2018-19 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)

[bholler]

I just took a peak at the stove and yup I like the look of the backward proportions as far as the 30 hr burn times, it’s not necessarily the length of burn, it’s the ultra low burn rate I’m looking for. It’s very convenient in the shoulder seasons. It’s easier to have it burn low for 30hrs and not overheat the house vs starting many small fires over that same time period to avoid overheating the house. I load the stove to the gills, get it cranking, turn it down and forget about it for a few days.

What do you do if it warms up during that time? In the shoulder season with my regecy over 30 hours i would typically start maybe 2 fires. Not a big deal and no overheating

 

[ratsrepus]

I just took a peak at the stove and yup I like the look of the backward proportions as far as the 30 hr burn times, it’s not necessarily the length of burn, it’s the ultra low burn rate I’m looking for. It’s very convenient in the shoulder seasons. It’s easier to have it burn low for 30hrs and not overheat the house vs starting many small fires over that same time period to avoid overheating the house. I load the stove to the gills, get it cranking, turn it down and forget about it for a few days.

Ala Jotul

 

[Woody harrelson]

I want to give some deserved credit to blaze king and @BKVP . Last spring I was having issues with the stoves burn rate. Normally during the shoulder seasons I could load the stove full, get the wood charred good and turn it way way down and would have no issues at all getting 30+ hour burn times. I was on my 6th shoulder season with this stove so I know it’s normal characteristics. Well maybe 10 times during that time the load would either burn up prematurely or the cat would stall with the thermostat at a setting that never stalls the cat normally. After troubleshooting with bkvp, we came to the decision to try a new stat. The stove is 4 years old now and they sent me out a new stat for free, no questions asked. It’s rare nowadays to get customer service like this and for that alone I will always own a blaze king. When it’s time to burn I will see if the issue is resolved or not.

 

[Woody harrelson]

What do you do if it warms up during that time? In the shoulder season with my regecy over 30 hours i would typically start maybe 2 fires. Not a big deal and no overheating

I normally keep an eye on the forecast. If that situation occurs where it might be warm on day 2, I won’t load it up quite as much.

 

[Alpine1]

Due to my training and former work as a designer i am just as picky about aesthetics as she is

My wife is a doctor in art history. I don’t know how it translates in US school program: she studied art history at the university of Venice for 5 years. I can’t compete, even though I’m a graphic designer. If she says the Ashford is the nicest one, I oblige. Happy wife, happy life. And after all, I wanted a BK and I got one in the sitting room.

 

[bholler]

My wife is a doctor in art history. I don’t know how it translates in US school program: she studied art history at the university of Venice for 5 years. I can’t compete, even though I’m a graphic designer. If she says the Ashford is the nicest one, I oblige. Happy wife, happy life. And after all, I wanted a BK and I got one in the sitting room.

I like the ashford and for our old house i would have chosen it. But for the new house if i do buy a bk it will be a chinook

 

[Ashful]

I’m a pickup truck guy not a corvette guy. I purchase things that could be the most useful to me, not necessarily how pretty they are.

No one told me you had to be one or the other. I own both a sports car and a pickup truck, and a pair of Ashfords.

 

[webby3650]

No one told me you had to be one or the other. I own both a sports car and a pickup truck, and a pair of Ashfords.

I’ve got an Ashford, a Princess, a Woodstock and a pickup truck. I’m not sure where I fit in now...

 

[Woody harrelson]

No one told me you had to be one or the other. I own both a sports car and a pickup truck, and a pair of Ashfords.

That’s what’s great about this wonderful country. You have the freedom to do or have most anything you want and be whoever you want to be. Absolutely nothing wrong with sports cars, just not my thing

 

[Woody harrelson]

My luck I would be cruising in my sports car and would pass the most beautiful pile of black locust or white oak cut into 16 inch rounds with a sign on saying free for the taking. I would rush home to drop off the sports car and grab the truck and by the time I returned it would be gone. So to avoid that I cruise around in my pickup and leave the sports car at the dealer for someone else to purchase.

 

[Poindexter]

Since doing the tree trimming, has the draft improved at all?

Yes, my draft is improved. I removed a tree this summer at the end of my house that violated 3-2-10. Last night, outdoor ambients in the mid +40s dF, I had enough draft to turn the Tstat down below the pointy end of the swoosh into the unlabeled zone. Cat stayed about halfway up into the active zone, no stall. +/- about negative 1/3 throttle.

If I have too much draft in the depth of winter I will look at taking some height off my stack next summer, but that is months away.

 

[BKVP]

Yes, my draft is improved. I removed a tree this summer at the end of my house that violated 3-2-10. Last night, outdoor ambients in the mid +40s dF, I had enough draft to turn the Tstat down below the pointy end of the swoosh into the unlabeled zone. Cat stayed about halfway up into the active zone, no stall. +/- about negative 1/3 throttle.

If I have too much draft in the depth of winter I will look at taking some height off my stack next summer, but that is months away.

Or plant some fast growing trees.

 

[Poindexter]

Or plant some fast growing trees.

I know perfectly well you can't endorse any action not covered in the manual. If I have too much draft in colder weather this season I can a) plant fast growing trees, b) reduce stack height (not in manual) or c) install key damper (also not in manual).

By April 2019 with even my trees obeying 3-2-10 I should be able to say 15' 6" of stack height gives really nice long burns in shoulder seasons and doesn't provide too much draft until outdoor temps get below _____ some number. I suspect I will be fine down to -20dF at least.

I am much more likely to reduce stack height giving away some shoulder season burn time rather than deal with the added complexity of a key damper. The weather will be what it will be, I have the gear to be outdoors at -50dF for 16 hours or so, daily; but my motivation to do so is very low. Thankfully I have a very good ongoing relationship with my local dealer.

 

[BKVP]

Let’s talk (chat) about option “C”. In the 2015 NSPS (EPA Rule), it specifically addresses to legality of a manufacturer or commercial owner (retailer) of advising a consumer to operate a stove in any manner or application in which it was not tested. Anything that can alter the tested burn rates would be illegal. On a few occasions I have had EPA staff call and inquire about the use of dampers. Questions like, how many folks ask about using one or how many a year do we sell etc. We do not sell any because our units do not need them. But, they have also called many others, such a retailer’s and asked the same types of questions.

To be very clear, we do not test under real life conditions anyway. Most, 90% of stoves, are tested with dimensional lumber called cribs and we have very complicated and manageable chimney systems (dilution tunnels).

Using a damper could result in a lower burn rate, lower than tested and that could result in dirtier than tested emissions....at least so on paper and in a lab.

So you won’t find the mention of the use of a damper in our manuals for that reason alone. And for those that read manuals for a living, don’t list any that do!

 

[showrguy]

Let’s talk (chat) about option “C”. In the 2015 NSPS (EPA Rule), it specifically addresses to legality of a manufacturer or commercial owner (retailer) of advising a consumer to operate a stove in any manner or application in which it was not tested. Anything that can alter the tested burn rates would be illegal. On a few occasions I have had EPA staff call and inquire about the use of dampers. Questions like, how many folks ask about using one or how many a year do we sell etc. We do not sell any because our units do not need them. But, they have also called many others, such a retailer’s and asked the same types of questions.

To be very clear, we do not test under real life conditions anyway. Most, 90% of stoves, are tested with dimensional lumber called cribs and we have very complicated and manageable chimney systems (dilution tunnels).

Using a damper could result in a lower burn rate, lower than tested and that could result in dirtier than tested emissions....at least so on paper and in a lab.

So you won’t find the mention of the use of a damper in our manuals for that reason alone. And for those that read manuals for a living, don’t list any that do!

I had way too much draft in my 35' stack, installed a key damper, closed as far as it'll go, I still have too much draft..
This winter I'll have 2 key dampers stacked together, that should get me within spec of what you guys recommend ...

 

[bholler]

I had way too much draft in my 35' stack, installed a key damper, closed as far as it'll go, I still have too much draft..
This winter I'll have 2 key dampers stacked together, that should get me within spec of what you guys recommend ...

I ran 2 dampers in my last house that had 38' of chimney as well. I rarely needed the second one but it was noce to have when it got really cold out and my draft got stronger. This house i dont have one at only 19'

 

[MissMac]

Lit the first fire of the season this morning. Got out of bed and got a disgruntled “i’m cold” from the better half, so put a half load in the stove and got ‘er rippin. Have a bunch of Manitoba maple to burn this fall - curious to see what sort of BTUs i get out of it. Thinking it will be similar to poplar - a good shoulder season wood.

 

[chemie]

Hi Everyone,
I posted this in other thread but I thought I should move it to here since it is related with BK.
Last Spring, I was able to obtain kiln dried white oak rips from a flooring store for free to burn in my fireplace.Since they were too dry and thin, they burned vigorously without lasting much. I still have some in my garage and I think I can obtain a lot more for free if I can use them in my pre-ordered BKAshford 25 .Since they are very small in diameter but regular shaped, I was thinking to stack them together to fill about half or one third of the fire box with them and fill the rest with regular size of split firewood of oak.Since they are kiln dried, I can store them in the garage . We have limited space of backyard for wood storage.

If I am not mistaken someone mentioned in past threads that BKVP says it is OK to burn kiln dried lumber, pallets which also don’t have much of a diameter as compared to
traditional firewood in a BK stove. I was reading the thread in a subway but now cant find that thread.

Do you think I can burn them safely providing efficient heating in BK Ashford 25?
Thanks in advance for the feedbacks.

Pics are attached.

 

[kennyp2339]

As long as there not treated in any way its good to go, the t-stat will keep the flames in check (no over fire worry) If you continue to burn smaller diameter ultra dry stuff you will need to periodically check your door gasket to make sure the door is snug (over fire dangers)

 

[Poindexter]

Last Spring, I was able to obtain kiln dried white oak rips from a flooring store for free to burn in my fireplace.Since they were too dry and thin, they burned vigorously without lasting much... if I can use them in my pre-ordered BKAshford 25 Since they are kiln dried...Do you think I can burn them safely providing efficient heating in BK Ashford 25?

I am gonna say probably not.

You should be able to download the manual for your incoming burner as a .pdf from this link:

http://www.blazeking.com/EN/wood-ashford25.php

Most likely there is some verbiage in there about not burning large quantities of small pieces of kiln dried lumber.

Very dry wood, under 11% especially, gives off a lot of particles qucikly, so the combustor can be overwhelmed really with more incoming food than it can actually eat.

I do have a box in the garage of kiln dried scraps, 2x4 and etc, no paint, no plastic, no glue. I am willing to burn small quantities of it at cold starts. I sometimes fill the back two thirds of my firebox with regular cordwood and build a log cabin looking thing with the kiln dried at the front right under the combustor to help get the combustor hot quick.

I am not sure where the line is between small amount is OK and 1/3 box or 1/4 box is too much. Probably varies with install and draft. I like my little pieces to be pretty well burned down to coals before I engage my combustor.

 

[kennyp2339]

I am not sure where the line is between small amount is OK and 1/3 box or 1/4 box is too much. Probably varies with install and draft. I like my little pieces to be pretty well burned down to coals before I engage my combustor.

I don't understand the logic behind the thinking with this one, maybe you can help me with it. I've ran my BK with 20 bio bricks in a load, the burn was very uniform and nearly 24hrs, this was because the heat generated in the firebox kept the t-stat in check which is the air control when set at a lower burn level, bio bricks are like 6-8% moisture content. What the difference with that and the small woodsplits if the air control dial in on the low end?
I do get the whole off gassing fast part, but again that's if you let the whole load go ablaze then turn it down way low. BTW for those reading this with regular air controlled stoves and not bk's with a good functioning t-stat and door gasket do not do this, you will break your stove and over fire it.

 

[webby3650]

I don't understand the logic behind the thinking with this one, maybe you can help me with it. I've ran my BK with 20 bio bricks in a load, the burn was very uniform and nearly 24hrs, this was because the heat generated in the firebox kept the t-stat in check which is the air control when set at a lower burn level, bio bricks are like 6-8% moisture content. What the difference with that and the small woodsplits if the air control dial in on the low end?
I do get the whole off gassing fast part, but again that's if you let the whole load go ablaze then turn it down way low. BTW for those reading this with regular air controlled stoves and not bk's with a good functioning t-stat and door gasket do not do this, you will break your stove and over fire it.

It’s just a typical disclaimer I’d bet. I’ve done similar things as well as a whole lot of bio bricks with no trouble. In the event of a parts failure, BK would in no way want to responsible , so they obviously aren’t going to say it’s fine to do.

 

[chemie]

It’s just a typical disclaimer I’d bet. I’ve done similar things as well as a whole lot of bio bricks with no trouble. In the event of a parts failure, BK would in no way want to responsible , so they obviously aren’t going to say it’s fine to do.

I still couldn’t find the thread but someone said BKVP said that it is Ok to burn kiln dried
Small pieces obtained from pallets.

 

[chemie]

As long as there not treated in any way its good to go, the t-stat will keep the flames in check (no over fire worry) If you continue to burn smaller diameter ultra dry stuff you will need to periodically check your door gasket to make sure the door is snug (over fire dangers)

They are not pressure/chemical treated.

 

[Poindexter]

I don't understand the logic behind the thinking with this one, maybe you can help me with it. I've ran my BK with 20 bio bricks in a load, the burn was very uniform and nearly 24hrs, this was because the heat generated in the firebox kept the t-stat in check which is the air control when set at a lower burn level, bio bricks are like 6-8% moisture content. What the difference with that and the small woodsplits if the air control dial in on the low end?
I do get the whole off gassing fast part, but again that's if you let the whole load go ablaze then turn it down way low. BTW for those reading this with regular air controlled stoves and not bk's with a good functioning t-stat and door gasket do not do this, you will break your stove and over fire it.

I think it is a surface area thing together with the overdry part. If you load a bunch of small pieces you can have many many square inches of wood surface on fire all at once. If you load a bunch of small dry pieces you can have many many square inches of wood surface on fire right now.

For kindling, no problem. Trying to shave some time off EPA regulated cold starts I am probably pushing limits. I think a box full of the KD white oak pictured would be asking for trouble.

Stacking half a box real tight sounds good, until one of the pieces in the middle gets hot, warps, and opens up a bunch of surface area to the flame.

Just my opinion.

FWIW the biobricks I have burnt previously were quite dry, but the available surface area for combustion was about the same as a split of cord wood.