Can't find wood w/ moisture content under 20%

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frattman

New Member
Jul 29, 2013
7
connecticut
As a first time wood purchaser, I've called around to a lot of suppliers, including very large lumber mills. Not a single person could tell me the moisture content of their wood, and some didn't even know about the concept of testing a wood's water content. One said " You're welcome to come by and test it, I'd like to know myself."

One supplier split the wood one week prior to delivery, one a month prior - both of these had more than 35%

The largest lumber mill said they split the wood 8 mo. previous and it's content was 25%. Not a single person had any concept of how a new EPA stove insert worked or why it needs dry wood.

I've tried some of my wood in the stove (30%) and it immediately made the glass opaque at low temp burn.

Thank God this is the first and ONLY time I will buy wood, as I've got two years worth stacked and plan on a 3 year rotation.
 
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The stuff at 25% would burn fine. That's better than what most first timers deal with.
 
I would go with the 25% stuff as well if it's reasonable . . . top cover, stack loose and it will continue to season for the next few months as you use it.
 
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You need a fresh split to get the true moisture content. Your wood dealer, if he did check it, most likely put the prongs into the outside piece sitting 8 months.:confused: It's tough to get true seasoned wood from a dealer. A true 25 percent is okay for now until you can burn your own stuff next year.
 
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Not a single person had any concept of how a new EPA stove insert worked or why it needs dry wood.
Not a bit surprised. But you're way ahead of most first-season burners who don't even know to ask.

If you can get 25% stuff and verify it, you'll be okay. If you must burn anything higher that that, you can supplement the loads with a commercial product like biobricks, North Idaho Energy Logs, etc. Some like to use super dry wood from pallets or some other source to help.

Next year will be better. We've all been there. Let us know how you're doing. If you continue to have problems, members here can help.

Be sure to inspect your flue a few times this season to see how it's going and sweep if necessary. Flue brushes aren't too expensive, and the SootEater is good.
 
I burned some 25% stuff last year , I put some dry pallet wood in with it and had good hot fires
 
The 25% will probably be the best you can get but even with that wood I'd supplement it with north Idaho energy logs or the logic-e energy night logs. Another think you can do if you have a truck or access to one is peruse craigslist and maybe find someone that has seasoned wood that has switched to pellets or sold their house and want to sell the wood. I've picked up a few cords of seasoned wood this way for cheap money too.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I did test the wood myself, including at the lumberyard and made sure to re-split (which is where I read 25%). I guess I'll try supplementing the wood for my overnight burns and just running the fire a little hotter in the daytime. I'm going w/ the 25% stuff and I'll try to loose stack it. It's a good thing that I've found this place because there is plenty of misinformation out there.
 
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If you have room In a reasonable safe area by the stove bring in & stack some there, that will help dry it a bit more. just keep rotating fresh stock for what ya use. But give a bit before you start using rotating to get a leg up. Most of the time pallets can be a good source for dryer stuff to mix in. and of course the bio brick stuff as well as mentioned above.
 
Also, If you can get your hands on some ash.... the stuff will burn when it's green. It got me through my first year, just make sure to check your stack regularly (I did every week).
 
Burning any wood at a low temp will pretty much result in your glass becoming coated, reguardless of its moisture content. You need to have it hot enough to fire the secondaries or it will be a mess.
 
Also, If you can get your hands on some ash.... the stuff will burn when it's green. It got me through my first year, just make sure to check your stack regularly (I did every week).

Ash will burn more efficiently than other green wood, but I would not recommend burning it green. You have the same problems you'd have as burning other green wood, only perhaps to a lesser degree.

25% wood should be okay. Maybe resplit some pieces so they're on the smaller side and use those to start the fire. Once the fire gets good and hot throw some of the larger pieces on, and at 25% you should have no problems.
 
It's a good thing that I've found this place because there is plenty of misinformation out there.

Sometimes ignorance is both bliss and convenient.

Stack what you have now loose in a good stack and you're further ahead than you would be if you waited till December.
 
Also, If you can get your hands on some ash.... the stuff will burn when it's green. It got me through my first year, just make sure to check your stack regularly (I did every week).

That statement is one I really hate to hear or read. I know not why it get perpetuated but it is pure baloney. Oh sure, you can burn it green if you want to. You can burn lots of wood green if you want to, but it won't burn good and you'll be wasting a lot of energy keeping the fire going after you evaporate the moisture to get it burning.

I think why some folks believe this is because ash is indeed one of the lower moisture woods but it is still about 35% when cut green. That is too high even for the old smoke dragons of old.

I'll add that one year we fell into some rotten luck and I ended up having to suck it up and buy some wood. Didn't figure it was a problem as I knew someone who was selling lots of wood. Known that man most of my life. However, he brought fresh cut ash. No, we did not freeze that winter but certainly was not warm either. We burned a lot more wood than normal and cleaned our chimney about 6 times that winter. So, yes, it burned. But I would never advise anyone to do it. Funny thing is that one fellow I sold some wood (ash) to said the very same thing. "This stuff will burn green!" When I informed him that the wood was 3 years old he about flipped....but he loved it after using it.
 
You know BS its that Ash poem of long ago that started all this:confused:
 
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Thanks for the advice guys. I did test the wood myself, including at the lumberyard and made sure to re-split (which is where I read 25%). I guess I'll try supplementing the wood for my overnight burns and just running the fire a little hotter in the daytime. I'm going w/ the 25% stuff and I'll try to loose stack it. It's a good thing that I've found this place because there is plenty of misinformation out there.

Welcome to the forum frattman.

For sure on that 25% wood, stack it loosely. Resplit it to get it smaller if possible. Stack it off the ground and in the windiest spot you can find. Don't worry about sun as you won't get much good from that the rest of this fall. Cover the top of the stack but not the sides or ends. You may make out quite well and it sounds like you are an intelligent man so I'll guess that you will make out. Make sure you check your chimney regularly. I'd check it monthly for all of this winter. If it needs cleaning, it does not take long to do it and the materials for doing it are not expensive. Good luck.
 
As I said, It got me through my first year. I would not recommend burning it (or anything else) green, unless you absolutely had to. I learned my lesson, and now have 2.5 -3 years of wood at varying states of dryness.

It is usually possible to get ash that has been cut with the rest of the "seasoned" wood, and is in better shape than the rest of the pile. I found that it seemed to dry quicker than the rest of the wood I got.

Your mileage may vary.
 
Well if its 25% in the middle that means some of it is 20% and even lower on the outside so should be fine.
BWS-my Green Ash burns just fine.;)
 
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