DIY Pellet Stove Controller

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thumper_65590

New Member
Nov 28, 2021
16
Missouri
I have an autostart Englander 25- PVDC that has a faulty board and 350.00 seams a little high for me for a 300.00 dollar stove. My stove only has 2 vacuum switches and a control board head sensor. I would like to 1) build a controller for the stove with off the shelf components, 2) add some snap switches for safety, and 3) get the stove back up and running. My stove has 2 feed augers, 1 to the pot, and then a hopper auger. Looking at a few diagrams I have found here, I could make a DIY control board that has all the safety switches, as well as adding a few snap switches that my stove doesn't currently have for added safety. I was looking at this timer to run the top auger: Inkbird Digital Timer. I was thinking of using this Snap Sensor for the high limit, and putting in the location of the current heat sensor, but I like the idea of the manual reset snap sensor if anyone has any ideas for the one I should use. I also like the idea of having a sensor in the exhaust pipe to monitor the temp of the exhaust pipe incase it gets too hot. I plan on keeping the vacuum sensors, as they are a normally open sensor, so if the exhaust fan shuts down, it breaks the feed circuit to the entire stove from what I have gleamed. As far as the room fan, I am looking at a standard ceiling fan control unit. This is what I am thinking, and as I said, I would like to add a snap switch on the exhaust pipe before it gets to the wall, just not sure how to add it in, or what switch to use. What does every one think? Would it work until I can afford either a different stove or a new control board? From what I am thinking it would be pretty much like the older analog pellet stoves.

CONTROL BOARD LAYOUT.png
 
Your convection fan should be labeled exhaust fan.
Search on this forum, somebody else built a simple controller with a timer relay.
 
Some people have had success fixing the control board. What are the symptoms when it doesnt work?
The top auger doesn't feed. I have went through all the trouble shooting. Reset to D/641 on the control board, bypassed the vacuum switches one at a time, then both at the same time, unplugged the heat sensor, did the leaf blower clean out. I can run it in diagnostic mode, so I know both augers are working. The auto ignition doesn't work, but that could be a bad igniter, I haven't checked that yet. When I got it, the fuse was blown, so I would say it had a power surge go through it and probably took out some of the triacs. I plan on getting it up and running with a DIY controller, then seeing if I can rebuild my controller.
 
Well, did a little more research/reading and started troubleshooting my control board. I think i have a bad triac. Going to see if i can get a new one tomorrow and replace it and see what happens.
 
If you can run it in diagnostics mode and the auger works the triac is not the problem. More then likely its a corrupt eprom. They (englander) wont sell just the eprom. You will have to replace the board. High current draw will also damage the step down coil which in turn may have sent higher voltage to the prom chip they have low tolerance for voltage/amperage spikes.
 
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