Drolet HT2000 DIY Installation

kennyp2339 · Dec 8, 2018

chuckmunch said:
Thanks for the info! I used all non combustible material behind the stove all the way to the wall block which has no insulation in between the blocks, I think I'm good on clearance. I do like the idea of keeping better draft since my chimney is not enclosed in the structure.

If I use the two 45s, won't this pitch down toward the stove or would I still need to do this for the short span off the thimble?

Installing the double wall with the markings of the air flow, currently, I'm getting some backdrafting with lots of cold air coming down the chimney.. is that the direction or?

Flow from the stove to the chimney is your direction. Some cold chimneys have a reverse draft (especially if the install is in the basement) since cold air sinks, so you'll feel a little cold air drain when the stove is not in use, depending on how strong this is will determine your cold starting procedures.
Some members will lite a few crumpled pieces of news paper to warm the flu before loading the stove, others have used a hair dryer, torch, even a work lite w/ 100w rough service bulb, I myself don't need any of it since its minimal I just lite a fire and walk away.
Remember to do break in fires to cure your paint and drive the moisture out of the fire brick, (3) small fires is all it takes, first small fire of kindling, let stove cool, 2nd larger fire of kindling and a few smaller splits, let cool off then 3rd fire is your final break in fire, fully loaded keeping temps at your cruise level (600 deg stove top)

Trey1979 · Dec 8, 2018

great stove installed mine a few months ago and me and the family love it

2018 drolet ht2000

chuckmunch · Dec 8, 2018

Trey1979 said:
great stove installed mine a few months ago and me and the family love it

2018 drolet ht2000

Thanks, I can't wait to use mine.... this oil burner furnace is killing me...

brenndatomu · Dec 8, 2018

chuckmunch said:
Thanks, I can't wait to use mine.... this oil burner furnace is killing me...

One you get the wood heat goin, hearing the oil furnace run is like fingernails on the chalkboard! ;lol

Ludlow · Dec 8, 2018

I love the look and specs on that stove. Unfortunately it was way too big for my application.

kennyp2339 · Dec 9, 2018

chuckmunch said:
Thanks, I can't wait to use mine.... this oil burner furnace is killing me...

Its a nice looking stove and a proven heater, hardly any bad reviews on here, usually if there is a bad review its because of wet wood or short chimney stack.
The stoves will peak its performance when there's at least 1" of ash on the fire brick, the ask acts like an additional layer of insulation and you'll find that you can turn the air control even lower and still get a very clean burn.
When starting off after the break in fires use your eyes as a guide, watch you flames in the firebox and watch your chimney stack outside, try to keep smoke during the burn (after 10-15min on reload) little to none, your doing it right when you just have heat waves coming out the chimney. Keep stove top temps in check and don't go above 750deg, start cutting the air back when the stove top gets into the 400's it will still creep up into the 500-600's with the air turned down, and remember every air adjustment takes 20min before you can see the full effect in the firebox

chuckmunch · Dec 9, 2018

kennyp2339 said:
Its a nice looking stove and a proven heater, hardly any bad reviews on here, usually if there is a bad review its because of wet wood or short chimney stack.
The stoves will peak its performance when there's at least 1" of ash on the fire brick, the ask acts like an additional layer of insulation and you'll find that you can turn the air control even lower and still get a very clean burn.
When starting off after the break in fires use your eyes as a guide, watch you flames in the firebox and watch your chimney stack outside, try to keep smoke during the burn (after 10-15min on reload) little to none, your doing it right when you just have heat waves coming out the chimney. Keep stove top temps in check and don't go above 750deg, start cutting the air back when the stove top gets into the 400's it will still creep up into the 500-600's with the air turned down, and remember every air adjustment takes 20min before you can see the full effect in the firebox

Thanks for the tips! This sounds like working my Acorn grill, lol. Ordering the stove pipe now... hopefully everything works out. Going with the DuraVent DVL using the Selkirk adapter. If all goes as planned, I should be burning before the week is out.

Don.S · Dec 9, 2018

I have this same stove and on a full reload it is impossible to keep it below 750 unless i shut it down way too early and then I get back puffing. It's a big stove and a big heat maker. Also air adjustments you see right away. If you went too much it will fall on its face if not enough it will take off like a rocket. I guess it depends on stack length and set up too but that's how mine performs.

T-roy_ · Dec 9, 2018

Don.S said:
I have this same stove and on a full reload it is impossible to keep it below 750 unless i shut it down way too early and then I get back puffing. It's a big stove and a big heat maker. Also air adjustments you see right away. If you went too much it will fall on its face if not enough it will take off like a rocket. I guess it depends on stack length and set up too but that's how mine performs.

I find the same to be true. This stove likes to run hot.

brenndatomu · Dec 9, 2018

T-roy_ said:
I find the same to be true. This stove likes to run hot.

Sounds like a good stove trait...

chuckmunch · Dec 9, 2018

Don.S said:
I have this same stove and on a full reload it is impossible to keep it below 750 unless i shut it down way too early and then I get back puffing. It's a big stove and a big heat maker. Also air adjustments you see right away. If you went too much it will fall on its face if not enough it will take off like a rocket. I guess it depends on stack length and set up too but that's how mine performs.

This is good to know. Does this happen with all types of wood and do you have a similar experience with a lighter load/reload?

Don.S · Dec 10, 2018

If I do small loads throughout the day I can keep it at 500 to 700 stove top. But I dont care for that unless I'm working in the basement and want to play with the stove. I purchased a large stove so I could load it up two or three times a day and make big heat and that is exactly what this stove does.
I do not really have much experiance with different woods but I can say that elm, ash and white birch all do the same. The only thing that changes are burn times. Elm been the longest and birch is the shortest

chuckmunch · Jan 14, 2019

Hey guys I finally got my stove up and running this past weekend! A big thanks to all of your posts! You guys really helped me out a lot!

To those of you who have this same stove, I got a question about the burn times ect. I loaded the stove with some of that stuff you get bundled at the grocery store. The burn time was about 4 hours or so with about 4-5 medium to large splits. I then mixed it with some birch, a tad more expensive and I was thinking it would increase the burn time, nope. I saw on the previous post that this probably won't work, just as I type this message. It seems to want to run up to about 750+ degrees stove top with flue temps at around 600 degrees on the probe mounted about 20" over the flue collar on the stove. The secondaries are burning strong at 500, after I shut the air off completely, she still rises to those temps. The stove is probably loaded at about 50 percent and can handle a lot more wood, but I know how that will turn out if I pack it.. or I'm guessing. I asked Drolet about this and they said that I may be having an overdraft issue. Which may make sense because my chimney is 7" and is reduced to the 6" stove pipe.

So I'm thinking of taking this apart and installing the selkirk dsp6dk-1 damper. I saw some reviews saying this isn't necessary to get long burn times and control the fire more. But from what I can tell, I was out of options when the air was all the way closed on the stove. Any thoughts?

Just in case the link above doesn't work, here it is again. This video shows the stove after the peak... but I think still too hot?? I am new to wood burning so maybe not?

moresnow · Jan 14, 2019

Try shutting down the air much earlier after getting a solid established fire going. This happens very quickly on the HT2000 I am around. Mostly on hot reloads. You can also open up the air at the end of the coaling stage for a hour or more normally to burn down the coal bed for room to reload. Unless the 7" system is adversely overdrafting? Questionable but I have not run that stove on 7". You should get much longer burn times with a full load. As you mentioned 4-5 splits will give you what your getting for burn times.

Start working your way up to bigger loads/batch's that you run until down to a bed of coals before reloading. There should be very little futzing with air control on this one between loads once you figure out when to shut down the air. Its a big stove. Feed it full loads and get the most out of it when you have mastered the air shut down timing/routine. This has been my experience. Let us know how it goes.

Ludlow · Jan 14, 2019

750 STT isnt dangerous, Id say just peaking.. 600 flue gas temp sounds perfect to me. Have fun with it!

chuckmunch · Jan 14, 2019

moresnow said:
Try shutting down the air much earlier after getting a solid established fire going. This happens very quickly on the HT2000 I am around. Mostly on hot reloads. You can also open up the air at the end of the coaling stage for a hour or more normally to burn down the coal bed for room to reload. Unless the 7" system is adversely overdrafting? Questionable but I have not run that stove on 7". You should get much longer burn times with a full load. As you mentioned 4-5 splits will give you what your getting for burn times.

Start working your way up to bigger loads/batch's that you run until down to a bed of coals before reloading. There should be very little futzing with air control on this one between loads once you figure out when to shut down the air. Its a big stove. Feed it full loads and get the most out of it when you have mastered the air shut down timing/routine. This has been my experience. Let us know how it goes.

I just threw in a couple more splits, one thing I was doing wrong was building the fire too close to the front of the box? I made sure everything was as far back as I couple put it this time, and now she is at 550 STT and 400 flue temp.. I'll try to work my way up a bit... a lot of this seems to be my inexperience building a good fire...lol Thanks for your reply and I'll keep you posted.

chuckmunch · Jan 14, 2019

Ludlow said:
750 STT isnt dangerous, Id say just peaking.. 600 flue gas temp sounds perfect to me. Have fun with it!

Now that I've learned to put the fire as fire back in the box as possible, STT is at 550 with flue 400.... My stove top thermometer enters the red zone at 650 degrees... so when it hit 750... this first timer was nervous to the bone...lol... maybe a new thermometer?

moresnow · Jan 14, 2019

We load that stove N-S. Splits get poked straight in. Not E-W or sideways. Never worried much about the distance from the glass this way? They cant roll towards the glass loaded north to south. I get more loaded that way for sure. Less chance to burn you hands/wrists. Just be sure the splits are pushed inside far enough that the glass doesn't hit them when closing the loading door! Have fun. You will soon have this down pat.

begreen · Jan 14, 2019

chuckmunch said:
Now that I've learned to put the fire as fire back in the box as possible, STT is at 550 with flue 400.... My stove top thermometer enters the red zone at 650 degrees... so when it hit 750... this first timer was nervous to the bone...lol... maybe a new thermometer?

Why I like a plain faced thermometer with just the temperature.

T-roy_ · Jan 15, 2019

moresnow said:
Try shutting down the air much earlier after getting a solid established fire going. This happens very quickly on the HT2000 I am around. Mostly on hot reloads. You can also open up the air at the end of the coaling stage for a hour or more normally to burn down the coal bed for room to reload. Unless the 7" system is adversely overdrafting? Questionable but I have not run that stove on 7". You should get much longer burn times with a full load. As you mentioned 4-5 splits will give you what your getting for burn times.

Start working your way up to bigger loads/batch's that you run until down to a bed of coals before reloading. There should be very little futzing with air control on this one between loads once you figure out when to shut down the air. Its a big stove. Feed it full loads and get the most out of it when you have mastered the air shut down timing/routine. This has been my experience. Let us know how it goes.

Yes. What moresnow said. Load'er up and get the air shut down sooner. Oak will give you longer burn times. Let it eat the smoke slowly...

moresnow · Jan 15, 2019

T-roy_ said:
View attachment 238290
Yes. What moresnow said. Loader up and get the air shut down sooner. Oak will give you longer burn times. Let it eat the smoke slowly...

Now thars a proper load!

Doneill · Oct 17, 2021

chuckmunch said:
Hey guys I finally got my stove up and running this past weekend! A big thanks to all of your posts! You guys really helped me out a lot!

To those of you who have this same stove, I got a question about the burn times ect. I loaded the stove with some of that stuff you get bundled at the grocery store. The burn time was about 4 hours or so with about 4-5 medium to large splits. I then mixed it with some birch, a tad more expensive and I was thinking it would increase the burn time, nope. I saw on the previous post that this probably won't work, just as I type this message. It seems to want to run up to about 750+ degrees stove top with flue temps at around 600 degrees on the probe mounted about 20" over the flue collar on the stove. The secondaries are burning strong at 500, after I shut the air off completely, she still rises to those temps. The stove is probably loaded at about 50 percent and can handle a lot more wood, but I know how that will turn out if I pack it.. or I'm guessing. I asked Drolet about this and they said that I may be having an overdraft issue. Which may make sense because my chimney is 7" and is reduced to the 6" stove pipe.

So I'm thinking of taking this apart and installing the selkirk dsp6dk-1 damper. I saw some reviews saying this isn't necessary to get long burn times and control the fire more. But from what I can tell, I was out of options when the air was all the way closed on the stove. Any thoughts?

Just in case the link above doesn't work, here it is again. This video shows the stove after the peak... but I think still too hot?? I am new to wood burning so maybe not?

I know this is an old thread but I have found that a flue damper at the stove exit was imperative to make this stove work properly (I might have too much draft). I can have smaller fires and still keep the flue temps in range and it lasts much longer. I can finally get the right burn.

begreen · Oct 17, 2021

Several Canadian stoves are easy breathing. This works well for the one story chimney installations, but once the flue height is greater than 25' a flue damper can be needed.

Drolet HT2000 DIY Installation

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