(3) low fires first, break in that stove and paint, after three burns (that progressively get bigger with more fuel) then off to the races.Now we’re cooking! Man I hope my draft isn’t too strong. 22’ flue is one long run.
(3) low fires first, break in that stove and paint, after three burns (that progressively get bigger with more fuel) then off to the races.Now we’re cooking! Man I hope my draft isn’t too strong. 22’ flue is one long run.
i have had this happen a good handful of times as well, have not lubed anything yet. Good to hear it’s working for you.I've had exactly this happen. The stat will be just a little sticky and keep the stove burning hotter than it should for that setting. Barely touching the dial (not even turning it...just a bit of pressure) is enough to 'motivate' it to click shut. I now take the stat cover off regularly (e.g., pre/early season cleaning, mid-season cleaning, and late season), vacuum any dust out, and apply a few drops of light lubricating oil to the pivots of the air door.
I believe I saw a recommendation for high-temp antiseize to lube the stat? I could also see that potentially gumming things up if it collected dust. I'd be interested in knowing recommendations on what to lube the stat with?
EDIT: As Highbeam indicated below and as the big sticker on the t-stat cover says: there are no user serviceable parts. So please don't take the above t-stat clean&lube as instruction...only an anecdote on what worked for me. I'm sure your dealer would be happy to advise or service. Proceed with caution and understand what you are doing and the risks.
(3) low fires first, break in that stove and paint, after three burns (that progressively get bigger with more fuel) then off to the races.
Mid Jan things should be changing for us east of the MississippiSounds good. Only problem it will be 65 this Saturday in Tennessee! WTH For once I’m wanting a polar vortex to test my new toy!
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3 small fires? Where’d you get that info? It’s not a cast iron stove or soapstone. It’s not a bad idea, just not necessary on a steel stove.(3) low fires first, break in that stove and paint, after three burns (that progressively get bigger with more fuel) then off to the races.
I know you meant insulated liner. The test agencies have hashed "modify" out over the years. I'm certain that there much more that was done by the labs to come up with the method.How do you install an insert and liner in a ul listed fireplace without modifying it?
I meant an insert and liner. I insulate absolutely every liner I install so for me insulated is a given.I know you meant insulated liner. The test agencies have hashed "modify" out over the years. I'm certain that there much more that was done by the labs to come up with the method.
My invite was genuine. Our lab and lab nerds might be a fun experience and we always like input from professionals such as yourself.
Dry out the bricks from any moisture that they might have collected since being made, and I thought the paint on any stove needed the gradual warm up to cure / bake in.3 small fires? Where’d you get that info? It’s not a cast iron stove or soapstone. It’s not a bad idea, just not necessary on a steel stove.
Na, not necessary.Dry out the bricks from any moisture that they might have collected since being made, and I thought the paint on any stove needed the gradual warm up to cure / bake in.
Tour hell...we're gonna put you to work! And all manuals are a combination of what labs contribute and manufacturers approve.I meant an insert and liner. I insulate absolutely every liner I install so for me insulated is a given.
If your manual said a fireplace listed to ul127 which allows inserts to be installed I would not take any issue with it at all. Or better yet if it specified fireplaces which it it tested for use in. But it says none of that.
And the next time I am in Washington I would gladly take a tour.
I know manuals are a joint effort. I just don't know how some of the stuff gets through yours are much better than many that part really is the only part I don't like. I just don't think it is completeTour hell...we're gonna put you to work! And all manuals are a combination of what labs contribute and manufacturers approve.
Are those diesel foil?New cat supplier? New and improved? Better than Condar?
http://www.stovecombustors.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz8Dj6sbR3wIVGwytBh3IuAVvEAEYASAAEgJPlvD_BwE
Very interesting hearth add-on products.
![[Hearth.com] 2018-19 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK) [Hearth.com] 2018-19 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/237/237343-ac3e3b80634c36701c5fac679b87142d.jpg?hash=4scb-9pDmw)
Ah, yes, the old "brillo pad" cat. It pops up here every once in a while.New cat supplier?
No, it's like a luffa..very porous. Those bass turds ripped me off, never shipped my second unit and failed to respond to multiple emails.Are those diesel foil?
I put the one I got in my SIL's Dutchwest. It worked OK for a while, but I wasn't there to observe it as much as I would have if it was in my own stove at home.![[Hearth.com] 2018-19 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK) [Hearth.com] 2018-19 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/237/237345-4e87f8cf8828d76596929d4049724b1b.jpg?hash=Z7wVO57nUq)
I did an initial cleaning today after about 3 months of burning and took a pic of the crack in my cat. There is some ash in the flue for sure, but nothing too bad, and no shiny stuff yet. Stove is running well, but this is definitely a crack, and such a short time into the hours used.
Maybe the company @kf6hap linked to has a better cat for situations like mine where the draft is strong with no real way to lower it without some large project.
@BKVP is this normal use wear or is this something that is a factory defect? I know it is under warranty and am wondering if this qualifies? If you folks think so I will call my supplier.
View attachment 237316
Ah, yes, the old "brillo pad" cat. It pops up here every once in a while.No, it's like a luffa..very porous. Those bass turds ripped me off, never shipped my second unit and failed to respond to multiple emails.I put the one I got in my SIL's Dutchwest. It worked OK for a while, but I wasn't there to observe it as much as I would have if it was in my own stove at home.
I tried telling you before, that’s not a crack. Your cat is actually three square cats pushed together and you’re looking at the butt joint. I see a normal cat with one or two cell walls broken. Totally okay.
Yeah I read that post, the question is if it is supposed to come brand new this way. I said it is working, but I don't feel it should come this way and if I had ordered a new one like this I would not install it.
Are those diesel foil?
I think they are some kind of wire mesh that is then coated with catalyst. Imagine a steel wool pad, but a larger, coarser version with more space between the wires; You can see part way through the cat mesh. The smoke would certainly get a lot of "turbulence" going through there.some kind of ceramic material-from the appearance...Supposedly non clogging
Well, you could try one and report back.So they are to be ignored then?
They probably don't rip off a lot of people, not shipping the goods, but my deal was never completed.
New cat supplier? New and improved? Better than Condar?
http://www.stovecombustors.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz8Dj6sbR3wIVGwytBh3IuAVvEAEYASAAEgJPlvD_BwE
Very interesting hearth add-on products.
I have an Ashford 30.1 that I've had since February 2016.
I've been starting to have problems with my cat clogging. Last night marks the second time in about 2-3 weeks. Basically the stove runs like it is on a lower thermostat setting when it is opened up wide open. I haven't had luck trying to run it hot to burn itself out of the clog. I brushed the face with a soft brush to unclog it the last time, but I could see that there was still more ash deeper into the honeycomb. I could not get my vac in position to do any good. It looks like some compressed air would be just the thing, but I've seen the book says not to. Any suggestions?
Also, my cat has never really seemed to be that great, but it has no visual defects similar to the images in the book. It often stalls around the time the wood is about the the size of charcoal briquettes. I've had half a mind to try it for warranty a couple times.
Yes, I've got two year seasoned dry wood, a tight door, and tight bybass.
One more thing, a few times this year my stove has burned significantly hotter than the stat setting I put it on. I wake up and the house is super hot, I just barely turn the stat knob left and I hear the click of the stove shutting down right away. Any chance my stat inner-workings is getting partially seized up or something? Maybe my wood is too dry? I've had readings of 11-13 on the inside of fresh splits.
Thanks for the help guys.
I did an initial cleaning today after about 3 months of burning and took a pic of the crack in my cat. There is some ash in the flue for sure, but nothing too bad, and no shiny stuff yet. Stove is running well, but this is definitely a crack, and such a short time into the hours used.
Maybe the company @kf6hap linked to has a better cat for situations like mine where the draft is strong with no real way to lower it without some large project.
@BKVP is this normal use wear or is this something that is a factory defect? I know it is under warranty and am wondering if this qualifies? If you folks think so I will call my supplier.
View attachment 237316
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