Cover Ideas for Drying Stacks

[Jason A]

Good Morning,

I've stacked this years wood supply in two separate stacks for the drying months. Each one is single wide (16") by 48'. I've tried my best to find a 3' x 48' tarp but I can't locate any manufacturer that sells one that narrow. As of now, I'm just using 4 mil plastic sheeting that I cover with when rain is in the forecast. It's a real hassle and not great at protecting the wood from water.

My question, does anybody have any clever ideas to keep these stacks dry on top while allowing maximum airflow?

My current idea is 2' x 12' corrugated roofing panels (poly or metal). Anybody ever done anything like that?

Thanks in advance

Jason

 

[tadmaz]

Why not just leave the plastic sheeting up all the time? I use 6 mil black plastic, it comes in 3' wide rolls.

 

[bholler]

I build racks out of skids then cover with corrugated metal. But when i started i used tar paper untill i gathered enough metal to cover

 

[buc74]

rubber roofing works well.

 

[Jason A]

I like that rubber roofing idea. The plastic sheeting is too lightweight for the wind coming across the property. Once I re-stack in the late fall I'll be using pallets and roofing panels. I hope by next Summer I'll be building a woodshed.

 

[BoiledOver]

Here is what has been going on in our neck of the woods for many years, it's a proven method. No cover is needed until early September of the season of use, top cover only. Maybe 10 or 12 inches down the side is ok but ya have to let the stack breath all winter while drawing from it. Seventeen cords sitting here totally exposed and will remain that way until the September of its use. We use about 4 cords per winter.

Some folks don't cover any part of their piles or stacks and have warm homes throughout the winter. Planning ahead is better practice than covering. Our stuff is 13-22 percent moisture content right now as it sits, works well for the indoor boiler at 18% and lower.

There may very well be locations that require wood sheds but I think that would be a minority. My two cents gleaned from hands-on experience.

 

[maple1]

I'm on a windy hill top. I've tried a few things and haven't found anything cheaper or easier or more efficient than simply a tarp just as wide as the stack then another layer of wood on top of that to keep the tarp in place. That top layer of wood also will help keep the sun off the tarp so it will last longer.

You could either fold it over to get it down to the right width, or cut a wider tarp into strips the right width and maybe Tuck Tape the edges to stop any fraying from happening. If you get a brown one you won't hardly be able to tell there is a tarp there.

 

[Woody5506]

this summer I'm keeping everything uncovered, and by September or so I will re-tarp with my green harbor freight tarps which have seemed to hold up just fine. I fold them a few times and carefully lay them over the stacks, then put uglies or small rounds on top to hold down.

The harbor freight tarps seem to be the best deal, and most of mine are in their 2nd year with plenty of life left in them. No major fraying or holes.

 

[Ctwoodtick]

After some experience, I always top cover. I use thin cheap corrugated metal roofing. If possible, bend the sharp corners down so that no gets injured. I have the corrugated roofing held down by uglies that would otherwise be difficult to split. Works well overall.

 

[fire_man]

I tried the "no cover till September of the year of use" method and it didn't go so well. The stacks of previously perfect hardwood were decaying into punk after 3+ years. I stack my rows so standard size high quality tarps fit over multiple rows.

No more worries and I can't imagine taking them off every time there was rain in the forcast.

 

[jeffesonm]

Rubber roofing is the best if you can get your hands on it. Heavier than tarps so it doesn't blow off as easily, and never rips or tears on sharp edges/corners of splits. Try and find a commercial roofer, they probably tear it off old jobs and dispose of it. I got a huge stack of it from Habitat Restore that clearly came off a commercial job and was well used and dirty, but 5 years later it's no worse for the wear.

 

[Sodbuster]

I'm a tar paper guy myself, gets the job done, and is cheap. Plus I initially stack on blacktop in full sun to get the benefits of the radiant heat.

 

[creek chub]

I get used concrete forms from s construction supplier. They are about 24”x 8’ and free. The supply is limited so when the company sets them out i grab a trailer full. I secure them on the stacks with duck decoy string

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

After some experience, I always top cover. I use thin cheap corrugated metal roofing. If possible, bend the sharp corners down so that no gets injured. I have the corrugated roofing held down by uglies that would otherwise be difficult to split. Works well overall.

Same here. I put it on my rows for 1-2 years before they get moved under cover for their final year of drying/storage until burning.

It wont keep them perfectly dry in all conditions but it makes a huge difference.

 

[barnaclebob]

I've used scrap corrugated fiberglass roofing and its worked great so far but I'm still new at this. No water pooling and you just need to keep a few logs or rocks on top to keep it from blowing away.

Another option is to buy rolls of greenhouse plastic and cut it to the width you want.

 

[creek chub]

Another idea I have considered is buying discarded industrial sized rubber belts. I still haven’t made it by the supplier but there may be merit in using them. Definitely water resistant and not likely to blow off stacks

 

[BIGChrisNH]

I've been using old conveyor belts from a quarry and they work great, but they are extremely heavy to move. I've learned to cut them (no easy feat in itself) to smaller lengths before trying to heave up on top of a pile. Family connection to the quarry pays off, every year some of the conveyor belts need replacing, but they will essentially last forever.

 

[creek chub]

I've been using old conveyor belts from a quarry and they work great, but they are extremely heavy to move. I've learned to cut them (no easy feat in itself) to smaller lengths before trying to heave up on top of a pile. Family connection to the quarry pays off, every year some of the conveyor belts need replacing, but they will essentially last forever.

What do you cut them with?

 

[Sodbuster]

What do you cut them with?

You can cut them with a Stanley knife, just make sure you have a new blade. Put another piece of belting under where are cutting to protect the blade tip. Dipping the blade in water every few slices helps lubricate the cut. Take your time it's tough stuff.

 

[ohlongarm]

View attachment 227606 rubber roofing works well.

all my stacks identical,did you copy me or me you?either way looks good and wood lasts a long time this way,some of my stacks are near 10 years now.
Not finished here ,note rubber roofing left corner,best set up i've found.

 

[blades]

Bill board signs- super heavy duty tarps

 

[ohlongarm]

Bill board signs- super heavy duty tarps

whatever works for you,one of my best friends has a huge roofing company,so rubber roofing is free,rolls on very easy and shed water unbelievable. If rubber roofing isn't an option Rhino Roof works as well,it's light ,I staple to stacks as shown here lasts virtually years.

 

[ohlongarm]

all my stacks identical,did you copy me or me you?either way looks good and wood lasts a long time this way,some of my stacks are near 10 years now.
Not finished here ,note rubber roofing left corner,best set up i've found.View attachment 229727

Note the 4x4 that snapped in half had a 12 ga shotgun slug imbedded in it,that weakened it and allowed water to get in over the years and weaken it.First one since 2004 so can't complain.

 

[BIGChrisNH]

Yeah exactly as Sodbuster says, a utility knife works provided it's sharp and you have some patience.

 

[ohlongarm]

whatever works for you,one of my best friends has a huge roofing company,so rubber roofing is free,rolls on very easy and shed water unbelievable. If rubber roofing isn't an option Rhino Roof works as well,it's light ,I staple to stacks as shown here lasts virtually years.

About 400 linear feet shown here.