went from 25dF in the morning to over 60 in the afternoon and my draft completely vanished. I had the stove cruising with air closed all the way; then at lunch time I realized I had been smelling wood smoke for a while so I went outside, checked the chimney and there was a dark plume of grey billowing out. Cat temp had crashed to 350. So I opened the damper and got the fire going to reestablish the draft, closed bypass again and all was well. This taught me that all the other times I had been worried about the cat stalling or not functioning correctly were actually normal.
 
Hey everyone is it normal to see flames through the back gap at the cat chamber?
At some points I see a glow, some times a dancing flame, sometimes nothing...
Is fire back there "flame impingement"?
If so curious if I have been doing something wrong. Temps have all been fine so far.

Thanks
 
Hey everyone is it normal to see flames through the back gap at the cat chamber?
At some points I see a glow, some times a dancing flame, sometimes nothing...
Is fire back there "flame impingement"?
If so curious if I have been doing something wrong. Temps have all been fine so far.

Thanks
A bit of flame there is normal at the peak of the burn. The flames have to turn 180 and go another 6-8 inches from there before they would impinge on the cat.
 
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A bit of flame there is normal at the peak of the burn. The flames have to turn 180 and go another 6-8 inches from there before they would impinge on the cat.
agree 100%... you can minimize this by careful placement of the first few logs.... I try to leave an air pocket at the smoke inlet. Not sure if it it helps or not..... but I do it anyway.

I suspect a lot of my cat / refractory issues are a result of flame impingement.
 
agree 100%... you can minimize this by careful placement of the first few logs.... I try to leave an air pocket at the smoke inlet. Not sure if it it helps or not..... but I do it anyway.

I suspect a lot of my cat / refractory issues are a result of flame impingement.
Thank you that's interesting. Do you leave an air pocket between coals and the back wall? Or just leave space with new wood when reloading? I assumed with the manual telling us to push coals to the back the stove wanted everything tight to the back wall.

Its only been a handful of fires but I'm going to take a look at the cat tonight to see how things are going. It hit 1440 on the first burn but everything after that has peaked around 1100.

Is it worth flipping/rotating it while I'm at it?
 
Thank you that's interesting. Do you leave an air pocket between coals and the back wall? Or just leave space with new wood when reloading? I assumed with the manual telling us to push coals to the back the stove wanted everything tight to the back wall.

Its only been a handful of fires but I'm going to take a look at the cat tonight to see how things are going. It hit 1440 on the first burn but everything after that has peaked around 1100.

Is it worth flipping/rotating it while I'm at it?

Your stove is running fine with those temperatures.. dont panic.. sounds like your doing good.. leave well enough alone.. I can say in the beginning I was overzealous and check the cat and cleaned way to often.. I broke 2 catalyst this way.. vacuum said cat 2 to 3 weeks depending on how much your burning..
 
Thank you that's interesting. Do you leave an air pocket between coals and the back wall? Or just leave space with new wood when reloading? I assumed with the manual telling us to push coals to the back the stove wanted everything tight to the back wall.

Its only been a handful of fires but I'm going to take a look at the cat tonight to see how things are going. It hit 1440 on the first burn but everything after that has peaked around 1100.

Is it worth flipping/rotating it while I'm at it?
Here is what I do, typically.
  • Rake coals to the back and pile them up right against the refractory. If I have a heavy bed of coals I do not do this. I just spread them out evenly.
  • First log goes in about 3 in away from the back wall. i try to use bigger rounds or splits for this first peice.
  • Second split goes in front of the first, on the coals / ash bed.
  • Third split goes against the back wall on top of the first one.
    • This forms a pocket in front of the smoke inlet with a clump of coals inside.
  • #4- 6 splits are any way they will fit..... hahaha Make sure you can close the bypass!
    • I have had some loads where I can't close the bypass cause a log is in the way..... that's fun especially when it has sat for a while in bypass heating up..... Couple times I had to ask the wife to open the door and one flaming log goes out into the back yard.....
1100 peaks sounds like Xanadu....

Flipping: I don't know..... there is something to be said for not messing with it. Every time you touch it you risk damaging it. If it was me I would pull it part way out and sneak a peak at the back side of the frame. If it looks straight and square leave it.... I do not think flipping it is good long term solution as I suspect to be effective you would have to flip it a couple times a week.

Side note: 2 weeks ago I pulled mine and the lower back corner was blown out. I flipped it and was able to get the refractory in place long enough to lean a log against it.... I checked it after a couple loads and it had squared back up.... The pictures I posted above are after I had flipped and "re-formed" it.... everything fits pretty well now.

Just thinking.... If I can find a thin enough piece of angle iron to set in there..... might give that back corner a little more support.
 
Question for the metal cat crowd.....
  • When you ran ceramic cats, did you warp the frames like mine? And did that stop when you went to a metal cat?
Given my propensity to warp the crap out of steel cat frames, my only concern is that I would do the same thing to the metal cat, but not just the frame.....

Possible outcomes I can envision:
  • I mangle a metal cat beyond recognition.....
  • Metal cat runs cooler and keeps it shape because temps are lower and heat is more evenly distributed.
    • What are they using for metal grid? I assume it is a steel and not Inconel or Hastelloy.
  • Some other disaster I have not anticipated yet.....
 
Here is what I do, typically.
  • Rake coals to the back and pile them up right against the refractory. If I have a heavy bed of coals I do not do this. I just spread them out evenly.
  • First log goes in about 3 in away from the back wall. i try to use bigger rounds or splits for this first peice.
  • Second split goes in front of the first, on the coals / ash bed.
  • Third split goes against the back wall on top of the first one.
    • This forms a pocket in front of the smoke inlet with a clump of coals inside.
  • #4- 6 splits are any way they will fit..... hahaha Make sure you can close the bypass!
    • I have had some loads where I can't close the bypass cause a log is in the way..... that's fun especially when it has sat for a while in bypass heating up..... Couple times I had to ask the wife to open the door and one flaming log goes out into the back yard.....
1100 peaks sounds like Xanadu....

Flipping: I don't know..... there is something to be said for not messing with it. Every time you touch it you risk damaging it. If it was me I would pull it part way out and sneak a peak at the back side of the frame. If it looks straight and square leave it.... I do not think flipping it is good long term solution as I suspect to be effective you would have to flip it a couple times a week.

Side note: 2 weeks ago I pulled mine and the lower back corner was blown out. I flipped it and was able to get the refractory in place long enough to lean a log against it.... I checked it after a couple loads and it had squared back up.... The pictures I posted above are after I had flipped and "re-formed" it.... everything fits pretty well now.

Just thinking.... If I can find a thin enough piece of angle iron to set in there..... might give that back corner a little more support.
I push my coals toward the back but not like a ski slope against the wall, I hump it and try not to touch the wall too much. Mostly what Im doing is just shoveling the stuff in the front half toward the back half if you catch what Im saying.
The first log is usually smaller, and goes on top of the ash mound. I might put it directly against the wall or leave an inch of space depending on the size of the log. Second log goes toward the front and sits on a tiny bit of coals and is usually turn a tiny bit sideways. Then I indiscriminately load the rest of my wood, sometimes putting a larger piece in the middle and maybe a larger one on top if Im doing an overnight burn.
 
Another rager last night.....

This load was from my "drier" stack, I need to recheck MC but it has been 12-15%. The last two weeks I was burning 18-20% wetter stuff...

I think my mistake here was I left air open too long after the reload, but I got fooled, there was lots of flame in the firebox but the cat temp was dropping for an hour..... I thought it odd at the time.

When the cat kicked in it went off like a rocket. i slowed it down for a little by reducing air but I think it was too late.

Notice flue temps went to 700, I measured draft at this point and it was 0.13 iwc, very high..... Closing the key damper all the way brought it down to 0.1 iwc.


2022/23 VC Owner thread
 
This information is complete false and inaccurate.. Catalyst life only goes by hours.. and hours only.. a cat may last 10 years based on an occasional weekend use.. It will Certainly will not last that long with daily use.. No manufacturers catalyst will last that long in any brand stove with daily use..

oil changes in vehicles are the same thing.. miles.. not years.. same principle.. its hours used.. not time span
BK claims the cat should last 10000 to 12000hrs.
Few BK burners/members here can reach that within 2yrs. I have seen pics of used up (dead)cats and they look good, all in one piece. My Encore (2”) cat after 4yrs of less than full time and more than occasional use looked perfect with zero cracks. I believe it was coming to an end of its life. The light off would take longer, the glow was darker orange, the heat output was not the same.
Cracked, disintegrated cats are abused/overhead cats or as some call it shocked cats. User error always.
 
Alright then, what "user error" have I and @arnermd been doing all this time???? Please tell

I knew "user error" was going to illicit a response, I was waiting on it. I will admit it got my attention too.....
I would accept that cats that look like mine are overheated and abused. I have trouble accepting user error as the sole cause. Maybe @Diabel can clarify.... Pretty sure he is aware that these stoves are "finicky" (understatement of the century).

I am thoroughly frustrated with my stove again this morning..... After last nights debacle I loaded up, nice coal bed, threw the cat in, air went to 10% open. I sat here and watched the cat go from 800 to 1600 in an hour. Closed my key damper (draft = 0.08 iwc), cat came down to 1500 then turned around and climbed to 1650. Opened the air up to 40% to get some more primary burn, cat is now bouncing between 1500 and 1600.

Only change over the past 2 weeks of good burns is: Drier wood and smaller splits.
- Just checked MC on a fresh split. 13-15%

Maybe I will try a metal cat just to see what happens.

My resolve to solve this puzzle is waning. Time to check on my BK savings fund I think....
 
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I knew I would get attention of some of you who are very frustrated with their stoves. I fought my VC for many, many seasons and still had occasional melt downs. Until I gave up. These stoves are tested in labs and manuals are written based on the lab results (perfect conditions). We run these stoves in “field” conditions that change from burn to burn. As we adjust/tweek the controls to (what we think) will improve/benefit the behavior of the set burn we unknowingly commit error (unwritten errors).
 
Another rager last night.....

This load was from my "drier" stack, I need to recheck MC but it has been 12-15%. The last two weeks I was burning 18-20% wetter stuff...

I think my mistake here was I left air open too long after the reload, but I got fooled, there was lots of flame in the firebox but the cat temp was dropping for an hour..... I thought it odd at the time.

When the cat kicked in it went off like a rocket. i slowed it down for a little by reducing air but I think it was too late.

Notice flue temps went to 700, I measured draft at this point and it was 0.13 iwc, very high..... Closing the key damper all the way brought it down to 0.1 iwc.


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Looking at the cat temp from say 19:20 to 20:30, is that cat stall? After maybe 10 minutes of no temp rise would it make sense to open the bypass, let it cook for a bit, then re-engage?
Not implying that would avoid the temp spike just curious about the strategy if you see cat temp sit at 600 for so long.
 
I'm actually not very frustrated with my stove, I like it. But I have come to accept that cat temps over 1600 and gradually degrading due to heat stress is a consistent behavior of this stove/install and not because of anything in particular that I'm doing to it as the operator.
 
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I'm actually not very frustrated with my stove, I like it. But I have come to accept that cat temps over 1600 and gradually degrading due to heat stress is a consistent behavior of this stove/install and not because of anything in particular that I'm doing to it as the operator.
I tend to agree here. With so many variables it is impossible to repeat a process. One small change and the stove overheats the cat. It certainly requires a lot of feel. One load of wood to the next it's all different. Even if draft, cat reload temp, coal bed size is all the same.

I say this and my stove has been cruising for about 10-12 days or so since the last meltdown. I'm so screwed for tonight down. 1700 cat temps incoming
 
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Looking at the cat temp from say 19:20 to 20:30, is that cat stall? After maybe 10 minutes of no temp rise would it make sense to open the bypass, let it cook for a bit, then re-engage?
Not implying that would avoid the temp spike just curious about the strategy if you see cat temp sit at 600 for so long.
Seems like a valid suggestion..... My concern with doing that would be increasing my flue temp and hence draft, then when I reengaged the cat it would rocket to 1600+..... it ended up there anyway, so there's that.
 
Looking at the cat temp from say 19:20 to 20:30, is that cat stall? After maybe 10 minutes of no temp rise would it make sense to open the bypass, let it cook for a bit, then re-engage?
Not implying that would avoid the temp spike just curious about the strategy if you see cat temp sit at 600 for so long.
What is being asked of people is literally insane.
If all other stoves are exponentially easier to operate (and safer) then there would be merit into a ...dare I saw...group of people seeking action.
I was in that camp, but for my setup I think I've been able to get ok results IF I'm willing to stick around. For the most part I feel confident in leaving it alone but that one time I had a giant box of flames with air set to the lowest setting freaked me out enough to think it unwise until proven otherwise by the stove through a long history of predictable burns. And Im just not ready to document for my wife an IF > Then > Else type of document that would allow her to operate the stove while Im away doing something potentially up to an hour away.

My draft seems fairly strong and I do not suffer from poor draft symptoms however when winter finally hit the stove ran much better than when I was 'testing' it with outside temps in the mid 50s or warmer.

When I read arnermds posts all I can think about is what this guy went through:
I actually saw this guys video now that I recall, BEFORE I bought my dauntless. But I didnt see anything else and figured it was an older stove, surely they fixed it 4-5 years later especially as I hadnt heard of any complaints.

I think the answer may be to remove the CAT and wait until shoulder season to use it.
 
I tend to agree here. With so many variables it is impossible to repeat a process. One small change and the stove overheats the cat. It certainly requires a lot of feel. One load of wood to the next it's all different. Even if draft, cat reload temp, coal bed size is all the same.

I say this and my stove has been cruising for about 10-12 days or so since the last meltdown. I'm so screwed for tonight down. 1700 cat temps incoming
agreed.... except I freely admit I am very frustrated...

I feel like this poor little dog here, whenever I re-load......

2022/23 VC Owner thread
 
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These stoves do like to mess with their operators. I have noticed as well where the stove behavior will suddenly change; e.g. the week before it would rocket up to 1500 in 20 mins, but this week it seems to hang around 800 forever before slowly climbing. Sometimes it smokes even with the catalyst at 1100. Dunno why. The changes happen to me every so often, whenever I think I've gotten my technique dialed in perfectly. I attribute it to a combination of many things; maybe some unknown variability in my wood supply, or perhaps I'm going through a part of the catalyst's natural aging process where it doesn't light off quite as easily. Still, the stove always gives off good heat and can cruise smokelessly for hours so I've learned to just roll with it. If I see a wisp of smoke outside I don't automatically assume I've done something wrong, maybe it just needs time to stabilize. If the cat temp suddenly drops from 1200 to 900, it probably means there was a pocket of higher moisture in a split that started boiling off.
There are times where I will be cruising along with half > 3/4 of a box of really nicely burning wood that has a nice orange glow to it and a few gentle flames, then I will see smoke fly past my window. When I go outside, I see nothing but heat waves...literally nothing. Then I'll go inside again and I'll see it maybe 20 mins later. Maybe it is in relation to a gust of strong air (I live in a sharp valley between two mountains...or large hills 1k higher). It could also be doing what my fireplace does. If I have wood too far to the sides or a piece slumps over that way, it will just smoke. The center is going nicely and I'll burn my hand if I get too close for too long moving pieces more toward the center. I do notice pieces of wood smoking earlier in the burn more easily on the sides toward the front.
 
4 thumbs up for that video..... that combustor looks way worse than any of mine.... but that's where I am headed.
 
How are you guys measuring your CAT temps? did you install an aftermarket probe in there? I have never monitored my CAT temp and by reading this thread i dont want to even know.

The VC Encore is the hardest stove to run I have ever had, and I've had multiple brands over the past 20 years. Granted mine is an older Encore CAT stove but i did a ton of maintenance to it before this burn season and its hardly different than last year. I'm about done with it. There should be more people on here steering others away from VC, I sure wish I did more research before i bought the "pretty" stove from a company thats been making stoves since the beginning of time. A company thats been around as long as VC there is no excuse as to why these stoves are a PITA to operate.
 
How are you guys measuring your CAT temps? did you install an aftermarket probe in there? I have never monitored my CAT temp and by reading this thread i dont want to even know.

The VC Encore is the hardest stove to run I have ever had, and I've had multiple brands over the past 20 years. Granted mine is an older Encore CAT stove but i did a ton of maintenance to it before this burn season and its hardly different than last year. I'm about done with it. There should be more people on here steering others away from VC, I sure wish I did more research before i bought the "pretty" stove from a company thats been making stoves since the beginning of time. A company thats been around as long as VC there is no excuse as to why these stoves are a PITA to operate.
I started with the mechanical probe that came with the cat kit, then borrowed a neighbors digital setup and then gave it back to the neighbor and now just use a STT behind the griddle toward the flue ONLY to look at quickly as Im walking by while Im in the middle of a burn. It's not reliable to look at STT during start-up or reload.

I was shocked to see that my secondary was getting so hot. That's one of the reasons why I borrowed my neighbors setup because surely this mechanical probe isnt working. I learned how to keep it mostly on track but I didnt want to worry about every time the cat briefly gets to a point that Im not super comfortable. For me I like a cushion of extremes so anything over 1300 cat or 625 STT I started to freak out.

I tried everything, I logged everything. I couldnt find consistent answers. The only thing that seems to work for me is to ensure I reload with a nice hot bed of coals and let the next load really catch, or if I waited too long to reload, I have to keep it on primary for a long time to really let a load get nice and coaled up before flipping over to secondary. The larger bed of coals seems to help the secondary not get so hot, as long as I only sweep the front half of the coals toward the back half of the coals and dont touch the back half of the coals much. On a windy day though through the valley, I can hear what others described as a 'blowtorch' effect if I get close enough to the stove and that's when I know my cat area is probably getting really hot. There are others that state they can hear this blowtorch effect standing 15' away. That's where I think some sort of mechanism would work for folks that have that extreme amount of air/flames rushing through the secondary. Another air control of sorts, maybe something that was automatic like they advertised but...it doesnt really exist. I believe this because I had a similar experience doing this through primary. If you have a nice new load of wood loaded and let it really catch, and air control is on high, open the top hatch for a bit and watch the flames RUSH up through the hatch into the flue pipe. One time I had this open and was talking with a family member about the stove (and the issues Ive had), and had the hatch open for awhile. I then closed it but immediately started to smell a plastic burning smell and then started to hear what sounded like mini firecrackers going off inside my flue toward the lower half. I briefly saw tiny puffs of smoke puff out of the pipe joints. After checking in on here and other resources, many would say I had a chimney fire but it was more of what most would call a 'creosote burn off'. Sure enough I looked inside the next day and I had some creosote further up, for a stove that was used maybe ...I dont know...10 times?!?! I was creating a ton of smoke when I first started out on this journey, my glass was black and my doors/walls were covered in creosote. YIKES. I was burning too low for this stove, and burning during a shoulder season to test.

Now my glass stays mostly clear. My last burn, it was COMPLETELY clear. My mind was racing to figure out what I did because I normally have at least a little bit of darkening toward the top left/right sides of my left/right doors.

At any rate, mine is a weekend stove so I dont have the time to master this to the point that I can say with assurance this or that is what people should do to dial theirs in for a specific problem. I was hoping that by page 40 of this years thread, there would be a IF > Then > else type of instruction book that people could garner to solve THEIR problems, but it seems these stoves and the problems they have are all unique while looking similar.

None of the people I know that have stoves deal with this. My one neighbor went down the path of trying to get the most out of their stove using all the probes etc and finally realized he didnt need it anymore, he just knows his stove and barely messes with it. He wont burn pine and he wont burn super wet wood, aside from that - carefree.

I almost like my stove at this point, but then I quickly remind myself that 1. things can change quickly back to crap and 2. I should be able to easily show my wife how to use this and not worry Im going to come back to a heaping pile of cast iron or a box full of charred oily wood with black glass. I feel like Im close though, especially in between reloads - just leave the air control between HERE and HERE....NEVER anywhere else. If you see tons of flames lower it down to HERE, if you see NO flames take it up one notch and wait 15 mins. If you are cold take it up 2 notches and watch the STT doesnt get to 650. If it does, lower it to HERE. (<--that's already too much for her). While that doesnt seem like a lot, like I said...my other neighbors literally set theirs and forget it until they say ..oh look , I ran out of wood. They chuck in more wood and walk away again for another 5-6 hours.
 
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