dutchwest 2479 WORST STOVE EVER

[bsa0021]

yeah i have a magnetic one on there to and it was at about 650. i also stopped it and dont know if it would have gone higher. i mean is that ok burning that hot. anythin above 1200 makes me nervous. but maybe not.

That's quite a big span of temps. I don't know why that is unless you have a leaking gasket somewhere. As I said before, I cruise around 500 degrees. At 1200 degrees I would think the outside of the stove be glowing red (not good).

 

[ecocavalier02]

its definatly not a gasket leak. it just happened these to times. and now it has been working fine. as soon as i take a piece of foil to the secondary air it cuts it way down. it just happens sometimes. i think if one of the pieces of wood is really really dry and a lot of draft it just goes nuts. i find if i shut the bypass and let primary air in at about 3 quarter and as soon as is the everburn starts to really kick in cut the air almost all the way back then it will stabilize at about 1000 then go down from there. thats about 500 on the magnetic thermometer. 2 years with this stove and im still learning. really takes some time. considering as well i have never burned in a stove before this one. i think im really starting to get it. lots of help from this forum. really appreciated.

 

[heffergm]

What are your griddle temps when you're seeing 1400 flie temps? I don't check my flue temp simply because I can't with my install. The stove has never been past 600 or so griddle temp and shows no inclination to run away on me (if anything it's more prone to stalling).

There was a good post a while back from the instructions that came with the VC stovetop thermometer:

Encore Burning Guide

When burning wood, place the thermometer on the griddle right of center.

At the beginning of a burn cycle it is necessary to establish a hot fire and a good draft in the chimney.  In order to accomplish this in most installations, the temperature should be in the 500*-600* range for 15 min. - 1/2 hour before the damper is closed.  

Once the damper is closed, it is advisable to set the thermometer on a high setting for 5-10 minutes to maintain proper draft. 

Experimentation will show you where to position the thermostat after this 5-10 minute period.

The usual operating range is 350*-600*, although slightly higher temperatures are all right when extra heat is needed.  Surface temperatures higher than 700 degrees are considered excessive.  At temperatures below 350 degrees the stove should be burned with the damper open.

 

[ecocavalier02]

Stove top temp bout 500 . Never gooes much above that

 

[Valhalla]

I feel that draft is an issue, as when I read
"elbow and tee," I first became suspect.

A cold start, with a marginal draft may be
causal to this fellow's frustration.

At 6:30 AM, I would lite a small draft fire with
softwood to heat up the flue. Then build
up the fire with some splits, only after it
is fully heated. Go to Everburn only
after a good hot coal base is established.
Most owners move that lever way too soon!

The condition of the flue may also be suspect
after many possible failed smoldering burns.

This may be a challenge while trying to get ready
for work and family needs. I would also consider
getting up earlier in the winter.

 

[ecocavalier02]

Well i think i figured out why its been overfireing. Some ome one here sId this wood be a problem and i think there right. I have. Outside air kit that comes down my wall about seven feet straight downand it was really pooring air down pushing lkle crazy. I could put a piece of paper up to it and it sould blow away. Specially after it stating getting really cold. MakinTg the stove like a big vaccum

 

[FireWalker]

Wall im now on about the 12th flawless free everburn. i think the orientation of how i load the stove and the wood im using are playing a major role. I'll keep ya guys posted. im starting to feel confident about the stove so i knocked each piece of wood before throwing it in the stove. haha. don't want to jinx myself...

When I read this post I thought it may be time to change the name of this thread and apologize to the folks at VC.





























Then I read the next post! :ahhh:

 

[ecocavalier02]

Well i think i figured out why its been overfireing. Some ome one here sId this wood be a problem and i think there right. I have. Outside air kit that comes down my wall about seven feet straight downand it was really pooring air down pushing lkle crazy. I could put a piece of paper up to it and it sould blow away. Specially after it stating getting really cold. MakinTg the stove like a big vaccum

Anybody have any thoughts on this being the problem?

 

[ecocavalier02]

Well im really figuring this thing and reAlly feel confident. The maple ive been burning has ben drying for two years as well. And i was letting it char up real good then closing the by pass and then it would go nuts. Just now i put a piece i. And then let it go for three minutes and it took off like normal without going crazy just burnig at normal temps. That and the combo of the combo of that air dumpin in there. Guess u got to be careful when the wood is reallh dry.

 

[bsa0021]

Wall im now on about the 12th flawless free everburn. i think the orientation of how i load the stove and the wood im using are playing a major role. I'll keep ya guys posted. im starting to feel confident about the stove so i knocked each piece of wood before throwing it in the stove. haha. don't want to jinx myself...

When I read this post I thought it may be time to change the name of this thread and apologize to the folks at VC.

Not me! I just cleaned my stove and after one year on a new $400 fountain it's begining to crack and seperate.





























Then I read the next post! :ahhh:

 

[bsa0021]

When I read this post I thought it may be time to change the name of this thread and apologize to the folks at VC.

Not me! I just cleaned my stove and after one year on a new $400 fountain it's begining to crack and seperate.





























Then I read the next post! :ahhh:

 

[ecocavalier02]

Well im oficially shutting her down. Thought i was feelinf confident until this thing has now overfired on me about seven times. I thought it was the wood thought it was the outside air kit. K dont see how it could be a gasket issue bcuz i stil get eight to nine hour burn time. I really am done for the season and will be turning the heat on. I will have to talk to the dealer all i knpw is i feel like i lost two years of my winter life to fighting this thing. And have been up then down and thinking i got it and then crash and boom it goes nutzo. Well fair well to the dw

 

[ecocavalier02]

n e body?

 

[Todd]

I don't know if this has already been suggested since I didn't feel like reading through the whole thread but have you talked to the dealer about a trade in? Just tell them it didn't work out like you wanted and your willing to buy a different stove from them if you could work out a deal. Or see what you could get on Craigs list and buy a new one. Don't feel bad, your not the only one here that has bought different stoves every year til you find the right one, I went through 3 in 5 years.

 

[ecocavalier02]

I did talk to them and that was a couple months ago wehen i told them i wasnt able to get the ec
verburn system to work. Now its been working good but the last 5 days or so its been going thermo nuclear. But i also made the switch to some maple. Been drying for just bout two years. I dont know if this could be the culprit or what. But it has scared the crap out of me. So i guess ill try it for another week mixing in just one or two pieces with the oak. As you can see this stove has made me bi polar one sexond shes history the next im in there for more trying to figure this thing out. Very exhausting. Its takin me this long to get it to work and now she keeps goin crazy but im ptetty sure its only been with the maple and not closing the air down fast enuf.

 

[Todd]

Your story sounds similar to many other neverburn stove owners here the last couple years. There are a few that seem to have mastered it, but it just seems like a real PITA for most. I know every load can burn different but it shouldn't be that hard to get a somewhat consistant burn from an EPA stove. Good luck.

 

[bsa0021]

Don't assume your gaskets are ok. Check the doors w/a dollar bill (all three doors). Check the gasket inside the damper. This one is not visable unless the top is removed but you can feel it to see if it is out of position. Is the back of the stove glowing red when it goes thermo? You will have to remove the thin outer steel (heat shield) at the back of the stove. If the back or sides glow red, your fountain is bad. Have you removed the shoe? It's also possible that the outer fountain is intact and the internal passageways have disintergrated creating a stronger draft or redirecting the draft due to fountain debris. Did you ever remove the flue collar? The gasket under the collar is easy to slide out as you bolt it down.
Finally, we have not seen any pictures of your set up. This may not help but sometimes a picture says it all.

 

[ecocavalier02]

Well i tbink im going to have the dealer come out and look. As i do not have the patience to deal with this. Ill let you lnow what they say. I just cant deal witb trying to take this apart anymore and fiddle with it. also like right now i just loaded up 4 pieces of oak let the go for 15 min shut bypass. with 3 inch coal bed at least and now its in the cresote level at about 400 internal temp. if there was some kind of leak why would it do this!? and not over fire everytime

 

[bsa0021]

Well i tbink im going to have the dealer come out and look. As i do not have the patience to deal with this. Ill let you lnow what they say. I just cant deal witb trying to take this apart anymore and fiddle with it. also like right now i just loaded up 4 pieces of oak let the go for 15 min shut bypass. with 3 inch coal bed at least and now its in the cresote level at about 400 internal temp. if there was some kind of leak why would it do this!? and not over fire everytime

If your dealer has been selling and operating these stoves for some time, that may be your best option. Right now, you have too many variables controlling your system. Look at it this way, you already know how finicky these stoves can be, now if you throw in a leaking gasket somewhere, especially the damper gasket, which as in my case, was moving in and out of it's grove everytime the damper was moved, how can you expect the stove to operate properly. We are not even considering some problem w/your install which could be another issue.

 

[ecocavalier02]

Do u think the fact i dont have a block off plate in the fire place woild make a differnce. I have the opening seed kff with insulation and a she of metal. This way here when i clean the chimney out i can Get to the t to clean it out. I also am really wonderi g if its the maple im trying just the oK and seem to be having no problems. Somebody ease have n e opinions on the wood? It seems to be very very dry.

 

[ecocavalier02]

Well were def going to make the switch next year to a different stove. so i will deal with this for the next couple months here but then this thing is gone! researching the blazeking princess and cant wait. trying to convince my wife to use are tax refund money to get it this year but i dont think she'll go for it. Ill keep you posted as to what the guy says from the dealer when he comes on monday.

 

[ecocavalier02]

Well the dealer never called us back so my wife called them back! needless to say they now want a 160 bucks an hour to come out and look at it. HAHHAHA. so i have made the decision to just shut it down. I no longer have the patience for this thing im so feed up that im actually going to pay to heat my house. It will really be sad to hear that furnace kick on, but oh well More wood for next year and it will now be 3 years split and dried. Ideal for a blaze king from what i hear. so oh well and farewell to the DW!! its been a long hard fight with this thing and i guess you could say this thing kicked my ass. I actually feel worn out from working with this thing. and thats no joke. ive worked harder on getting this thing to work than i have cutting and splitting wood.

 

[rkymtnoffgrid]

I have to chuckle, I feel your pain, I'm heading up to the cabin in 2 days to fool with mine with the goal to finally get a secondary burn to stabilize, I can't wait to find out whats in store.

 

[Valhalla]

Hindsight is always 20-20. The dealer and manufacturer
should have be notified in writing from the
beginning. We all fall into the casual trap that it
will be easily taken care of. Written requests
and good notes go a long way in proving a case.

I would still write to the manufacturer directly.

 

[ecocavalier02]

well i posted pictures somewhat of the install. let me know what you think. see anything unusual. there at this post here.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/48957/