2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

[BKVP]

I'd like to address the subject of retainers in the bypass. Checking our company wide operating system, we shipped 4 sets of these in North America in 2017. I won't and can't tell you how many units we sell each year, but clearly the likelihood of damaging the retainers is infintismal when you look at the age of the four units that required them.

This is not to say that Highbeam is wrong, because they can be damaged if abused. However, they are much more robust that you might think.

Lastly, in the past 3-4 years, we have both modified and improved the method by which they are installed (welded) in place.

Earlier designs did not have as many contact points and recessed areas for welds.

Back to raking leaves...

 

[kf6hap]

Use a gasket! Don' believe the seller, believe BKVP!

On the Ashford 30.1 the cost of the cat is around 300$ on Amazon and they say that we do not need a new gasket...

 

[Blazing]

Hey guys - we have a BK insert. I’ve been contemplating buying one of those small steamers to rest on top and heat some water and add some fragrance to the air. Anyone have advice against this?


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Its your stove so take what I say as an opinion. A humidifier will do a better job for moisture and a candle for smell. I also don't want a rust spot on my stove but that's me.

 

[Rangerbait]

I'd like to address the subject of retainers in the bypass. Checking our company wide operating system, we shipped 4 sets of these in North America in 2017. I won't and can't tell you how many units we sell each year, but clearly the likelihood of damaging the retainers is infintismal when you look at the age of the four units that required them.

This is not to say that Highbeam is wrong, because they can be damaged if abused. However, they are much more robust that you might think.

Lastly, in the past 3-4 years, we have both modified and improved the method by which they are installed (welded) in place.

Earlier designs did not have as many contact points and recessed areas for welds.

Back to raking leaves...

I appreciate the feedback, VEEP...I try to follow the burning procedures to the letter, but I also have 3 boys under 6, so there's no shortage of distraction around here. I'll check for a proper seal once it warms up a bit and I'm not burning around the clock.

 

[SuperJ]

So you double stacked the gasket at the suspected leak points only? You can see in my picture that on the hinge side there isn't much gasket filling the groove between the metal ridges. I suspect the gasket should be on top of the outer ridge on the inside of the door to get a good seal.

Another oddity is that my ash plug seems to be way too far back. It drops the ash right onto the back edge of the ash tray. My wife had heard horror stories from her friends about how ash dust was going to be the bane of her existence if we got a stove. I assured her the one we were getting had a good ash drawer system so we wouldn't make a mess shoveling.
Overall I really like the Ashford, nothing comes close to how it runs.

Just an update, I looked at the label on the back and it looks like my stove is from August 2015, so somehow I got a 2 year old, new old stock stove. That might put me within the ash pan issue window.

 

[Ashful]

Just an update, I looked at the label on the back and it looks like my stove is from August 2015, so somehow I got a 2 year old, new old stock stove. That might put me within the ash pan issue window.

It's really not tough to tell. Remove the plug, and stick your hand down there. If the back of the plug hole is nearly perfectly flush with the back wall of the pan, you're one of the lucky few.

 

[redktmrider]

It's really not tough to tell. Remove the plug, and stick your hand down there. If the back of the plug hole is nearly perfectly flush with the back wall of the pan, you're one of the lucky few.

If that is the "defective pan", what is the approximate distance of the back of the plug hole to the back wall of the pan in the proper pan?

 

[Ashful]

If that is the "defective pan", what is the approximate distance of the back of the plug hole to the back wall of the pan in the proper pan?

Is didn’t measure, but it looks like 2 - 3 inches. Of course, mine is a retrofit on the original mistake, I’m not sure if that matches current production.

 

[redktmrider]

Is didn’t measure, but it looks like 2 - 3 inches. Of course, mine is a retrofit on the original mistake, I’m not sure if that matches current production.

Thanks!
I'm trying to make sure which pan I have before crying wolf. My pan matches the description you gave of the defective pan. I'll call the shop I bought the stove from on Monday. You made it sound like the refit wasn't to hard.

 

[kf6hap]

Hmmm. My Ashford spills ashes behind the pan too but although I prefer to shovel once my wife might prefer the ash drawer when I am absent. Do you go through the stove store or BK directly?

 

[Ashful]

Hmmm. My Ashford spills ashes behind the pan too but although I prefer to shovel once my wife might prefer the ash drawer when I am absent. Do you go through the stove store or BK directly?

Well, given the design of this pan, it's possible your ash spillage has nothing to do with this issue. Bottom line, if you put too much in the pan, the top of the frame will strike off the excess as you withdraw the pan, and leave ashes on the floor. That's just typical of any stove with a pan in a drawer.

This issue of the mismatched pan frame is specifically those few stoves that were made with the pan too far forward for the plug location. Like I said before, the plug would be literally flush (zero point zero inches) with the rear wall of the pan.

As to your question, you can message BKVP thru this forum, and he'll give you an answer on this.

You made it sound like the refit wasn't to hard.

In my case, it ended up being very easy, but you may not be quite as lucky. The pan frame fits snugly between the four legs, and given manufacturing tolerances, it's likely you might have to loosen the leg bolts to permit enough slop to get the old pan frame out and the new one in. In fact, their procedure calls for this, jacking up the stove, supporting it on cribbing, and removing the front legs. In my case, I found the new frames were so dead-on matched to the old frames that I was able to do the swap without having to lift the stove or loosen the legs.

Basic procedure was to lift off the top, loosen a few bolts holding the sides on, lift them off, and then you have access to the pan frame mounting hardware. Drop old pan frame, swap cast front lip to new pan frame, install, and then re-hang sides and top. Took me less than 30 minutes per stove.

Note 1: Their procedure says you only need to loosen the top two hanger bolts on the side castings, the lower ones should be loose enough to just lift off. However, three of the four lower rear bolts were snugged between my two stoves, and had to be loosened before the side castings would come off. Be sure to not go tugging and prying, before checking them, you don't want to snap a casting. You'll need a thin open end (7/16") wrench, to get at them.

Note 2: Remember to remove your pan lid from the bottom of the drawer in the old frame before throwing it in the garbage, I forgot one of mine, and now it's gone! I can't say I used it very often, but it was a nice thing to have, on certain occasions.

 

[redktmrider]

Note 2: Remember to remove your pan lid from the bottom of the drawer in the old frame before throwing it in the garbage, I forgot one of mine, and now it's gone!

I store my lid behind the behind the stove so it’s not so blasted hot when I use it.

 

[robk]

Its your stove so take what I say as an opinion. A humidifier will do a better job for moisture and a candle for smell. I also don't want a rust spot on my stove but that's me.

Thanks. I think I’ll just go candle route.

 

[Highbeam]

I'd like to address the subject of retainers in the bypass. Checking our company wide operating system, we shipped 4 sets of these in North America in 2017. I won't and can't tell you how many units we sell each year, but clearly the likelihood of damaging the retainers is infintismal when you look at the age of the four units that required them.

This is not to say that Highbeam is wrong, because they can be damaged if abused. However, they are much more robust that you might think.

Lastly, in the past 3-4 years, we have both modified and improved the method by which they are installed (welded) in place.

Earlier designs did not have as many contact points and recessed areas for welds.

Back to raking leaves...

Thank you for the redesigned weldment but bolt in retainers would have really been nice!

Can you please tell us how not to abuse the stove to cause this failure? Your manual tells us to shut the loading door asap after ignition, close the bypass when cat goes active, and then don't stall the cat. Very simple operation with almost no chance of abuse due to a good design and thermostat that prevent overfire of cat and stove.

Yes, I feel insulted by your public abuse accusation. My retainers melted right next to the cat and I never abused this stove or sought replacement parts. Heck, I've coached many on how to operate this stove.

 

[BKVP]

Thank you for the redesigned weldment but bolt in retainers would have really been nice!

Can you please tell us how not to abuse the stove to cause this failure? Your manual tells us to shut the loading door asap after ignition, close the bypass when cat goes active, and then don't stall the cat. Very simple operation with almost no chance of abuse due to a good design and thermostat that prevent overfire of cat and stove.

Yes, I feel insulted by your public abuse accusation. My retainers melted right next to the cat and I never abused this stove or sought replacement parts. Heck, I've coached many on how to operate this stove.

Don't feel insulted. As I wrote, they have been improved. Both the way we make them and the way they are welded in place.

Someday you want to replace them, you know I'll see to your satisfaction.

 

[Highbeam]

Don't feel insulted. As I wrote, they have been improved. Both the way we make them and the way they are welded in place.

Someday you want to replace them, you know I'll see to your satisfaction.

Thank you Chris. Please speak up if any of us are erroneously describing how to run these bk stoves. We want to keep the aliens happy so that they keep delivering this awesome performance.

 

[kf6hap]

My smoke alarm won't let me overfire the stove. It would not let me overfire any of my other stoves either as the flue paint smokes at 900F. Overfire safety "feature".

Next spring when the stove cools down, I will check out the ash drawer.

 

[Toiler]

To vent or not to vent?

We are in year two with our King. Being a1970.'s house is not very well sealed. The stove will go out if I have it burning too slow or low if it is warm out. It seems to work fine as is, but curious if installing a vent, is worthwhile.

Also, the cat goes into the inactive zone when the wood is low, and we let the fire go out. Often at night or when at work, and we don't want to keep the fire going. Does this cause any of you problems with clogging?

 

[Highbeam]

To vent or not to vent?

We are in year two with our King. Being a1970.'s house is not very well sealed. The stove will go out if I have it burning too slow or low if it is warm out. It seems to work fine as is, but curious if installing a vent, is worthwhile.

Also, the cat goes into the inactive zone when the wood is low, and we let the fire go out. Often at night or when at work, and we don't want to keep the fire going. Does this cause any of you problems with clogging?

You're trying to run it too low and stalling the cat. Turn it up a little bit until you mostly run out of fuel before the cat meter falls to inactive.

I like outdoor combustion air supplies. Everyone should have one in my opinion. But, it won't solve your cat stall problem.

When the weather cools off a bit it will be easier to keep the cat active.

Oh and you're right, it is problematic to stall the cat. Creosote will set up on the cat instead of being burned which can cause cloggage.

 

[Tumpin' Wood]

We installed an Ashford 30.1 in our cottage in the summer of 2016 but have not been there to use it a lot. The probe thermometer is 18" above the stove top and reads 800*F plus when the thermostat is wide open (6 o'clock). When turned down so that no flames are visible (3 to 4 o'clock) it reads around 400*F. Based on comments about Blaze Kings producing relatively low flue temperatures, I am guessing that mine are unusually high and that I am losing heat up the stovepipe. I suspect that I have too much draft.

The cottage leaks lots of air to the stove room and is about 1050 sq. ft. We have ICC double wall stovepipe and class a chimney as follows:
- Stovepipe straight up almost 4' off the stove top to a 30* offset
- Angles up 4 plus feet to a 30* offset
- Connects to 10' of class a chimney at the ceiling support box

We are burning ash that tested 14 to 20 percent two summers ago.

My questions (finally):

1. Am I correct that my flue temperatures are high?
2. Would addition of an adapter at the stove top reduce leaks and draft?
3. Do I need a damper to slow the draft?

 

[Heftiger]

Ok @Ashful and @BKVP
Finally needed to empty some ash today. Here’s what the pan looks like. Back of hole lines up with back edge of tray. Is this what you’re taking about?

 

[SuperJ]

We installed an Ashford 30.1 in our cottage in the summer of 2016 but have not been there to use it a lot. The probe thermometer is 18" above the stove top and reads 800*F plus when the thermostat is wide open (6 o'clock). When turned down so that no flames are visible (3 to 4 o'clock) it reads around 400*F. Based on comments about Blaze Kings producing relatively low flue temperatures, I am guessing that mine are unusually high and that I am losing heat up the stovepipe. I suspect that I have too much draft.

The cottage leaks lots of air to the stove room and is about 1050 sq. ft. We have ICC double wall stovepipe and class a chimney as follows:
- Stovepipe straight up almost 4' off the stove top to a 30* offset
- Angles up 4 plus feet to a 30* offset
- Connects to 10' of class a chimney at the ceiling support box

We are burning ash that tested 14 to 20 percent two summers ago.

My questions (finally):

1. Am I correct that my flue temperatures are high?
2. Would addition of an adapter at the stove top reduce leaks and draft?
3. Do I need a damper to slow the draft?

I'm guessing that since you have decent ICC double wall (like me), it might just be holding the heat in nicely. This should help to maintain a good draft at low temps/flow rates and keep creosote deposits to a minimum. I suspect if you actually do have a problem you will notice higher wood consumption and reduced burn times. Can you you load it up, turn it and get a 24+ burn? If so you are probably fine in my newby humble opinion.
EDIT: I'd be surprised if your chimney could overdraft, (unless you had an air leak) since it's not overly long, and has some bends.

 

[Ashful]

Ok @Ashful and @BKVP
Finally needed to empty some ash today. Here’s what the pan looks like. Back of hole lines up with back edge of tray. Is this what you’re taking about?

View attachment 215730

Yep... that's it! Send BKVP a private message, and I'm sure he'll address it. Every company makes a mistake, here and there, it's what they do to fix it that counts.

 

[Highbeam]

We installed an Ashford 30.1 in our cottage in the summer of 2016 but have not been there to use it a lot. The probe thermometer is 18" above the stove top and reads 800*F plus when the thermostat is wide open (6 o'clock). When turned down so that no flames are visible (3 to 4 o'clock) it reads around 400*F. Based on comments about Blaze Kings producing relatively low flue temperatures, I am guessing that mine are unusually high and that I am losing heat up the stovepipe. I suspect that I have too much draft.

The cottage leaks lots of air to the stove room and is about 1050 sq. ft. We have ICC double wall stovepipe and class a chimney as follows:
- Stovepipe straight up almost 4' off the stove top to a 30* offset
- Angles up 4 plus feet to a 30* offset
- Connects to 10' of class a chimney at the ceiling support box

We are burning ash that tested 14 to 20 percent two summers ago.

My questions (finally):

1. Am I correct that my flue temperatures are high?
2. Would addition of an adapter at the stove top reduce leaks and draft?
3. Do I need a damper to slow the draft?

My flue probe temps match yours.

 

[Heftiger]

Yep... that's it! Send BKVP a private message, and I'm sure he'll address it. Every company makes a mistake, here and there, it's what they do to fix it that counts.

Done. Thanks for the quick response.