Blaze King - Poor Burn Time

[spudman99]

I can address this problem with some certainty. My princess insert on a 30' exterior masonry chimney and is insulated.

I have a magnehelic installed to monitor draft. When cold my draft reads 0.02wc ("water column in inches"). On a cold day with fire on hot my meter pegs at more than 0.25wc, which is 3x or more above BK specs. My stove is still controllable at that high draft, turning down the thermostat to low will almost immediately extinguish the flames.

I can control the heat output throughout the full range of the thermostat. When I put it at medium I can get the combustor gauge to the middle and stay there, fan on medium also. I can also peg the gauge on high with the fan on high if I so desire.

During a normal burn of lets say 75% closed on the tstat, temps outside in the 20's, full load and active cat, my draft runs in the 0.15-0.18 range continuously.

So the answer is from a real field installation of a nearly identical stove with similar operating infrastructure is that the unit is controllable. There is something wrong with the thermostat, perhaps something holding it up so it doesn't close completely? I think I remember a thread last year where there was a screw that interfered in the thermostat closing fully (mellow?) which after correction eliminated the problem. Could that be an issue here?

 

[Howdebody89]

Thank you everyone again. I will try to respond to many of the questions that were raised over the past several days:

1. I tested the door seal with a dollar bill and seems snug. I am not sure how to test the glass seal
2. I do not get a sense that there is any flapper CLOSING when I fully adjust the thermostat to low. It does feels/sounds like it is doing something - not quite a ratchet, maybe a spring winding, until I reach the lowest reading. Beyond that I can actually force it a bit more, but it seems like the knob is only spinning on the shaft at this point as now the 'sound/feel' (I stopped, of course).
3. The fire does not change AT ALL with lowering the thermostat . . . and it certainly doesn't go out (mind you, I have not left it on HI for any duration given my situation with excessive heat and concerns about what damage it might do). My post - with video - from Saturday 1/25/20 ~ 7:30 PM was with tstat on lowest x > 60 minutes. My post from earlier that same day show my infrared readings (actually got higher - read HI only) and converter/combuster indicator nearly travelled 270 degrees around the dial - ON LOW. Please see my posts above for details re: conditions.
4. I have a two story home with attic with stove on first floor and flu ~ 2.5 feet off ground 8 foot celings on first two floors and somewhat less in attic. Exterior chimney. Maybe a foot between floors ?? So roughly 7 + 9 + 7 + 4 (generous chimney length) = ~ 25 feet (I will try to attach pictures)
5. I will attach pictures of complete stove later.
6. Serial number is hidden behind the surround. I will need to remove to forward to BKVP (whom I will PM later today).
7. I do not know how to visualized the thermostat damper.
8. I bought the unit in late November 2019, though was installed in early 1/2020. Given the time of year and limited availabilit of my "team" where I bought it, response times have been less than optimal. I have tried reaching out to other chimney specialists, but it has been VERY challenging as it seems no one will go near it if they did not sell it/install it.

Thanks again for everything.


Tom

 

[jetsam]

Thank you everyone again. I will try to respond to many of the questions that were raised over the past several days:

1. I tested the door seal with a dollar bill and seems snug. I am not sure how to test the glass seal
2. I do not get a sense that there is any flapper CLOSING when I fully adjust the thermostat to low. It does feels/sounds like it is doing something - not quite a ratchet, maybe a spring winding, until I reach the lowest reading. Beyond that I can actually force it a bit more, but it seems like the knob is only spinning on the shaft at this point as now the 'sound/feel' (I stopped, of course).
3. The fired does not change AT ALL with lowering the thermostat . . . and it certainly doesn't go out (mind you, I have not left it on HI for any duration given my situation with excessive heat and concerns about what damage it might do). My post - with video - from Saturday 1/25/20 ~ 7:30 PM was with tstat on lowest x > 60 minutes. My post from earlier that same day show my infrared readings (actually got higher - read HI only) and converter/combuster indicator nearly travelled 270 degrees around the dial - ON LOW. Please see my posts above for details re: conditions.
4. I have a two story home with attic with stove on first floor and flu ~ 2.5 feet off ground 8 foot celings on first two floors and somewhat less in attic. Exterior chimney. Maybe a foot between floors ?? So roughly 7 + 9 + 7 + 4 (generous chimney length) = ~ 25 feet (I will try to attach pictures)
5. I will attach pictures of full stoev
6. Serial number is hidden behind facade. I will need to remove to forward to BKVP (whom I will PM later today).
7. I do not know how to visualized the thermostat damper.
8. I bought the unit in late November 2019, though was installed in early 1/2020. Given the time of year and limited availabilit of my "team" where I bought it, response times have been less than optimal. I have tried reaching out to other chimney specialists, but it has been VERY challenging as it seems no one will go near it if they did not sell it/install it.

Thanks again for everything.


Tom

When the stove is hot, you should be able to hear the flapper shut when you turn the thermostat down.

I'm at 98% thermostat/flapper issue, 2% undiagnosed major air leak here.

 

[Ashful]

When the stove is hot, you should be able to hear the flapper shut when you turn the thermostat down.

I'm at 98% thermostat/flapper issue, 2% undiagnosed major air leak here.

Agreed. We’ve seen at least one other in the last year, this is really shaping up to be nothing else, primarily when I see statements like this:

The fire does not change AT ALL with lowering the thermostat . . .

 

[BKVP]

It's possible the thermostat blade go tilted during install and it's not closing. The best thing to do is call the dealer that installed it. Do not force the knob please. Inspecting this will require a 7/64" allen wrench, a #2 square drive, a very tight grip.

Call the installer! Or let me know if you want to tackle this yourself.

BKVP

 

[Howdebody89]

Thanks so much, guys. VERY MUCH APPRECIATED. That would seem to make sense. What is the best way to get this fixed? As I mentioned, my dealer's availability has been somewhat limited given he is a one man show and it is a very busy time of year for him (VERY nice guy, mind you). That being said, I have not yet called him on this specific issue. Can anyone recommend a reputable/qualified stove techniciaan in the Philadelphia area who would be willing to work on BK that they did not personally sell/install themselves?

Regardless of dealer/installer availability, is this something I can do on my own? I am somewhat handy, but not anxious to disconnect the stove entirely from the liner and slide it out to work on the t-stat. IMaybe there is a YouTube video that shows the normal operation of the tstat (sound of closure and all) and/or how to repair it ? If not, maybe someone would be kind enough to submit a video of their properly-operating t-stat (if not the repair as well) . . . so I am sure my t-stat is actually the problem!

 

[maple1]

Thanks so much, guys. VERY MUCH APPRECIATED. That would seem to make sense. What is the best way to get this fixed? As I mentioned, my dealer's availability has been somewhat limited given he is a one man show and it is a very busy time of year for him (VERY nice guy, mind you). That being said, I have not yet called him on this specific issue. Can anyone recommend a reputable/qualified stove techniciaan in the Philadelphia area who would be willing to work on BK that they did not personally sell/install themselves?

Regardless of dealer/installer availability, is this something I can do on my own? I am somewhat handy, but not anxious to disconnect the stove entirely from the liner and slide it out to work on the t-stat. IMaybe there is a YouTube video that shows the normal operation of the tstat (sound of closure and all) and/or how to repair it ? If not, maybe someone would be kind enough to submit a video of their properly-operating t-stat (if not the repair as well) . . . so I am sure my t-stat is actually the problem!

You need to pay close attention to BKVPs posts. Contact him if you want to try it yourself.

He has that user name for a very good reason.

 

[Ashful]

If you want to go the dealer route, I’d recommend the one in KoP or the one in Kintersville. I have dealt myself with the one in Kintersville, and BKVP seems to deal with the KoP guys a fair bit. PM me if looking at others, there is one area BK dealer I would personally avoid (if he is even still a legit dealer), but I won’t share his name publicly on the forum.

There are also a few new dealers listed at the dealer locator on the BK site. I do not recall there being so many, back when I bought my stoves.

 

[BKVP]

However guys...if a dealer installed it, his service is covered $$. Any other dealer will charge him $$.

 

[jetsam]

Thanks so much, guys. VERY MUCH APPRECIATED. That would seem to make sense. What is the best way to get this fixed? As I mentioned, my dealer's availability has been somewhat limited given he is a one man show and it is a very busy time of year for him (VERY nice guy, mind you). That being said, I have not yet called him on this specific issue. Can anyone recommend a reputable/qualified stove techniciaan in the Philadelphia area who would be willing to work on BK that they did not personally sell/install themselves?

Regardless of dealer/installer availability, is this something I can do on my own? I am somewhat handy, but not anxious to disconnect the stove entirely from the liner and slide it out to work on the t-stat. IMaybe there is a YouTube video that shows the normal operation of the tstat (sound of closure and all) and/or how to repair it ? If not, maybe someone would be kind enough to submit a video of their properly-operating t-stat (if not the repair as well) . . . so I am sure my t-stat is actually the problem!

If you know which end of a screwdriver is which, and you have a #2 square driver and a SAE hex key set, you should PM BKVP. He offered to walk you through it, which is liable to take a half hour versus whatever your guy's schedule is.

He's not going to post instructions here because he doesn't want future forum searchers who have a leaky gasket tearing into their thermostat assembly.

 

[Howdebody89]

I have PM'd BKVP as suggested. At least I think I did! [I clicked his name and left a message (limited to 420 characters) . . .] I am hoping that - with his and EVERYONE'S help I have received thus far - I can finally get the Blaze King I hoped for when I bought it. I can't thank "yous guys" enough (not to slight any ladies out there . . . I grew up in Jersey after all).

 

[BKVP]

I'm standing by...509-522-2730

 

[unimog1300]

I have a 2020 compliant BK Pincess insert. Installed 3/2019. The serial number on mine is on a flat piece of steel that is located at the front bottom left of the insert as you face it. It has a lip turned up that you pull out towards you and my number is at the top right. Below the thermostat are long slots cut into the shroud that you can see the air flapper. It hangs on a beaded chain inside the shroud. You'll have to get your eye pretty close to see it. I've attached a few pictures, hopefully they help.

 

[Howdebody89]

Just an update . . .

With the help of BKVP, I determined that the problem was in fact a thermostat flapper that was hung up! Thus the inability to control the fire in any way. I have since fixed it (a simple thing to do, in the end) and now have tstat control of things. Still going to have to learn a lot to maximize heat/burn times, but one day at a time!

Big shout out to BKVP! His support, reassurance, and guidance were outstanding

 

[spudman99]

…. There is something wrong with the thermostat, perhaps something holding it up so it doesn't close completely? I think I remember a thread last year where there was a screw that interfered in the thermostat closing fully (mellow?) which after correction eliminated the problem. Could that be an issue here?

Looks like I hit it on the nail. Not the first time and probably not the last. Glad you got it operational and hope it keeps you warm and toasty.