2011 BK Princess bypass plate crack

[BKPrincess2011]

When changing the bypass gasket, I discovered a crack where the gasket fits in the groove. It is bent down in that area and I’m concerned even the new gasket won’t seal it completely when bypass is closed. Any suggestions on repairing this?

 

[Highbeam]

This is a bad deal, in my opinion the Achilles heel of this stove. Your bypass gasket retainers have failed. Some would say melted away. This would be no problem if the relatively thin retainers were bolted in and replaceable but no, you need to have new ones welded in which sounds simple enough but their position must be very precise. Stove removal and flipping it upside down is recommended. Also the high cost and low likelihood of finding a mobile welder willing to do this work.

Are you a welder? You’ll need new parts from BK.

My 2012 model did the same thing but no crack. I was able to straighten them from below with a bottle jack. I don’t know why this happens but at least in my case there was no “incident” of overheating or anything.

If I were you. Right now. I would set a 4x6 across the bottom of the firebox to spread the load and use a bottle jack to push that thing straight.

Great pics of the problem.

 

[BKPrincess2011]

This is a bad deal, in my opinion the Achilles heel of this stove. Your bypass gasket retainers have failed. Some would say melted away. This would be no problem if the relatively thin retainers were bolted in and replaceable but no, you need to have new ones welded in which sounds simple enough but their position must be very precise. Stove removal and flipping it upside down is recommended. Also the high cost and low likelihood of finding a mobile welder willing to do this work.

Are you a welder? You’ll need new parts from BK.

My 2012 model did the same thing but no crack. I was able to straighten them from below with a bottle jack. I don’t know why this happens but at least in my case there was no “incident” of overheating or anything.

If I were you. Right now. I would set a 4x6 across the bottom of the firebox to spread the load and use a bottle jack to push that thing straight.

Great pics of the problem.

Ok. Thanks for the help. I’ll try the “jack it up” method. To seal the crack would something like this sealer pictured be appropriate or leave as is?

 

[Highbeam]

Ok. Thanks for the help. I’ll try the “jack it up” method. To seal the crack would something like this sealer pictured be appropriate or leave as is?

Leave the crack alone. That retainer got hot enough to melt steel so anything short of a weld will fail. The gasket, once properly held in place by the straightened retainers is well enough supported to make a seal against the bypass plate. Honestly, the crack might even help you straighten this.

Go slow, you don't want to overbend the bracket too high. Focus the jack force on the inboard side of the failed bracket towards the middle of the bypass opening since the weld attaching that bracket will be like a hinge. It doesn't need to be perfect but pretty close. The new gasket will just compress a little less in the area that you don't get fully straightened. Be sure to use plenty of the special adhesive in the low area if you can't get it all straight.

I couldn't get it perfect but it passes the dollar bill test and hasn't sagged again since.

Oh and use a block of lumber that is as wide as the firebox floor. The force will tend to lift the stove top up and flex the firebox floor if you don't spread the footing out.

 

[BKPrincess2011]

Leave the crack alone. That retainer got hot enough to melt steel so anything short of a weld will fail. The gasket, once properly held in place by the straightened retainers is well enough supported to make a seal against the bypass plate. Honestly, the crack might even help you straighten this.

Go slow, you don't want to overbend the bracket too high. Focus the jack force on the inboard side of the failed bracket towards the middle of the bypass opening since the weld attaching that bracket will be like a hinge. It doesn't need to be perfect but pretty close. The new gasket will just compress a little less in the area that you don't get fully straightened. Be sure to use plenty of the special adhesive in the low area if you can't get it all straight.

I couldn't get it perfect but it passes the dollar bill test and hasn't sagged again since.

Oh and use a block of lumber that is as wide as the firebox floor. The force will tend to lift the stove top up and flex the firebox floor if you don't spread the footing out.

Ok got it. Thanks for your help.