Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert

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Leeboy

New Member
Dec 30, 2021
19
Kamloops B.C.
We had the chimney cleaned on the weekend and no way in heck will the top baffle plate drop down over the heat tube . Tried everything . Pulled the side supports out , cleaned them and under it and no go . Almost like the two side rail supports are bent . I can get it all lined up , and then the sides are wedged and it can’t tilt forward to drop because the front ( facing me) end wedges against the top. We moved into this house last year and never had a fire place or insert before . So possibly it’s always been like this . The steel on the side plates that look bent is pretty thick . And they are both bent exactly the same . I’m outa ideas and won’t burn if I can’t get it to drop down into place . Here are some pictures of what I’m dealing with .

[Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert [Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert [Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert [Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert [Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert [Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert [Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert [Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert [Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert
 
It looks like the insert was run pretty hot and more than once. The side rails look badly warped. Do you have a 4" vise or a sheetmetal brake. I would try to straighten out the warp on each one.

The side insulation blanket looks pretty ratty. That may need replacement. These side blankets are important because they seal up the sides of the baffle so that the hot gases flow over the top of the baffle. If they are compromised or missing, it may be possible that the flames were bypassing the baffle and running up the sides over the side rails. That may have contributed to the warpage.

If you want to bring the insert up to factory snuff then a full blanket kit and 2 side rails will run about $300-350. I would also do a dollar bill test on the stove door gasket to make sure it is still sealing well.
 
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Thank you so much for the detailed and informative active response . I’ll take a picture of the insulation out and each side rail and the baffle. I want to be 100% sure it’s right before we use it . If replacing the parts is better than trying to bend them back , then we should probably go that route . Although bending is cheaper , I work in the fire and flood industry , so safer is top priority . And that side rail material has to be 1/4 thick steel . Tuff bend 💪🏽
 
I'm not sure that the side rails in this stove are factory spec. They look like they may be a homemade replacement. The original PE side rails are stainless steel and about 1/8" thick. With proper operation, they should last the life of the stove.
 
Morning/afternoon gang . So we dismantled all the tin and stuff to get to the serial number which was against the original brick wall . Managed to sneak a somewhat decent picture . Looks like it was built in 1989. 32 years old 😵‍💫. I also noticed we have cracked bricks . Not sure how much this will all ad up to . Side rails , bricks , gaskets , insulation etc . Being this old , is it time to think new one ? Maybe gas ? I was at the store we have here and a new one similar is $3500 CAD 🇨🇦. Still can’t even see the model number maybe someone here can help with that ? Picture below .

[Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert [Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert
 
Last night I was wondering to myself about the age of this stove and whether the old rails were original. They used to be steel way back. The stove may be newer than 1989. That could be the date of the EPA filing.

The firebrick is standard-sized, but pumice brick. Cracked bricks can swap position with the floor bricks if just cracked. Or they can be purchased new., though frankly, the firebrick is not in bad shape. The baffle looks in good shape too, but this is a Super (Pacific) insert and not a Summit. The firebox is too narrow to be the Summit which has 4 firebricks in the rear. I can change the title so that Super owners may join in and speak up.

If you choose to keep it, then replace the rails and get a new blanket kit for it which will include the top blanket and baffle side insulation pieces. Also, remember to order the inexpensive baffle gaskets (get a few). The door gasket should be carefully checked and the dollar bill test done all around the door. If it needs replacing order that too. For about $400 it should be ready for many seasons of use.
 
Well that’s great positive news . Thanks so much . I’m going to pull the baffle out clean it off and get a picture here shortly of both sides . Also , how did you come up with the model ? By the serial number ?
 
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I have a Spectrum Classic of roughly the same vintage as your insert (1998) with similar siderails. One siderail is warped,preventing the baffle from seating on the gasket, same issue as yours. I think the older PE stoves didn't have SS rails originally as mine have a bit of rust, the warped side has quite a bit of erosion/missing metal, too.I have a hydraulic press that should take the warp out and buy me a year or so but it looks like I'm in the market for a new pair of rails....my local store has a pair for $250 Cdn.
 
Well that’s great positive news . Thanks so much . I’m going to pull the baffle out clean it off and get a picture here shortly of both sides . Also , how did you come up with the model ? By the serial number ?
Tom Oyen was the great repository of all PE info. He sadly passed earlier this year.

Do you have a local PE dealer that could help? Or a call into Duncan, BC maybe?
 
After a closer look both side rails were warped and it looks like to remove them I will have to cut them out....what a pain, but at least I have the tools.
 
Warping may have them pinched onto the firebrick. With the baffle removed, take a mallet and try banging upward on their underside if possible.
Note: anytime the baffle is pulled the baffle air feed tube should be plugged with a rag. Put a new gasket around the tube before replacing the baffle.
 
I called the store that carries PE and gave him the serial number , he said he is not sure if he can even figure out the exact model
I have by that number. I may have to try another city. When the fellow cleaned out chimney. He never plugged that vent tube . What kind of trouble can I run into with this now ? Or try a vacuum down there ?
 
Warping may have them pinched onto the firebrick. With the baffle removed, take a mallet and try banging upward on their underside if possible.
Note: anytime the baffle is pulled the baffle air feed tube should be plugged with a rag. Put a new gasket around the tube before replacing the baffle.
The fire brick was loose already, I was able to remove them once I gained an 1/2 inch space above them tapping with a mallet, but all the momentum I could get into my swing couldn't budge them further.... the front corners were free but the back corners were almost cemented in with what turned out to be corrosion and wood ash. I was almost convinced they were welded in! I have a photo of one siderail cut on my phone, I'll post it later.
 
Here's the side rail with the front corner cut away. Even like this it took some doing to free the other piece,I hope Leeboy's side rails aren't as stuck as mine were, it took an hour with a cutting blade in a grinder to free the suckers!
Edited to add: The new SS siderails are ordered, hope the temps stay warm until they arrive....

[Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert
 
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I called the store that carries PE and gave him the serial number , he said he is not sure if he can even figure out the exact model
I have by that number. I may have to try another city. When the fellow cleaned out chimney. He never plugged that vent tube . What kind of trouble can I run into with this now ? Or try a vacuum down there ?
As far as I can tell those side rails are pretty standard.Your photos look a lot like my Spectrum Classic inside.The only wrinkle is if your serial number is below a certain value (84,156) in my case if it is below that number 4 pieces of angle iron have to be welded to the new siderails....You have a Super insert with a valid serial number, PE should be able to give you an answer. Edited to add : My Spectrum Classic didn't have a model number on the case/tag, I don't think PE does it this way, they just go with names/titles....
 
The store employee called me back and said he had called the rep and gave him the serial number and year . The rep said that wasn’t enuff information . I’d have to remove the stove or smash the bricks to get a better picture . Here is a picture of the front

[Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert
 
I got lucky with my side rails , they just lift right out .
Here's the side rail with the front corner cut away. Even like this it took some doing to free the other piece,I hope Leeboy's side rails aren't as stuck as mine were, it took an hour with a cutting blade in a grinder to free the suckers!
Edited to add: The new SS siderails are ordered, hope the temps stay warm until they arrive....

View attachment 300749

As far as I can tell those side rails are pretty standard.Your photos look a lot like my Spectrum Classic inside.The only wrinkle is if your serial number is below a certain value (84,156) in my case if it is below that number 4 pieces of angle iron have to be welded to the new siderails....You have a Super insert with a valid serial number, PE should be able to give you an answer. Edited to add : My Spectrum Classic didn't have a model number on the case/tag, I don't think PE does it this way, they just go with names/titles....
 
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My new side rails came today and they dropped right in. Thinner gauge but they're now SS ...I'll fire it up soon.Here's to another 20 years....

Edited to add: Leeboy, if you are replacing the mineral wool insulation over the baffle you can find less expensive alternatives from kiln suppliers, I saved a few bucks going this route as PE charges roughly 2.5x the rate that I paid.

[Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert [Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert
 
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That looks more like it. Now we just need to see some fire in that beauty. I don't think I have seen a green model yet.
 
That looks more like it. Now we just need to see some fire in that beauty. I don't think I have seen a green model yet.
I fired it up last night actually. It wasn't quite cold enough but I had to see how my repairs turned out, it was worth the night spent roasting!

Yah, I'd never seen an enameled stove before of any colour, it's like a nice piece of furniture...I'll post a clip of it burning next chance I get.
 
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Here's a photo of it from last year, and a couple of an effen squirrel that managed to climb down the flue and into the firebox!!! Crazy little booger....but like the saying goes, "If you're gonna act dumb, you better be tough"

[Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert [Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert [Hearth.com] Cannot get the baffle to drop over the heat tube on a Super insert
 
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I can't believe how improved this stove is! Set the first 'real' fire just now and instead of having to leave the door open a crack for 1/2 hour to get the draft started now I wait a couple of minutes or 4 then close the door and it takes off like gangbusters! The flue heats up in 1/4 of the time it used to take and no more back drafts when I open the door....like a new stove for $300 in parts....
 
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I can't believe how improved this stove is! Set the first 'real' fire just now and instead of having to leave the door open a crack for 1/2 hour to get the draft started now I wait a couple of minutes or 4 then close the door and it takes off like gangbusters! The flue heats up in 1/4 of the time it used to take and no more back drafts when I open the door....like a new stove for $300 in parts....
That's great news. It should be good for many more years of good service now.
 
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The store employee called me back and said he had called the rep and gave him the serial number and year . The rep said that wasn’t enuff information . I’d have to remove the stove or smash the bricks to get a better picture . Here is a picture of the front

View attachment 300756
This looks exactly like my 1997 PE Pacific insert, except with the oversized face. Same iron side rails and baffle. Your number info is identical to mine, and begreen is right, the 1989 ID refers to the UL testing date. Your serial number is higher than mine (30*** vs 41***) so I'd guess that you have an early 2000s Pacific insert.
 
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