Baby Bear 6" not playing nice with Duravent "T"

[SmallAxe]

HI! I have been lurking on this forum for a while and found loads of helpful info thanks.
I have not seen this item covered elsewhere:

This is a new install.
I have a rear-venting Baby Bear, 6" (6" outer diameter, 5 3/4" inner) which will not mate well with the double-walled Duravent DVL 6" "T" (also a 6" outer diameter).
I was assured that the DVL would fit, but alas it does not. (same outer diameter).
Duravent does not appear to have an adapter, and It feels wrong to try and crimp the thinner inner layer of the DVL T and force it into the flue? I suppose I could do that and apply a healthy bead of chimney cement?

Any advice? Again apologies if this has been covered - I could not find.

 

[begreen]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050D9X5A/?tag=hearthamazon-20

 

[SmallAxe]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050D9X5A/?tag=hearthamazon-20

Thanks Begreen; I was hoping not to lose the valuable 6" of space. This brings my distance to combustibles closer to the wall, or forces the stove further out into the room.
Would you stay away from modifying the "T" to fit the flue? and cementing?

 

[begreen]

Crimping the inner jacket may work, but it won't be as positive a fit and the cement will most likely fall out after it has hardened. For sure, secure the tee to the flue collar with screws regardless of approach.

What is the clearance from the back of the stove to the wall now?

Moving to the Fisher forum in case someone there has an alternate solution.

 

[SmallAxe]

Thanks, missed the Fisher section.

Right now the rear of the stove is 18" from heat shield, the back of the T would be about 12" off the heat shield.
If I added the 6" adapter, it would put me at only 6" or so...

 

[begreen]

DVL's clearance is 6" from the nearest combustible and 9" from the ceiling if horizontal. Maybe split the difference for greater comfort factor?

 

[warburtonplayer]

I have the same problem but I have supervent piping from lowes any ideas what will adapt to the back for supervent pipe?

 

[SmallAxe]

I am not familiar with the Supervent pipe; but I did realize that the 4 1/2 inch damper section (which I had planned to run vertically, above the "T" cleanout section) has a 5 5/8" outer diameter and could sub for the adapter.
Begreen, in your experience is it advisable to run the damper section on the horizontal? and in this case directly out of the flue?
(Warburton, maybe there is a similar supervent product?)

 

[begreen]

Should be ok, not ideal but functional.

 

[coaly]

I am not familiar with the Supervent pipe; but I did realize that the 4 1/2 inch damper section (which I had planned to run vertically, above the "T" cleanout section) has a 5 5/8" outer diameter and could sub for the adapter.
Begreen, in your experience is it advisable to run the damper section on the horizontal? and in this case directly out of the flue?
(Warburton, maybe there is a similar supervent product?)

Although the kits supplied with the stove were made by Dura-Vent, the short damper section went directly into the stove outlet. Sounds like your brand is sized the same. (notice cover of Goldilocks manual in sticky section)

Each component in the connector pipe reduces draft, and the damper is a variable resistance that position does not affect. It controls the velocity of the flue gasses and should be within easy reach.

Dura-Vent Tees are female uncrimped on the side and fit OVER the stove connector very well. Yours may do the same. You cap the bottom and any condensate drops into the drip leg to be evaporated.

How tall is your chimney? Insulated the same size all the way? You may have a recipe for intake flutter with the single inlet Baby Bear on a very efficient chimney.