Drolet Myriad 3 Install.

[Blitzedkrieg87]

Hi folks.

Long time reader. First time poster.

So here's what I have.

I have an external chimney running the side of my house. It's a block chimney. Not clay lined. As far as I can see it's just block.

The chimney had an old stainless liner that had seen better days.

I bought a new flex liner kit. Kit includes the chimney top plate. The rain cap. The 2 piece T. And the flex liner itself.

The stove is a drolet myriad 3. Location is in the basement. There is a hole in the basement wall running into the block chimney outside the basement wall.

I have limited vertical clearance off the top of the stove before I have to go horizontal through the wall.

I'm looking to go up maybe 10" off the top of the stove with single wall into an adjustable 90* and proceed into double wall 6" to the stainless T and then up the flex liner to the top of the chimney.

Basically looking to see what you all see that I don't. I'll attach some pics and some ideas here.

In the pictures you'll see the old setup someone put in long before me. I am currently cleaning out that rectangle opening to accommodate the double wall and have torn out all of the old pipe.

When it's finished it should be a clean rectangle opening through both the basement wall and the exterior chimney. About 9" wide. 15" tall and somewhere around 20" to the back face of the chimney.

 

[Blitzedkrieg87]

Some additional information.

There is a structure behind the stove. It's a home office. I will be building heat shield of some description for that entire area since its so close in proximity to the stove.

In regard to the horizontal double wall and the rectangle opening. I'm looking to build a rectangle box to fit that entire cavity to support the double wall horizontal as well as provide structural integrity back to the block. It will look something like the sketchup drawing below.

I'm not dead set on this idea. So feel free to add insight here. I am really just looking for some insight and or guidance from those that may have similar setups.

 

[begreen]

It sounds like class A chimney pipe is what is being called double-wall. Is that correct? In this situation, with a 100% non-combustible wall, chimney pipe is not needed. A long tee snout off the liner tee would suffice. It can go through a 7" clay tile mortared in place.

 

[Blitzedkrieg87]

It sounds like class A chimney pipe is what is being called double-wall. Is that correct? In this situation, with a 100% non-combustible wall, chimney pipe is not needed. A long tee snout off the liner tee would suffice. It can go through a 7" clay tile mortared in place.

Yes. That is correct. Referring to class A as double wall.

The idea was that I need a way to connect from the T to the entrance of the basement wall. It's about 16" gap (through two 8" block layers. Chimney and basement wall).

I also wanted to restore the structural integrity of the wall with the metal frame design. Maybe overkill. Probably overkill.

Figured if I ever needed to redo any of it, it would be accessible. Again... Probably overthinking this.

 

[Gearhead660]

Thoughts on making a new hole higher up to help with draft and so you could possibly move it further away from the wall, eliminating the need for heat shield? How tall is the entire chimney?

 

[Blitzedkrieg87]

I debated going higher, but I have already have a pretty decent hole in the wall as is. And I have 7, ceilings in the basement. So I didn't want to be close to the floor joists, water lines. Etc.

The total stack is probably 20-25'. I added more to the top of the chimney since this photo was taken.

 

[begreen]

If double-wall stovepipe is used, then it can be within 9" of the ceiling.