I wonder if you crack the ash door prior to reloading if it will A) bring the stove back up to temperature which is important during a re-fuel, and B) flush all the smoke out of the chamber, making it impossible to have a backdraft.Chimney does extend past the roof line, not exactly sure how much, but it does. To prevent any smoke pulling via the pellet stove flue, which is almost the San height, I am installing a 18” extension. This will also help distance further from the roof line.
Since installing the SS liner, I have noticed more “puffs” from the stove. Both from the Ash clean out door and when opening the load door.
Example... yesterday around 5:30 I had split 2 splits down to 2”x2” and added to the center of the fire box. Kept the load door opened until my surface temp gauge read 500 and the fire was well underway. At 6:15 I had to bring my some to hockey and noticed nothing but clouds of smoke in the yard and down the road. When back into the house and very very slowly opened the load door. BOOM! The stove was so locked with smoke, the second I introduced air, instant backdraft. (Basement Door was opened and draft blower was running). After a day with the windows opened, the house was back to smelling like a campfire.
After 5 mins with the load door opened ~¼”, the surface temp read 500 and the fire was back to running normal.
Would be nice to have a draft setting for when loading. Basically Monitor the stove surface temperature once it reaches 500 close the draft slider back to 3/8 open.
Had been opening the ash door as it was a great way to get the stove upto temp quick. However started experiencing backdrafts “puffs” when reloading. Actually after lining the flue, I have had more "puffs" then before.I wonder if you crack the ash door prior to reloading
I know I have a difficult time getting a proper draft established when the outside temp is over 40. Takes forever to get the draft pulling hard enough and it dumps smoke out the front door something awful.Had been opening the ash door as it was a great way to get the stove upto temp quick. However started experiencing backdrafts “puffs” when reloading. Actually after lining the flue, I have had more "puffs" then before.
When the stove does backdraft “puff”, it's like a gun firing. Think outside temps play a large part into the backdrafts.
Weather is to nice today to fire up the stove.
Wow. That's not right, not by a long shot. What has FC said about it? Have you reached out to them?With the temps falling to 32 last night, I decided to run the stove. Started the fire around 7pm and refilled for the night at 11:15 with adding 4 medium size splits. To make sure the fire was going good, I left the clean out door opened till about 11:32, stove front surface temp reading 600 degrees. By 11:45 the stove nosedived to 400 degrees.
At 12:15, 1 hour after initial reloading, the following happened. (Thermostat was set to 78, wanted draft blower to run).
Should I assume 2 things went wrong? To much fuel added and stove was not hot enough?
Sounds like he has an excess of draft; I wouldn't be concerned about that.I'm with Bren, you're causing an abundance of smoke running with the door open like that. The chimney is the engine of the system, just let the design of the furnace work like it should. You should be able to load on coals and shut the door and turn on the draft blower. Within 10 minutes or less that load should be burning well. If not, I would question the quality of the wood (seasoned or not). That's if your draft is where it needs to be.
Man, I'd question them on that...seems awful hot...my Tundra runs perfectly at 350*...different furnace and door I know, but still, we are talking external temps, internal will be WAAAAAAAY higher...just sounds a little overfire-ish to me...FC has advised that we need to be hitting 600F+ on the front of the door
I wonder if its possible they mean peak burn temp after you reload (door closed, blower running) Still seems high for an external temp...but would make more sense to me than getting it that hot with the door open...FC has advised that we need to be hitting 600F+ on the front of the door
Should be measured when you're burning. With door closed of course. Blower (the HVAC one) should not impact draft - seems to me if it does there are other things going on. If you have draft that varies that much, sounds like you need a barometric damper. (I didn't read the whole thread, but assuming you don't have one?). Its purpose is to help maintain a steady draft, and limit over drafts. Example, from wind gusts. Did you post a pic of your manometer setup?Prior to the SS liner install, my draft would keep around 0.08. Now it bounces between 0.02 - 1.04, depending on if the door is opened, draft blower, blower, flue temp.
So.... when exactly should I measure the draft? Lots of videos on where to test and how to read, but none address when to actually measure.
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Correct, I don't have one installedassuming you don't have one?
AttachedDid you post a pic of your manometer setup?
I use a Foscam R2 to monitor various temps as well as furnace remotely while I'm at work. It's a bit cheaper.
They need to fly a rep out to address your situation. I’d be furious.Loaded at 7:20am "flashback" at 9:11 and 9:24