Country Comfort insert drafting questions

[Storm]

I recently had a Country Comfort insert given to me. It seems to be a very nice stove with minimal use so far. I pulled the manual on the stove and it states to use a direct connect kit on the top of the stove flue up into the chimney flue. The stove I received did not come with one of these direct connect pieces and I cannot find a picture of one anywhere online. My stove has a rectangular opening at the flue with a slide damper. I was just going to have someone make me a direct connect, but I don't even know what size pipe to have this connect to. Any help would be appreciated!
Thank you.

Below is a quick picture of the stove. I can take to top cover off and show a picture of the flue opening on the stove if that would be of help.

 

[bholler]

I would run a full liner not just a direct connect it will work much better and be much safer. There are lots of places that make adapter boots or you can get a custom one made up.

 

[Storm]

I would run a full liner not just a direct connect it will work much better and be much safer. There are lots of places that make adapter boots or you can get a custom one made up.

Do you mean a full liner all the way up the chimney? And what size liner would be appropriate for this insert? Thanks.

 

[bholler]

that depends on the size of thet rectangular opening it should match the volume of the liner i would guess 7 or 8" but i need to know the size of the opening to know for sure

 

[Storm]

The size of the opening is 9" wide by 6" deep. And the house was built in '68 so I believe the chimney is very sound.

 

[bholler]

And the house was built in '68 so I believe the chimney is very sound.

what would make you think that a 46 year old chimney is necessarily sound? That is a long time for weather to take its tole on that masonry and allot of time for the liners to be damaged from heat moisture and corrosive gasses. And you would need an 8" liner to match that opening

 

[Storm]

Thanks for the information. Being that the chimney is on the outside of the house, I will install an insulated 8" liner with a cap and a back-off plate. Is there any specific liner you would recommend? For example, what type of steel, where to purchase, single wall? Thanks.

 

[bholler]

For wood stoves we always use heavy wall flex liner 304 alloy. But light wall will work also i would recomend against the double layer smooth wall stuff i dont find that it holds up as well. There is also preinsulated stuff available as well and that is fine.

 

[mellow]

Are you sure you want to plunk down that extra cash for an 8" insulated liner? Take a look at this thread: Country Comfort Insert

 

[bholler]

Are you sure you want to plunk down that extra cash for an 8" insulated liner?

I agree that i personally would not but some people like their old stoves and still want to use them. We install liners on 7 or 8 a year

 

[Squeaky_6]

This is the adapter that came with my country comfort stove. Oval must have been popular back in the day. I bought an adapter that I am hoping to connect it to my 6inch liner. If I were you I would have a adapter made to cover the opening into whatever diameter you decide for a liner. I am going to try and use this since I think making the adapter will be speedy.

 

[Storm]

This is the adapter that came with my country comfort stove. Oval must have been popular back in the day. I bought an adapter that I am hoping to connect it to my 6inch liner. If I were you I would have a adapter made to cover the opening into whatever diameter you decide for a liner. I am going to try and use this since I think making the adapter will be speedy.

This is the exact type of connector I will need with my insert. The problem is I cannot find a single store that has a compatible adapter. Does anyone know where I could get one or have one made? Thanks.

 

[Storm]

Are you sure you want to plunk down that extra cash for an 8" insulated liner? Take a look at this thread: Country Comfort Insert

I don't necessarily want to buy an 8" liner, but I don't know what my other options are for having a safe burning fire. I am new to all of this. I feel that the price spent on a liner and getting this stove running will pay for itself in cost savings for heating the house. My house currently has radiant ceiling heat and is not working well in all the rooms and it is very expensive for electric heat. Around $250 a month when its below freezing at all. I would like to be able to heat with wood in the very cold months of the year here in WV.

 

[mellow]

I would sell that thing and buy a newer insert that will use a 6" insulated liner (Will an 8" or 6" insulated fit in your chimney??)

In order to use that stove you will also have to buy this: http://woodheatstoves.com/oval-to-round-adapter-p-17614.html

By the time you get done you will have quite a bit of money invested into that insert to make it right, and that is not including if the cat in it is still good, if not that will be $200 to replace.

 

[Storm]

I would sell that thing and buy a newer insert that will use a 6" insulated liner (Will an 8" or 6" insulated fit in your chimney??)

In order to use that stove you will also have to buy this: http://woodheatstoves.com/oval-to-round-adapter-p-17614.html

By the time you get done you will have quite a bit of money invested into that insert to make it right, and that is not including if the cat in it is still good, if not that will be $200 to replace.

Is there a reason buying a newer insert is better than fixing this one up? Are they a lot more efficient? I'm just want to try and make the best decision. If I put say $300-$400 into fixing this insert up and an extra $300 on an 8" liner vs a 6" liner, then wouldn't I still be spending less money on using the one I have? And if I do go that route and decide to upgrade my insert later, would I have to redo the liner to a 6" or is having a larger liner than needed ok? I haven't checked my chimney dimensions yet as I need to borrow a ladder to get onto my roof. It looks like it is a dual flu chimney, so I may be limited on my space for an insulated liner.

And if I do go with a newer one, do you have any recommendations?

Thanks!

 

[mellow]

I personally can't stand the looks of those old country comfort stoves, that just screams 80's, though some might like that look.

You wouldn't want to run a stove made for a 6" exhaust running on 8", it will not draft as good, you might have to change to a 6" liner.

Depending on which one your efficiency could jump quite a bit, if you go with a BK princess insert your burn times and efficiency will jump quite a bit, it will marginally look better

I would get something new that will last for a long time if this is something you are serious about, if you want suggestions for a new insert I would start a new thread with all the info about your house and fireplace size and the size of your chimney and height so this one doesn't get all gunked up.

 

[Storm]

I personally can't stand the looks of those old country comfort stoves, that just screams 80's, though some might like that look.

You wouldn't want to run a stove made for a 6" exhaust running on 8", it will not draft as good, you might have to change to a 6" liner.

Depending on which one your efficiency could jump quite a bit, if you go with a BK princess insert your burn times and efficiency will jump quite a bit, it will marginally look better

I would get something new that will last for a long time if this is something you are serious about, if you want suggestions for a new insert I would start a new thread with all the info about your house and fireplace size and the size of your chimney and height so this one doesn't get all gunked up.

Mellow,

Thanks for all the info. It was truly a great help.

 

[Squeaky_6]

Storm,
Country Comfort went out of business. If you need an adapter and don't have one like mine, I would just get a plate of steel and have a cirle cut into it and a pipe the diameter you need welded to it and then secure that to the stove. The adapter I have is kinda a pain. I bought a Vermont Stove company oval to round adapter, and I am going to have to plug it with gasket tape and stove mortar to fill in the gaps since it doens fit exactly. I am debating just having a round adpater made to avoid the oval design all together.

I wouldnt sell that thing...I paid 300 for mine and just finished sanding it all and painted it black. turned out nice and hope to install it soon. Look on craigslist for used good chimney liner. I found over 20 feet of flex for 225!

Do people on here think this insert would work with a six inch liner?????

 

[Storm]

Squeaky,
Does this insert have a cat?

 

[Squeaky_6]

If you have the CC300, which mine is, then no. There is a baffle with a secondary burn tube, that is also why there is a hole in back. But no cat, I believe they had a different model with a cat. Your's looks identical to mine though. Snap a picture of your baffle and I will tell you if same as mine.

 

[Storm]

If you have the CC300, which mine is, then no. There is a baffle with a secondary burn tube, that is also why there is a hole in back. But no cat, I believe they had a different model with a cat. Your's looks identical to mine though. Snap a picture of your baffle and I will tell you if same as mine.

Here is a picture of my baffle.

 

[Squeaky_6]

Same as mine. That triangle coming down is a secondary burn tube, in the back there will be a hole about the size of a quarter for it to get outside air.

Above that baffle is your damper, which you control from the front, but no cat!

 

[mitre]

Storm, you have a CC300 with a stainless steel baffle. Fantastic, high quality non-cat. stove. You can purchase an 8 inch stove connector, round, from M&G Duravent. Look in the Duraliner catalog. It's not cheap, but you will need to run 8 inch liner the FULL length of the chimney! Also, to meet code, you need 1/2 inch aluminized (white) insulation run from the stove through the damper, about 5 feet, also not cheap. I highly recommend insulating the entire length of the chimney. It will draw twice a good, burn 1/2 the amount of wood, stay hotter longer, and have a much easier time getting a fire started. I can get you more info if you go this route.

 

[mitre]

Also, you may need an oval stove connector and oval flex pipe to get through the existing damper/smoke shelf area of your fireplace. You can then switch to round flex pipe, or keep it as oval to the chimney top/rain cap.

 

[bholler]

Also, to meet code, you need 1/2 inch aluminized (white) insulation run from the stove through the damper, about 5 feet

What code is that? The only code having to do with insulation says that if you do not have proper clearance to combustibles (which most do not) you need to insulate the whole thing. I have never seen anything in any code book about insulating just the bottom part. I also strongly recommend insulating the whole liner regardless of clearances it will work much better. And I would never ovalize to go through the damper cut the damper out so you can keep it round the whole way again it will work much better and be easier to clean.