Well, seems like you have a wildly varying draft. So knowing what it is when this happens might shed light. This might be happening at a lull.Wish I did.. need to mount the manometer so I can capture the readings. Measurement I took 15mins after, no draft blower, was 0.08 wc
Why do you ask?
I hate that too!House now smells like smoke... I hate!
It didn't come with install directions? http://www.fieldcontrols.com/filebin/pdfs/Instruction_Manuals/01575700_TypeRC_Rev_B_04-15.pdf
oil burnerI spy a silver BD damper behind your stove pipe........?
Not the link you posted... thanks!It didn't come with install directions
I think Jr Hawk is saying that the way the baro damper is mounted for the oil burner is the same idea to mount the baro damper for the wood furnace.oil burner
The draft reading actually goes from "suction" to "pressure" for a split second.3 flashbacks in a row. Stove had hit the 700+ degree mark, draft blower turned off, stove cooled down to ~600 degrees, draft blower kicks back in resulting to the following 3 flashbacks. This time I was able to capture the draft measurements. You will notice that exactly the point of the flashback, the reading goes to 0.
This is what the fire box looked like.
View attachment 223941
I'll say it a third time within this thread. Bigger splits when loading full. Get one layer at a time burning and charred good before adding another. If the inducer shuts down and the firebox goes black and smokey turn the heat up. I have had my house at 76 and warmer to get it to a point that the puffing stops. You need a flame to continue to burn in this furnace. Doing this I have not had a puff from this furnace for over a month.I don't know what the fix should be, but it seems that the fire is shutting down too fast, when it is really rolling the off gassing.
Ever kill the engine when going downhill on something that has a manual choke, then stab the choke? Instant backfire. From the dump of fresh fuel hitting the hot combustion chamber & exhaust, and igniting even without spark. Likely happens more in the exhaust section or manifold.
Did you ever get a draft spec from them? Looks a bit high on the manometer just before the poof - so high draft might be pulling unburnt gasses to a hot spot where they poof when not supposed to, as they should otherwise have already been burned. But didn't get burned due to an intake being overly restricted. There might be multiple things going on here, and I don't think the bubble gum rivet thing is helping any. This could be getting into design deficiency territory.
The draft blower has a slide cover located on the side of the motor that is factory preset, with an opening of approximately 3/8”. The cover should be fully closed only when there is a power failure and electricity is lost.
In order to create the most effective draft, the chimney size should not exceed 12 inches, with a maximum .08 water column inches of draft. The flue draft can be measured with the use of a draft gage or manometer. If there is more than .08 water column inches of draft, it can be adjusted with the installation of a flue damper
I have noticed that the stove will fire great for the first 2+ hours, then nosedive where the firebox goes black and smokey. This happens after I have gone to bed. There is 2 ways I have been able to track night flashbacks... 1) The camp fire smell in the air 2) Reviewing the night video feedIf the inducer shuts down and the firebox goes black and smokey turn the heat up.
Believe mine slide is the same now for an opening.I have my slide, only one rivet in it, taped under 3/8".
I would say most certainly not!I wonder if this model stove had enough testing in different environments before going to market.
That is the key...If the draft blower never shut off, there would be no issue. Once it shuts off, the large fire it has created starves for air...chokes itself out...then after a bit of time it gets enough air to re-ignite and WOOOF!The draft blower did run the whole time