Advice for Century Hearth model CW2500X

[BillyV]

Hi Everyone. Great forum. Been here for 5 hours straight getting a free education.

I bought a Century Hearth model CW2500X insert for my old 90+ year old fireplace. (attached pics)

I live in a ranch, 1185 sf. and want to have this as my main heat source for the winters in Chicago. ($300 + mnth. heating bills)

I got the unit on clearance for $525 from Menards.

This flex liner I want measures fine for hooking up...It is 6 inches in diameter and is 15feet in length. It is made of 316 Ti stainless steel .005 in thickness. for $259

Questions:

1) Is this thickness fine on liner?

2) Should I put the faceplate on insert or just insert into hearth and seal off damper?
I want to get maximum heat/output? I've read many mixed advice on this and was looking for some pro clarity.

3) My damper opening is about 4" and have a 6" flex liner. Is OVALIZING the liner part that comes in through flue a good idea?? Safe & efficient?

4) Most of my chimney is in side of the house, Ok not too insulate the liner?

5) Job market is bad, so trying to save $$$ and am wondering if this is best to DIY or pay someone? It seems fairly simple to install and I need to keep costs down.

6) IS THIS A GOOD UNIT FOR WHAT I'M LOOKING FOR??

Any and all advice would be appreciated. Thanks to you.

Billy

 

[mellow]

Thanks for the good pictures, helps to see what your dealing with.

This is a job that can be done on your own if your handy and don't mind jumping up on your roof to push down a liner. Btw, have you measured your flue to make sure you can fit a 6" liner down it yet?

1. .006 is preferred
2. Faceplate is for looks, you can run without it if you seal off your damper
3. Most people cut the damper out to fit the 6" liner through (will look like a U cut)
4. If your chimney is 90 years old you better insulate to meet code, you more than likely have cracked tiles
5. Answered above.
6. Do you mean you got a vermont castings century insert? (http://vc.cfm-dev.com/content/products/productdetails.cfm?id=89)

 

[cj-8_jim]

Hi Billy,
I'm in the NW suburbs of Chicago too. Today, I just bought this stove from Menards also (at the $520 clearance price). (BTW, just ignore the email I sent to you earlier with clearance questions... I found my clearance answers online).

... It is made of 316 Ti stainless steel .005 in thickness. for $259...

Where did you buy this liner? Did the $259 include the adapters and top cover?

I bought the Menards 25' chimney liner and adapters ($335)... not sure what the thickness or stainless steel type it is... I'll post when I get it.

You asked a couple of questions... as I understand from talking to a couple of fireplace dealers over the past week or two, they tell me:

Your question #2) I'm going to fabricate a block-off plate (but use the "surround" that came with the unit). Grass Roots Energy in Wauconda, IL told me that when you use the cap on top of the chimney with a full length liner, that should eliminate the need for a block-off plate, but the block-off plate will reflect some heat back down.

I'm doing it since I have an exterior chimney.

Your question #3) Lifestyle Energy in Woodstock, IL told me that "ovalizing" the liner through the damper is fine, but it is much better to cutout a section of the damper frame to reduce/eliminate the need to ovalize the liner.

Note though that my damper is 5.75", so I don't have to ovalize too much (probably why they told me it was OK). Since yours is 4", you may want to think about notching out part of the frame with a grinder. Grass Roots Energy mentioned that they do this when they do installs. Finally, everyone tells me that you don't want to damage the brick or mortar.

Your question #4) Insulating the liner is an interesting question. No one has mentioned that too me. I do know that a special loose vermiculite insulation is sold specifically for insulating chimneys between the inner firebox/flue and outer chimney brick. Not sure if this insulation is also used between a SS liner and a clay flue. I do know the stuff is very expensive.

Hope this is helpful,
Jim

 

[theheatelement]

.006 is not preferred... It is actually a marketing ploy. .005 actually costs more to make due to the cost of rerolling the metal to a thinner gauge

 

[cj-8_jim]

I bought the Menards 25' chimney liner and adapters ($335)... not sure what the thickness or stainless steel type it is... I'll post when I get it.

BTW, I ended up cancelling the Menards' liner order and purchasing from MagnaFlex on this board. The Magnaflex liner comes with a a raincap that prevents birds from nesting in the flue whereas the Menard's raincap has no screening.

Just got the liner down the chimney today. Sometime this week I'll get the insert hooked up.

 

[Lanningjw]

Bill, I had the same CFM insert as your about to install. I used it for 3 years. Your wondering if it a good insert. Yes, sounds like you got a great deal for $250. It will work and you will save money on your gas bill. It has a small fire box at 1.3 so cut your wood small. You are gonna enjoy it. The problem is with the smaller size box you do not get the longer burn times. You will have to feed that insert more often. Your gonna be OK with it, just alot more messing around.

Your gonna have to remove more of that damper to get the 6 inch SS thru it. You may evan need a 45% attachment piece to get the SS hooked up, as I did.

Your gonna be happy but in a couple of yours you can up grade and sell that insert on CL. I sold mine a month ago for $500.
The fan motor sucks and make vibrates. But your gonna be OK.
Jim

My old insert.

 

[EROHLFES]

i bought the same insert at menards. my problem is that if i close the door the fire seems to starve for air. The air lever seems effortless to move wondering is something is not hooked up?
the manual doesnt come with any drawing to show how this lever works or how it is attached. any help would be appreciated
ed

 

[Lanningjw]

Get yourself some dry wood. Stop at the gas station and buy a couple of bundles wrapped in plastic and see it that takes care of the starting problem.

 

[Fishin]

I have the same unit, just installed. The problem I have is no matter where I am in the burn process, with the dampner full open, I get smoke out the door when I reload. I do have a disclaimer though. For now, I installed it in my fireplace with a short piece of pipe directed toward my chimney dampner. Would this be the cause? I will get a liner, in time, but for now is there any remedy for this? Thanks.

 

[TMonter]

I have the same unit, just installed. The problem I have is no matter where I am in the burn process, with the dampner full open, I get smoke out the door when I reload. I do have a disclaimer though. For now, I installed it in my fireplace with a short piece of pipe directed toward my chimney dampner. Would this be the cause? I will get a liner, in time, but for now is there any remedy for this? Thanks.

The lack of liner is definitely your problem which is in fact a draft issue caused by not enough suction up the pipe to cause the stove to draft properly. Line the chimney and I guarantee it will act and perform completely different.

 

[BrotherBart]

At the very least get the connection up past the damper frame and into the first flue tile and seal around it at the flue tile.

 

[Fishin]

Thanks. Which method is the best method? As per the installation instructions, as with most inserts, you have to install a block off plate and then install pipe up into the chimney or install a full liner. Will the performance be about the same? Thanks.

 

[begreen]

It's much better to go with the full liner for a safer, better operating and easier to clean flue.

A little more information about the chimney would be good. Is the chimney tile lined? Do you know the chimney ID size? Is this an exterior chimney? If so, the liner should be insulated as well.