Blaze king King issues need help

[blueguy]

Your cap looks clogged. That could contribute to at least the draft part of your issue.

Also, a cat doesn't need to glow to be working. A cat will work just fine without glowing - if it is glowing, it only means it's above 1000*.

 

[BlazekingKING]

Your cap looks clogged. That could contribute to at least the draft part of your issue.

Also, a cat doesn't need to glow to be working. A cat will work just fine without glowing - if it is glowing, it only means it's above 1000*.

When you talk about your cap what are you referring to?

 

[blueguy]

The cap at the top of your chimney. Can't see much daylight through it. Combine that with the amount of buildup showing in your connector pipe in the pic, I wouldn't be surprised if the cap (or even the Class A itself) was plugged causing the poor performance issues.

Does the cap have a screen on it?

 

[BlazekingKING]

 

[BlazekingKING]

The cap at the top of your chimney. Can't see much daylight through it. Combine that with the amount of buildup showing in your connector pipe in the pic, I wouldn't be surprised if the cap (or even the Class A itself) was plugged causing the poor performance issues.

Does the cap have a screen on it?

Yes it has a screen. I don't believe it is clogged but will look again tomorrow morning in the daylight. When we had everything apart today and cleaned the inside pipe and the 90going out it was sucking the dust right back out the chimney

 

[Squisher]

Check the cap.

It's hard to tell from the pics but it looks to me like all the piping is backwards? High could allow for creosote/leakages a lot easier.

 

[BlazekingKING]

Check the cap.

It's hard to tell from the pics but it looks to me like all the piping is backwards? High could allow for creosote/leakages a lot easier.

I do not understand how it could be backwards? I assumed it only went one way. The pipe twist and lock into each other.

 

[pdxdave]

While the bypass gasket wont help the problems it will also not cause the issues we are seeing here. Those issues are caused by poor draft and or wet wood.

How so?
I would think a leaky gasket, especially around the bypass could easily cause these type of issues. Based on the pics and info the OP has posted, I think it is a major contributor to the issue. Year old pine (especially if beetle-kill) very unlikely to be the culprit, and the chimney looks to be easily sufficient to draft well at medium burn rates.

 

[pdxdave]

I do not understand how it could be backwards? I assumed it only went one way. The pipe twist and lock into each other.

It should be installed so that moving from top to bottom the pipes fit 'inside' of each one below it, so that any creosote drippings stay inside the pipe. Installed like this

Top
V
V
V
Bottom

If that makes sense

 

[Squisher]

Working upwards from the stove does the pipe from below go to the inside or the outside of the pipe above it?

What I'm getting at is if something were to run down your chimney it should run back all the way to your stove. Not be able to run to the outside of the pipe below it.

 

[BlazekingKING]

It should be installed so that moving from top to bottom the pipes fit 'inside' of each one below it, so that any creosote drippings stay inside the pipe. Installed like this

Top
V
V
V
Bottom

If that makes sense

We will check that tomorrow as well I know when we moved here we just added the two to pieces and had no choice as to how it went on it only went one way but the previous owner may have done it wrong!

 

[BlazekingKING]

Working upwards from the stove does the pipe from below go to the inside or the outside of the pipe above it?

What I'm getting at is if something were to run down your chimney it should run back all the way to your stove. Not be able to run to the outside of the pipe below it.

If we are understanding you correctly I think it is upside down,could that be why the moisture runs into my stove?

 

[bholler]

How so?
I would think a leaky gasket, especially around the bypass could easily cause these type of issues. Based on the pics and info the OP has posted, I think it is a major contributor to the issue. Year old pine (especially if beetle-kill) very unlikely to be the culprit, and the chimney looks to be easily sufficient to draft well at medium burn rates.

A leaky bypass gasket would not smother the fire if anything it would make the fire burn more vigorously. It would make the cat more difficult to keep active and make more creosote but the fire would still burn

 

[bholler]

If we are understanding you correctly I think it is upside down,could that be why the moisture runs into my stove?

No you want any moisture that occurs in that pipe to run into the stove and not onto the outside of the pipe.

 

[Squisher]

If we are understanding you correctly I think it is upside down,could that be why the moisture runs into my stove?

No it shouldn't cause the moisture to run into your stove. It is just unsafe if it is in fact backwards and needs to be reversed.

 

[shoot-straight]

View attachment 174278

Looks like you are breaking the 3' before any bend rule. I have a 45 10" above my stove too, but have 25' of insulated pipe above it too.

Is that single wall? That is another "violation" if it is.

 

[BlazekingKING]

Y

Looks like you are breaking the 3' before any bend rule. I have a 45 10" above my stove too, but have 25' of insulated pipe above it too.

Is that single wall? That is another "violation" if it is.

Yes it is single wall we live hours from a big town to get supplies so we could not get any today. I do not know how we are suppose to run our stove pipe then? We had the 90 and couldn't do that and we were told to do the 2-45s and now that isn't right either!

 

[begreen]

Correct, the connector should be double wall. A 45 eibow off the stove can work pretty well. I've done a couple installs like this on a short chimney and they draft ok. However, if the wood is not fully seasoned the chimney will be a secondary issue.
This is on a 12' chimney with double-wall connector.

 

[BlazekingKING]

No you want any moisture that occurs in that pipe to run into the stove and not onto the outside of the pipe.

All of our moisture is definitely staying inside the pipe and not running down the outside anywhere

 

[BlazekingKING]

Correct, the connector should be double wall. A 45 eibow off the stove can work pretty well. I've done a couple installs like this on a short chimney and they draft ok. However, if the wood is not fully seasoned the chimney will be a secondary issue.
This is on a 12' chimney.
View attachment 174280

I know it needs to be double just live very rural so don't have easy access to that and need to wait until pay day because I believe it will be easily over 300....

 

[BlazekingKING]

I know it needs to be double just live very rural so don't have easy access to that and need to wait until pay day because I believe it will be easily over 300....

What's a double wall connector?

 

[begreen]

What's a double wall connector?

Double wall stove pipe that connects the stove to the chimney.

 

[pdxdave]

Double wall stove pipe that connects the stove to the chimney.

Why do you think it needs to be double?
I'm sure it provides some marginal increase in draft, but I have a really hard time believing this is a root cause of the issue. Issue needs to be resolved before sinking time/money into enhancements like interior double wall.

 

[Ashful]

Next time you're in town, it might be worth picking up a few arm loads of DRY wood. The supermarket bundles are often kiln-dried to 15%, which would work well for a test, to see if your wood is the source of your frustrations.

There are ways to get around burning less than dry wood, such as mixing 8% MC framing lumber in with your firewood, but you need to determine if this is a source of your problems.

begreen is right that double-wall would be a little better, but I agree with pdxdave that this is not likely the major source of your problems. Likewise, having your pipe assembled the right direction is something you'll want to ensure for safety and cleanliness, but not the source of your burn time woes.

 

[BlazekingKING]

Next time you're in town, it might be worth picking up a few arm loads of DRY wood. The supermarket bundles are often kiln-dried to 15%, which would work well for a test, to see if your wood is the source of your frustrations.

There are ways to get around burning less than dry wood, such as mixing 8% MC framing lumber in with your firewood, but you need to determine if this is a source of your problems.

begreen is right that double-wall would be a little better, but I agree with pdxdave that this is not likely the major source of your problems. Likewise, having your pipe assembled the right direction is something you'll want to ensure for safety and cleanliness, but not the source of your burn time woes.

What about the fact that my inside pipe Is a violation of not being 3' up before the 45?