Blue Max chain brake

[Danno77]

Well, there it is. This is why you take a gamble with cheapo saws. I'm gonna try to source a parts saw, because I'm having a hard time finding parts. The chain brake died and I had to completely take it off the saw in order to use it at all. It's my backup saw, so I am not too worried.

All in all, the saw continues to run strong and be reliable. I do not regret the $$ spent on it several years ago, it has, and will be, useful. It's no Stihl, though, that's for sure. RPMs and power are lacking in comparison to a good saw. It can barely drag that 20" chain through the wood, but it does do it. They throw out a decent CC like that's gonna get you where you need to go, but it's not the whole story, Buyer Beware. I know I've mentioned that here before to newbies looking for a cheap way out.

I'm not necessarily trying to talk anybody out of one, just making sure they know what they are getting into. If it's early in the morning on a black Friday and I see another saw like is one and at this price, I'll probably buy it up. Maybe the lesson here is to buy TWO!

 

[Danno77]

Actually, all is not lost. Let me try sending an email to Homier, they say they can send me available parts lists...

 

[Danno77]

I have an open ticket with Homier. No response yet. I tend to be impatient, so this is driving me nuts...

Thanks for contacting Homier Customer Support. Your request (#7063) has been received, and is being reviewed by our support staff. We typically respond within 24 - 48 hrs.

To review the status of the request and add additional comments, follow the link below. You may be asked to sign in using your email address.
http://homier.zendesk.com/tickets/7063


Daniel, Oct-29 12:01 pm (EDT):
Do you have an IPL for my Blue Max Super Steel Chainsaw and a way to order replacement parts? I can respond with SN or Model Number if necessary.

-Dan

 

[Jerry_NJ]

Thanks for the running experience with the Blue Max.

I have a small Homelite 14" ($109 at Home depot about 5 years ago) that is a very troublesome machine, engine (33cc) is weak and will not idle and has trouble getting up to power and holding it. I will guess it has no more than 20 hours run time on it. I also have an 18" Sears (low end) that isn't better. It has fewer hours and is almost impossible to start. Both are, of course, 2 cycle.

I saw on the HD web that a Blue Max with both a 14" and 20" bar and chanins offered at $149. I really don't have a need for the 20" bar/chain, but at that price it could be a nice option... also has a case. The customer ratings are very high, almost everyone who posted, gave it a 5 star.

Danno, it sounds like you put your saws to heavy duty use. How man hours do you think you put on your Blue Max before the brake went?

 

[MasterMech]

Thanks for the running experience with the Blue Max.

I have a small Homelite 14" ($109 at Home depot about 5 years ago) that is a very troublesome machine, engine (33cc) is weak and will not idle and has trouble getting up to power and holding it. I will guess it has no more than 20 hours run time on it. I also have an 18" Sears (low end) that isn't better. It has fewer hours and is almost impossible to start. Both are, of course, 2 cycle.

I saw on the HD web that a Blue Max with both a 14" and 20" bar and chanins offered at $149. I really don't have a need for the 20" bar/chain, but at that price it could be a nice option... also has a case. The customer ratings are very high, almost everyone who posted, gave it a 5 star.

Danno, it sounds like you put your saws to heavy duty use. How man hours do you think you put on your Blue Max before the brake went?

Jerry with all the trouble Danno is having sourcing parts, do you really want to invest in this saw? I think you can do better. I would recommend Stihl's smaller saws for your consideration. You can do very well for under $300. If you can still find a new MS180 (MSRP was $199) I'd buy it immediately. The replacement (MS181) is much more $$ ($260) but MS250's are still common on the shelf for $299.95 With a Stihl, parts will be available for many years as the company guarantees it.

You can also post a new thread or search the old one's to get other's opinions. Just give us a size/prize range (ie: 45cc under $300) and you will get all the recommendations you can handle.

 

[Danno77]

I'm sorry that i didn't update sooner. Don't want to give Homier a bad rep if they don't deserve it.

I got a response on 11/10 asking for the model number of my saw (I responded moments later with it)

On 11/11 they sent me the full manual with IPL in digital format. I have determined the part numbers for what I need, but have yet to send them to Homier.

So, the holdup is on my end at this point.


In terms of the amount of use i've got from the saw, I'd say that I've cut 3 cords of wood plus I tend to grab it for yard work, so that I'm not quick-cycling (hot/cold) the good saw. That sure is not very much IMO, but if this part is cheap, then I'm not too upset. This saw has proved to be pretty reliable. I can pull it off the shelf and use it anytime I need to. It's nice to have a backup saw out in the timber. Is it the best solution? i dunno, but it was pretty inexpensive. Still runs perfect except for the chain brake.

 

[Jerry_NJ]

Chain break? I think my low-end Homlite doesn't have one. Is that possible? What symptom of trouble did you have, no break or lock-up? Again, if there is a blade break does that mean the chain stops instantaneously when the throttle is released? Is the break related in anyway to starting/running? Those are the problems my Homelite has. I will admit it was left sitting with old gas many months at a time. I have been running it on 50:1 too and just noticed that it calls for 40:1 but I'd think that would make it run better, just not a long before wear breaks it down. I did check the spark with an in-line simple tester, seems to be getting a spark, but I may just replace the plug (Champion RCJ4) just to see if that helps. It has the original plug, and it looks good to my eye and it sparks according to my in-line tester. The gap could be off, at about 0.03, I'll check the manual.

 

[Danno77]

Chain break? I think my low-end Homlite doesn't have one. Is that possible? What symptom of trouble did you have, no break or lock-up? Again, if there is a blade break does that mean the chain stops instantaneously when the throttle is released? Is the break related in anyway to starting/running? Those are the problems my Homelite has. I will admit it was left sitting with old gas many months at a time. I have been running it on 50:1 too and just noticed that it calls for 40:1 but I'd think that would make it run better, just not a long before wear breaks it down. I did check the spark with an in-line simple tester, seems to be getting a spark, but I may just replace the plug (Champion RCJ4) just to see if that helps. It has the original plug, and it looks good to my eye and it sparks according to my in-line tester. The gap could be off, at about 0.03, I'll check the manual.

Mine has the paddle/guard in front of the handle that locks the chain when pressed forward. It had seized in a locked condition, which meant I could start the saw, but if I revved it, the clutch would fight the brake and it would bog down.

What is your low end Homelite? Not the older XL, is it? It might not have a chain brake if it is an older saw. All of the new saws do, even cheapos.

 

[Jerry_NJ]

I had a 14" XL and it was a good saw, up to about 5 years ago. The current is a 33cc Model UT10901B. It has a hand handle guard which may be a brake. It does not seem to have any travel/switch action to it. I can take a look. In any case the trouble is getting it started. Even with a shot of carb cleaner in the spark plug hole and knowing there is a spark, it is difficult to start. It may take 20 pulls to get a pop or two... then a few more and it may run for a while, but even then it has very little power. I got it running today and took it to a set of stumps that I need to shorten before renting a stump grinder. The trees were Birch (White I think) and at the ground as much as 18" across by maybe 12", that is not the usual round shape.

I also have a 18" Craftsman which is also not running well that has a "click-action" to the guard, so that one must have a brake. I take it that if the saw kicks back and the hand/arm holding the handle hits the guard it will force it forward and cause the brake to engage. Thus, I understand it the brake is a separate physical stop to the chain, has nothing to do with the engine directly... thus the engine should start regardless of what the brake is doing. Or, does the brake also ground the ignition? That said I did note a spark flash in my series ignition tester, saying the ignition was hot enough to fire the plug.

 

[BrotherBart]

In the for what it is worth department. Any of you closet Chinese chainsaw owners that are looking for parts, check this place out. Most of the saws coming out of China are the same saw with just different bar lengths and piston stroke length.

http://www.bigjacktools.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=87

 

[Danno77]

I had a 14" XL and it was a good saw, up to about 5 years ago. The current is a 33cc Model UT10901B. It has a hand handle guard which may be a brake. It does not seem to have any travel/switch action to it. I can take a look. In any case the trouble is getting it started. Even with a shot of carb cleaner in the spark plug hole and knowing there is a spark, it is difficult to start. It may take 20 pulls to get a pop or two... then a few more and it may run for a while, but even then it has very little power. I got it running today and took it to a set of stumps that I need to shorten before renting a stump grinder. The trees were Birch (White I think) and at the ground as much as 18" across by maybe 12", that is not the usual round shape.

I also have a 18" Craftsman which is also not running well that has a "click-action" to the guard, so that one must have a brake. I take it that if the saw kicks back and the hand/arm holding the handle hits the guard it will force it forward and cause the brake to engage. Thus, I understand it the brake is a separate physical stop to the chain, has nothing to do with the engine directly... thus the engine should start regardless of what the brake is doing. Or, does the brake also ground the ignition? That said I did note a spark flash in my series ignition tester, saying the ignition was hot enough to fire the plug.

If your clutch goes bad and "sticks" then you will have a hard time starting the saw with the brake engaged. Sometimes idle set too high will engage the clutch almost immediately which would kill the saw if the brake is set.

I'd have to look up your model to see if it had a chain brake like mine. Craftsman saws are easy to find manuals and IPLs for online.

Edit: yep, I'm seeing your 33cc Homelite online, it has a chain brake, that hand guard should have some clicking action to it. Pull it back to release, push forward to engage. If it is stuck that could definitely be related to the problems you are having.

 

[BrotherBart]

Danno, take a look and see if this looks like your chain brake.

http://www.bigjacktools.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=87_89&products_id=379

 

[Danno77]

Danno, take a look and see if this looks like your chain brake.

http://www.bigjacktools.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=87_89&products_id=379

It does look VERY similar. Probably is the same. I see that for their 52cc and 58cc saws this part looks the same. Wish they had a 45cc model so i could co pare it to mine. A model number would be cool, too.

If that whole assembly costs 15 bucks, I wonder what Homier will charge for the same assembly. I really only need the plastic cover and planned on reassembling the handle, and adjuster and those little shields, etc.

 

[Jerry_NJ]

Interesting, I'll take a look tomorrow to see if the Homelite will start easier with the chain real loose, or maybe just off as it could be a good time to turn the bar over anyway (I seem to recall mention of getting more life out of a chain bar by turning it over). I recall some too about running a file along the edge of the bar where the chain rides.... but I digress. The manual on the Homelite calls the guard in front of the handle simply the "front hand guard", no mention of a break function. Yet, the troubleshooting guide refers to the "chain brake" but I suppose the troubleshooting set is used for many/most of their saws. I'll do a physical check again tomorrow.

I know my Sears has a break and this is a saw that will not run at all. It too is hard to start, and it has a dedicated throttle lock position for starting that puts the engine on a fast idle. I am not sure where the brake is set on this saw as I wasn't thinking about where to leave it when I checked to see if it has one. It could be set "on"... if that position is physically latched when operated. I am hopeful that is the problem, thanks for putting me on the subject. The Sears (Chinese too I'm sure) is 16" (or maybe 18") so it is a better size for the larger sections of the trunks I'm working with. Most has already been cut into rounds that are 20" or less. But as mentioned, I want to cut the thick section now next to the ground before renting a stump grinder. I mention the 20" as my manual Harbor Freight hydraulic splitter is limited to about 18.5" and if I am to use it I have to trim a 2" biscuit of the ends of these logs. As I mention on another thread this splitter travel is far short of the "knife" so when the piston is all the way out the log is still over 10" from the splitting edge. Thus, with the fresh Birch I find I am left with a round split about half way down and I don't have the strength to pull it apart. I need to hit it with an ax. not so good after all the effort to pump the hydro already spent. I think I may buy a 5 ton electric splitter. Word is they drive to within 4 or 5 inches of the splitting knife. The Ryobi and Homelite (seem to be close relatives) at Home Depot are Chinese... but then too they are only $300.

My little Remington 14" electric is a great saw. It isn't real powerful, but as long as I can get an electric cord to it, runs, no starting problems whatsoever : )

Are any of the chain saws made in USA? I'd guess the Poulan is Chinese too, maybe the Husky too. Stihl may be USA made.

 

[Danno77]

Interesting, I'll take a look tomorrow to see if the Homelite will start easier with the chain real loose, or maybe just off as it could be a good time to turn the bar over anyway (I seem to recall mention of getting more life out of a chain bar by turning it over). I recall some too about running a file along the edge of the bar where the chain rides.... but I digress. The manual on the Homelite calls the guard in front of the handle simply the "front hand guard", no mention of a break function. Yet, the troubleshooting guide refers to the "chain brake" but I suppose the troubleshooting set is used for many/most of their saws. I'll do a physical check again tomorrow.

I know my Sears has a break and this is a saw that will not run at all. It too is hard to start, and it has a dedicated throttle lock position for starting that puts the engine on a fast idle. I am not sure where the brake is set on this saw as I wasn't thinking about where to leave it when I checked to see if it has one. It could be set "on"... if that position is physically latched when operated. I am hopeful that is the problem, thanks for putting me on the subject. The Sears (Chinese too I'm sure) is 16" (or maybe 18") so it is a better size for the larger sections of the trunks I'm working with. Most has already been cut into rounds that are 20" or less. But as mentioned, I want to cut the thick section now next to the ground before renting a stump grinder. I mention the 20" as my manual Harbor Freight hydraulic splitter is limited to about 18.5" and if I am to use it I have to trim a 2" biscuit of the ends of these logs. As I mention on another thread this splitter travel is far short of the "knife" so when the piston is all the way out the log is still over 10" from the splitting edge. Thus, with the fresh Birch I find I am left with a round split about half way down and I don't have the strength to pull it apart. I need to hit it with an ax. not so good after all the effort to pump the hydro already spent. I think I may buy a 5 ton electric splitter. Word is they drive to within 4 or 5 inches of the splitting knife. The Ryobi and Homelite (seem to be close relatives) at Home Depot are Chinese... but then too they are only $300.

My little Remington 14" electric is a great saw. It isn't real powerful, but as long as I can get an electric cord to it, runs, no starting problems whatsoever : )

Are any of the chain saws made in USA? I'd guess the Poulan is Chinese too, maybe the Husky too. Stihl may be USA made.

Not the US, Germany!

Removing or loosening the chain won't do a thing. I know they call it a chain brake, and it doesn't DIRECTLY stop the chain, it does so by freezing up the clutch or some similar mechanism. I read through that manual, it was stupid. Like you say, they reference the chain brake in the troubleshooting portion and actually say "refer to the operating chain brake instructions" that don't exist!

 

[BrotherBart]

It does look VERY similar. Probably is the same. I see that for their 52cc and 58cc saws this part looks the same. Wish they had a 45cc model so i could co pare it to mine. A model number would be cool, too.

Yeah. Your post reminded me that I have intended for months to order one of the 52cc Chi-Com saws. The 23 pound big boy is just getting too big to heft and I need something as light as the 142 but with a little more kick. And a neighbor is going to have around four cord of oak and maple dropped in his yard soon and wants me to take the wood.

So I took an hour today and did a little investigating. Two things I found were that people on AS have bought some of the saws to laugh at and destroy and they couldn't blow them up. Well, one guy accidentally ran over it with his tractor.

So I looked closer and found that they all use the same piston and rings so stroke is the CC difference and everything else is the same from 33cc up to 58cc.

My new one will be here Friday. People can laugh all they want. Like they did when I was the first one here to buy a 30-NC. :lol:

 

[BrotherBart]

The Poulans and little Huskys are made in a plant here in Virginia down by Richmond.

 

[Danno77]

It does look VERY similar. Probably is the same. I see that for their 52cc and 58cc saws this part looks the same. Wish they had a 45cc model so i could co pare it to mine. A model number would be cool, too.

Yeah. Your post reminded me that I have intended for months to order one of the 52cc Chi-Com saws. The 23 pound big boy is just getting too big to heft and I need something as light as the 142 but with a little more kick. And a neighbor is going to have around four cord of oak and maple dropped in his yard soon and wants me to take the wood.

So I took an hour today and did a little investigating. Two things I found were that people on AS have bought some of the saws to laugh at and destroy and they couldn't blow them up. Well, one guy accidentally ran over it with his tractor.

So I looked closer and found that they all use the same piston and rings so stroke is the CC difference and everything else is the same from 33cc up to 58cc.

My new one will be here Friday. People can laugh all they want. Like they did when I was the first one here to buy a 30-NC. :lol:

I've had the site bookmarked for some time. I swear they had a 72cc saw on there at one time. The 62cc with a 24" chain has been sold out for months.

It's that 11,000rpms that is killer. You really notice that difference and not in a good way.

 

[BrotherBart]

My little Husky 142s top out around 10,500 rpm and with the narrow kerf chain I love it. Little suckers eat through wood they should never be able to handle. Gets a little exciting when they throw a chain though. Because the skinny bar flexes so much.

 

[Jerry_NJ]

Thanks, yes the troubleshooting refers to the Operations portion of the manual. So, the Homelite at least isn't having chain brake problems, but maybe my Sears is. So the brake discussion did "learn" me something anyway, thanks.

I found a number for carb adjustment tools, on EBay and on Amazon for around $10. All are screwdriver like but have a socket head. One is called a "D" another a "Pack man".. each describing the shape of the "socket" hole. I will look real carefully at the heads of the jets on the saw to see if one fits the descriptions I see. I am increasingly convinced a correct carb adjustment will improve the starting and running. I'll also crank up the idle speed on the Homelite.

BB, a "Chi-Com" saw? You too must be a closet Chinese saw guy. Well, no longer in the closet.

Stihl, German? Well that explains the strange spelling of the name. In the USA that would be spelled STILL. I have the lowest/cheapest Stihl string trimmer. It weighs a "ton", not a tool for a small person/woman. It too may need some carb adjustment... could they all have the same carb design? My 2 Cycle Mantis garden tiller needs a carb adjustment every year...but it has travel limited screw head jets. So, no special tool needed there. Is it the EPA that took the adjustments away from us "shade-tree" mechanics?

 

[Thistle]

Smaller Husky's are made in USA,larger ones in Huskvarna,Sweden.

Smaller Stihl's are made in Virginia Beach VA,larger ones are made in Stuttgart,Germany.

 

[BrotherBart]

Back in 1991 when I bought the Poulan 405+ the pro saws around here were the Stihls and the Poulan Pro commercial saws. Husqvarna was sewing machines and motorcycles. I ordered the Poulan 405+ from a local dealer, for six hundred 1991 bucks, because Germany ain't in America anymore than Japan and China are. Come to think of it, Sweden isn't either. So when it came in I went and picked it up and there was a big "Made In Canada" red maple leaf sticker on it. Made by Pioneer/Partner in Canada. So much for trying to buy American. >:-(

I laugh about only buying a saw from a dealer. I never had a reason to take it back to the dealer and he went out of business sixteen years ago. The saw is still going strong. Can't say the same for the dealer.

 

[Thistle]

Back in 1991 when I bought the Poulan 405+ the pro saws around here were the Stihls and the Poulan Pro commercial saws. Husqvarna was sewing machines and motorcycles. I ordered the Poulan 405+ from a local dealer, for six hundred 1991 bucks, because Germany ain't in America anymore than Japan and China are. Come to think of it, Sweden isn't either. So when it came in I went and picked it up and there was a big "Made In Canada" red maple leaf sticker on it. Made by Pioneer/Partner in Canada. So much for trying to buy American. >:-(

I laugh about only buying a saw from a dealer. I never had a reason to take it back to the dealer and he went out of business sixteen years ago. The saw is still going strong. Can't say the same for the dealer.

I hear ya.In the late 80's Pioneer of Canada & Partner of Sweden combined & were taken over by Electrolux,the resulting merger they changed the name to Poulan Pro for the North American market.In April '94 I bought the bigger brother to your saw,the 475 w/ 77cc & 36" bar for $745 to power my Alaskan mill from a local dealer/small engine shop.One nice thing is so many parts for Husky,Partner & Jonsered were interchangeable,since the factories were all owned by one company & only a few miles apart.My 475 was a rebadged Partner 7700 & clone of Jonsered 2077.Same cylinder,piston,carburetor,everything.Just different color.

Used it all these years, always blown out with compressed air & wiped clean with a rag after use -with no decompression valve it was a groan to start as I got older.Still a great saw with 12,500 RPM & 6HP & only 15 lbs.I sold it 2 weeks ago on Ebay with 24" Oregon bar to buyer in Germany for $350,he loves it.I kept the 36" bar & chain to go on my Husky 288XP,that was worth $100 by itself.The Husky has even more power,just 2 lbs heavier & is much easier to start,not a knuckle breaker like the 475 was.I checked the compression on it before boxing it up for sale - was just under 190PSI,no wonder the damn thing practically threw my right shoulder out every time. :lol:

I figure I did OK, used the hell out of it 17 1/2 yrs, it made me decent part time cash & ended up selling it for 1/2 what it cost me.

 

[BrotherBart]

If the 405 didn't have that decomp valve I would have chucked it years ago. :lol: Sometimes I forget and just pull the rope. Makes me remember real fast.

Here is my baby. Old Yaller. Brutal as my baby is. Getting to where I can't heft its 23 pound ass any more.

But I loved it in 2004 after the tornado when I kept hearing the lil saws down the hill running trying to clear trees off of driveways. Finally I tossed it in the back of the Suburban and headed down. I got out of the truck and there were three neighbors with their lil saws trying to attack a huge red oak laying over the end of a driveway. It sounded like a bee convention.

As I pulled Old Yaller out of the back of the truck I grabbed the rope and ripped it to life. The whole bunch turned and looked. One of the kids made my day. "Hot damn. A real chainsaw Dad!". Asked them to take a break and made short work of that tree.

 

[BrotherBart]

BB, a "Chi-Com" saw? You too must be a closet Chinese saw guy. Well, no longer in the closet.

Not until UPS comes Friday Jerry. Then the experiment begins. It may be a piece of crap. We shall see.