2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread PART 2 (Everything BK)

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I have two Ashford 30.1’s. One is on a 15’ chimney, and the other on close to 30’ of chimney. Both work fine. In theory, the tall one should allow me to dial lower at warm outside temps, but since I avoid running the short stack on warmer days (it’s in a part of the house with lower heating load, so I don’t need it), I don’t have any issues with it.

I’d say that if you can get more than 18 feet of pipe, I’d not worry much about the exact height.


Thank you.

From stovetop to the cap it will be around 22'
I should be golden then!!
 
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What are you trying to achieve?

My bk insert air wash at the top of the glass is open across the top. SOME other manufactures advertise a perforated plate similar to the metal plate with holes that cover the combustor. I wondering if this would benefit the door glass on my bk insert?This would be an easy fix for me to do any input here? Its not an issue to me just wondering!

Perforated sheet metal might tend to equalize the airflow across the glass. This is certain to obstruct the combustion air flow and change the way the stove operates dramatically. Most sheet punched metal is a >50% "obstruction". It would have to be heat resistant not galvanized as the metallic fumes could damage the cat. Also you don't want to cause turbulence that will make the flames lick the glass constantly as bad things might happen. Interesting idea though. Will it prevent the classic BK dark corners? Perhaps. If it does, smoke smell might go away too.
 
Finally got the mantle shield in yesterday and got the insert into its resting spot and hooked up. Just need to put the transition plate on top and the class a pipe and cap. Hoping for a Saturday first fire.

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Lopi Rockport
Blaze King Ashford 25
 
What are you trying to achieve?



Perforated sheet metal might tend to equalize the airflow across the glass. This is certain to obstruct the combustion air flow and change the way the stove operates dramatically. Most sheet punched metal is a >50% "obstruction". It would have to be heat resistant not galvanized as the metallic fumes could damage the cat. Also you don't want to cause turbulence that will make the flames lick the glass constantly as bad things might happen. Interesting idea though. Will it prevent the classic BK dark corners? Perhaps. If it does, smoke smell might go away too.
What I’m trying to achieve you headed me off at the pass and my thoughts you answered darkened corners yes I know burn it on high. Who knows someday BK might be selling creosote free stoves the way technology is going now days.
 
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anyone know of a video showing a full bypass adjustment procedure? need to do it and would like to see it done. i have seen the stories of breaking the bolt. REALLY dont want to do that.

the one BK video shows a guy "just turn the bolt" and thats it. i know there is more than that.
 
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anyone know of a video showing a full bypass adjustment procedure? need to do it and would like to see it done. i have seen the stories of breaking the bolt. REALLY dont want to do that.

the one BK video shows a guy "just turn the bolt" and thats it. i know there is more than that.
We have not produced a video. You need a 7/16" open end wrench. You'll see a bolt, but under the bolt is a keeper nut. LOOSEN THE NUT BEFORE YOU TURN BOLT HEAD CLOCKWISE 1/4 TURN. Then resecure keeper nut. Do dollar bill test. Keep in mind when stove heats up, metals expand and gets tighter. If bolt does not turn easily, stop. Use penetrating oil to break free.
 
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Tech question for you all. Is it better to have 2 45's going into the stack vs a 90? Or is it more important to have a closer to 3 foot horizontal run.

I'm mocking up a jig saw puzzle here debating on going to double wall due to stack temps with this new stove....
 
Tech question for you all. Is it better to have 2 45's going into the stack vs a 90? Or is it more important to have a closer to 3 foot horizontal run.

I'm mocking up a jig saw puzzle here debating on going to double wall due to stack temps with this new stove....

Two 45’s are always preferred to a single 90. This will also reduce your horizontal run.
 
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The rod is turning with the knob I believe, I'll check it in a couple of hours.
If that’s the case, contact your dealer. You cannot repair or calibrate settings in the field. Make certain rod is also turning....rare, very to have that happen. Usually that can only happen if knob was smacked hard, driving rod out of gear it’s pressed onto.

BKVP
 
Two 45’s are always preferred to a single 90. This will also reduce your horizontal run.
I wonder if he is asking about reducing the recommended 3ft min vertical before you 90deg into a horizontal. By using 45's instead of a 90 you will have a bit less vertical run, but also less horizontal and better flow. I would think it would be worth it regardless.
 
Can you cut through a vertical wall on a 45* to allow for the thimble?
 
I wonder if he is asking about reducing the recommended 3ft min vertical before you 90deg into a horizontal. By using 45's instead of a 90 you will have a bit less vertical run, but also less horizontal and better flow. I would think it would be worth it regardless.
Correct less vertical run. I get an F for proof reading my post before sending it. Thanks ha.
 
The rod is turning with the knob I believe, I'll check it in a couple of hours.

Thanks a lot, it was the set screw. It was turning the rod just a little bit. I followed your instructions BK.

Fyi everybody the set screw on my King is an Allen wrench. Such a easy fix.

My King is in my old house and I want to move it to my new house, but think I'll need a Princess due to the area I want it in.
 
You are right about that, the way I figure it, I use to burn 6 cords, bought the Bk and dropped down to 4 cords on an average winter, every 3rd year I’m burning for labor free, if I have to buy a cat every 4th year @ $250 a pop then so be it, I’m still ahead of the game and will have plenty of time to play golf or something
What stove did you burn when you were at 6 cords? Modern day tube stove or smoke dragon?
 
What stove did you burn when you were at 6 cords? Modern day tube stove or smoke dragon?
Modern piece of Chinese junk, country hearth 2500 bought at tractor supply
 
We have not produced a video. You need a 7/16" open end wrench. You'll see a bolt, but under the bolt is a keeper nut. LOOSEN THE NUT BEFORE YOU TURN BOLT HEAD CLOCKWISE 1/4 TURN. Then resecure keeper nut. Do dollar bill test. Keep in mind when stove heats up, metals expand and gets tighter. If bolt does not turn easily, stop. Use penetrating oil to break free.

Been wrestling with my bypass for a bit this am- seems tighter, but now the bypass plate wants To jump out it’s track every time I open and close?help!

Lubricant? Best i saw was up to 1600- not enough I think?
 
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Been wrestling with my bypass for a bit this am- seems tighter, but now the bypass plate wants To jump out it’s track every time I open and close?help!

Lubricant? Best i saw was up to 1600- not enough I think?
Which model? How old?
 
Been wrestling with my bypass for a bit this am- seems tighter, but now the bypass plate wants To jump out it’s track every time I open and close?help!

Lubricant? Best i saw was up to 1600- not enough I think?

Use the copper colored high temp anti seize lubricant. It’s thick grease. Apply a thin layer to the whole loop where the operating rod might touch. Use your finger. It will burn off and leave behind a lubricating powder.
 
Been wrestling with my bypass for a bit this am- seems tighter, but now the bypass plate wants To jump out it’s track every time I open and close?help!

Lubricant? Best i saw was up to 1600- not enough I think?
Which model? How old?

Ashford - one of the first off the line.
 
Some lube seems to have done the trick- thanks.

Sooteated the liner, cleaned the fire box, removed cleaned and inspected cat. Of course I think the bypass is a bit tighter now, will see how it goes.
 
When you took cat out, 2 things.

1) Were the two stainless retainers, one left one right?

2) Did you wrap cat with new gasket?
 
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