I'm new to pellet stoves and I've been questioning the operation and setup of my new pellet stove. I'm burning wood pellets and on the highest setting I am getting around 200-210 F blowing out the front of the stove. I have read numerous posts but can not find any reference of what the air temps should be. This stove should more than take the chill off a 16x16 room running on the max settings.
England Stove Works 10-cpm heat output dF?
- Thread starter TheDeicide
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
woodmakesheat
Feeling the Heat
Those aren't far off from what I see. I see temps ranging from 190 - 250 degrees F depending on the pellets and how clean the stove is. Other stoves with lower flowing convection fans or tube type exchangers might see significantly higher temps, but it's the volume of flow and exit temperature that matter. Temperature readings cannot be compared from stove to stove of different brands. Many here heat their houses with this stove, including myself.
Define highest setting by providing all five settings that impact the stove's ability to produce heat into the room.
If you are sending it out the flue it isn't going into the room, if you aren't really feeding it maximum fuel you are not burning at maximum.
Then folks on here can offer suggestions and ask questions about whether are you just heating that 16' by 16' room or a whole lot more.
A picture or video of the burn could prove interesting as well.
If you are sending it out the flue it isn't going into the room, if you aren't really feeding it maximum fuel you are not burning at maximum.
Then folks on here can offer suggestions and ask questions about whether are you just heating that 16' by 16' room or a whole lot more.
A picture or video of the burn could prove interesting as well.
The only things I know to control it is the heat range which goes from 1 to 9 and the blower speed that goes from 1 to 9. The blower can not run lower than the heat range. It is not on a thermostat. I am running the stirring rod. It is set to burn pellets. I do have a pantry, laundry room and dining room which had doorways going to them. Regardless this is a 55,000 btu stove and I can't get the kitchen over 74 degrees on the highest setting.
My down stairs is under 800 sq feet and the kitchen is 16' x 15-1/2'. The stove is facing a very well insulated wall. I have a thermometer to the right and left of the stove mounted 5 feet off the floor. I hit 78 degrees Farenheit once.
Running at 9 and 9 on the control panel.
My down stairs is under 800 sq feet and the kitchen is 16' x 15-1/2'. The stove is facing a very well insulated wall. I have a thermometer to the right and left of the stove mounted 5 feet off the floor. I hit 78 degrees Farenheit once.
Running at 9 and 9 on the control panel.
Well that leaves your LBA and LFF settings that can control the output of the stove plus the pellet you are burning.
Now that you have told us that there are other rooms open to the room with the stove in, mind telling us the sizes of those and exactly how good is the very well insulated wall and the walls of all of the areas that are open to the room with the stove in it along with the height of the room(s) and how well air sealed is the house and if there are any fireplaces in the house.
It is exceeding rare for a stove to actually be heating a single room the convection air currents can carry a lot of heat to the other rooms and having high ceilings places a lot of the heated air flow up at ceiling level..
Also a picture of that stove burning can provide evidence if the stove is in low fire instead of high fire mode. As can pellet consumption figures. We have had cases of stoves thinking they are on a t-stat when they aren't which can leave the stove in low burn all the time.
Now that you have told us that there are other rooms open to the room with the stove in, mind telling us the sizes of those and exactly how good is the very well insulated wall and the walls of all of the areas that are open to the room with the stove in it along with the height of the room(s) and how well air sealed is the house and if there are any fireplaces in the house.
It is exceeding rare for a stove to actually be heating a single room the convection air currents can carry a lot of heat to the other rooms and having high ceilings places a lot of the heated air flow up at ceiling level..
Also a picture of that stove burning can provide evidence if the stove is in low fire instead of high fire mode. As can pellet consumption figures. We have had cases of stoves thinking they are on a t-stat when they aren't which can leave the stove in low burn all the time.
When I read the manual and watched the dvd it says the LBA and LFF are factory set. I'm guessing that means I am not supposed to mess with it. I also see nothing in the manual addressing how to set those. I do see how to change from factory preset pellet, corn, and cheery pit settings.
r13 in the walls, 7/16 OSB, caulked seems. Over sealed actually. The pantry is 6-1/2 x 7 although between 1/3 and half of it is cabinets with doors. The laundry room is identical and insulated the same as the kitchen. All new windows and doors. Again the stove is facing away from the dining room which is behind and to the left of the stove through a 34-1/2 x 80 doorway. The left thermometer is 12 feet from the left corner of the stove. The right thermometer is a whopping 6 feet from the right corner of the stove. from the stove front to the opposite wall is 11 feet. My ceilings are low in my opinion at only 7'-5-1/2" high.
r13 in the walls, 7/16 OSB, caulked seems. Over sealed actually. The pantry is 6-1/2 x 7 although between 1/3 and half of it is cabinets with doors. The laundry room is identical and insulated the same as the kitchen. All new windows and doors. Again the stove is facing away from the dining room which is behind and to the left of the stove through a 34-1/2 x 80 doorway. The left thermometer is 12 feet from the left corner of the stove. The right thermometer is a whopping 6 feet from the right corner of the stove. from the stove front to the opposite wall is 11 feet. My ceilings are low in my opinion at only 7'-5-1/2" high.
Where are the second story stairs?
R-13 isn't actually all that great and can actually be less if the wall construction allows bridging to occur.
Try one of those thermometers up at ceiling height, and while I'm thinking heat loss stuff what is the situation with insulation up above?
Any pellet consumption information?
R-13 isn't actually all that great and can actually be less if the wall construction allows bridging to occur.
Try one of those thermometers up at ceiling height, and while I'm thinking heat loss stuff what is the situation with insulation up above?
Any pellet consumption information?
To give you somewhat of an idea of differences between down low and up high it is 72.2
1 foot above stove level and 12' 45 degrees away from the left front corner of the stove at and 80.2 5' above and 8' in front of the stove. My stove is in a much larger room than yours, in fact a good part of it is below ground, the walls are R-19 and a lot of my heat is going up the stair well to heat the 1344 square feet up there.
1 foot above stove level and 12' 45 degrees away from the left front corner of the stove at and 80.2 5' above and 8' in front of the stove. My stove is in a much larger room than yours, in fact a good part of it is below ground, the walls are R-19 and a lot of my heat is going up the stair well to heat the 1344 square feet up there.
At 1 bag of pellets (8400 btu/lb) per 24 hours you have 336,000 btus input or 14,000 btu/hr input and you are burning 1 and 2/3 pounds per hour.
No insulation between the kitchen and the upstairs rooms. I should also mention a have the furnace helping to heat the rest of the home. This isn't working alone. The stairway is through the dining room and around the corner. Just a hard wood floor and the 7/16" sheeting on the ceiling of the kitchen.
Running 24 hours per day at that consumption figure there is no way that can result in 55,000 BTUs either input let alone net output and to top that off I'd like to know where that 55,000 figure came from to get that you have to burn 6.11 pounds per hour of one of the densest wood pellets one could scrounge up.
woodmakesheat
Feeling the Heat
The stove is rated at 4.5lb/hour max. input. Output is listed in EPA cert at 24,566 BTU/hr.
I'm not sure what made me type that. It's only 24,500 from what I've found.
Now that we have some reliable information I'd like to ask what kind of furnace is that one that is assisting in the heating?
ETA: Nosey ain't I.
ETA: Nosey ain't I.
Last edited:
Which means there are sizable pipe pass thoroughs that can act as chimneys and cause the heated air to go up through the floors above and likely some cold air to come up from below.
If it had been hot air then down the "cold air" return and through the basement and into the furnace before coming back up into the rest of the house and even the stove room.
I've operated a steam system in two other houses I've owned and also both a gravity and forced hot air system.
If it had been hot air then down the "cold air" return and through the basement and into the furnace before coming back up into the rest of the house and even the stove room.
I've operated a steam system in two other houses I've owned and also both a gravity and forced hot air system.
Why don't you chat with woodmakesheat about the stove but from what I'm seeing you are getting about what the stove can produce in the way of heat.
He may have a few suggestions to squeeze more blood out of those pellets.
You might want to get involved with a detailed heat loss calculation for your house and location in order to determine the size of stove that would cover that heat loss.
The 10-CPM would cover my house most of the time, I opted for a bit more just in case.
He may have a few suggestions to squeeze more blood out of those pellets.
You might want to get involved with a detailed heat loss calculation for your house and location in order to determine the size of stove that would cover that heat loss.
The 10-CPM would cover my house most of the time, I opted for a bit more just in case.
Aside from all the drafts, leaks, cracks etc, how can I tell if my stove is working at a proficient level? That is what I really need to know. As long as it is working as it should, I can figure out the house stuff later. I can put doors on the pantry and laundry room or what ever else later. I'm just now at 187 degrees blowing out the stove front.
It is all in the flame its color and the activity of the pellets in the burn pot. Your flame looks decent and you need to talk to someone who knows how to tweak those settings that you didn't provide a reading for. They sometimes need to be changed, ESW wants you to talk to them first. They change the base fuel/air ratio the stove uses to control the fire.
The LFF is set at 1 and the LBA is 4. Again, there is nothing I can find in the manual or the video. What's ESW?
woodmakesheat
Feeling the Heat
ESW = England's Stove Works.
If you're burning on 9 of 9, you should be using over 2.5 bags per day ((4.5 * 24)/40 = 2.7.)
There was a time when I wanted to see what the stove could do so I cranked up the Fuel to 3 and Air to 6 and saw 260 - 270
air temps exiting the stove. Your "just under 2 bags/day" is equivalent to running at about 7-8. In fact, with short pellets that decided to burn hotter than other of the same brand, I've seen air temps as high as 245 on setting 8. So maybe you can up the fuel and air and see if it will burn the pellets you have at a higher rate.You may have pellets that don't burn hot or are longer than average and so increasing the fuel feed rate from 1 to say 2 or 3 will help to compensate. You need to increase the air some too if you do so, but not as much in my experience, so 5 or 6 should be a good starting point. How long are your pellets? I see variation from 190 on setting 9 to nearly 250 on setting 8 using the exact same brand of pellets.
Also would like to note that it was very cold for 2 days and I had trouble keeping my house higher than the mid 60's last night, though today it warmed up to 32 and the indoor temp jumped 3 degrees in a couple of hours. There's many factors that come into play when you're not heating with a device that has excess capacity. My oil furnace is rated at 100,000 BTU/hr for instance, 4X what my pellet stove it rated to, yet even that has trouble keeping up on nights where it gets below zero. Many factors are involved including outside air temperature, insulation, leakage, wind, cleanliness of heat exchangers, solar gain (or lack thereof for a period of time which drains heat from house's thermal mass), fuel quality, air quality, humidity levels, other sources of heat etc.
Most factors being as they are (you can't change them easily), it seems like tweaking for the pellets you have or trying another brand are a good place to start. Oh, and to change the settings for fuel or air, press the button for that setting, then press both up or both down arrows to adjust it up or down.
I've noticed the temperature shift and I'm running the same pellets I've had the entire time. I just started the new brand. I'm going to see where it's at in an hour. Thanks everyone for the input.
woodmakesheat
Feeling the Heat
Just keep an eye on the stove for things like pellets piling up in the burn pot or very tall yellow flame - you may get good heat from such a flame, but you want a controlled lively bright burn with pellets never completely covering the stirrer shaft.
- Status
Similar threads
