I suggest, anyone looking to purchase a stove, that they do much research, like most if not all of those here have done. Ask questions like the OP has here. Read reviews of real set ups, experiences, burning habits/techniques, and determine what is their preference of wood burner they want, and what the main factors are in the wood burner they want before they purchase. Not just go buy whatever is the latest trend, or what the has the claimed "highest output (peak or not), or whoever claims the highest efficiency whether 77% or 81%(again determined by burning specific test wood in a controlled lab environment) which by the way is not typical of hardwoods or any wood someone bucks, splits and dries on their own site, etc. etc. etc. Example: Your WPH claims as folows: $3,990.00 on sale for $3,590.00 for a whopping $400.00 "savings". Advertised Firebox size: 2.8 Cu.ft. Claimed max heat output: Max Heat Output: 80,000 BTUs /hr. (from their website, highly doubtful). Claimed Heat Output (EPA Test Method): 12,538 - 73,171 BTU's/hr (um okay sure if they say so). EPA Efficiency: 81% EPA Emission Rating: 1.33 gms/hr Heat up to 2200 square feet- easily (easily in which set up & circumstance)? Wide open floor plan? Rancher with heat at one end? VS. Drolet Escape1800 $1,199.00 MSRP as listed on site Advertised Firebox size: 2.4Cu. ft. Claimed max heat output: 75,000 BTU/h (highly doubtful) Claimed Heat Output 14,800 BTU/h to 28,600 BTU/h Average overall efficiency (EPA cribs / Douglas fir) N.A. Average overall efficiency (dry cordwood) 69 % at low output 74 % at high output. (Again, who cares). Optimum efficiency 77 % more numbers thrown on a spec sheet. Average particulate emissions rate1.54 g/h Recommended heating area (sq.ft.) 500 - 2,100 VS. Osburn 2400 $2,699.00, have to call for sale price Advertised Firebox size: 3.4 Cu. Ft. Claimed max heat output: Max Heat Output: 100,000 BTUs (from their website, again highly doubtful, but they are not stating per hour like Woodstock is). Claimed Heat Output: 13,300 BTU/h - 44,100 BTU/h Optimum efficiency for the OB02401 equals 78 %( they added 1% over the typical EPA rating for this class of 77%, who cares. Average particulate emissions rate 3.9 g/h Recommended heating area of 1,000 - 2,700 square feet. And to confuse consumers even more, they throw the standard notes in there: 1) This appliance is officially tested and certified by an independent agency. (2) Values are as measured per test method, except for the recommended heating area, firebox volume, maximum burn time and maximum heat output. Recommended heating area and maximum burn time may vary subject to location in home, chimney draft,heat loss factors, climate, fuel type and other variables. The recommended heated area for a given appliance is defined by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature in the designated area in case of a power failure. (3) The maximum heat output (dry cordwood) is based on a loading density varying between 15 lb/ft³ and 20 lb/ft³. Other performances are based on a fuel load prescribed by the standard. The specified loading density varies between 7 lb/ft³ and 12 lb/ft³. The moisture content is between 19% and 25%. (4) As measured per CSA B415.1-10 stack loss method. (5) Higher Heating Value of the fuel. (6) Lower Heating Value of the fuel. (7) Performances based on a fuel load prescribed by the standard at 7 lb/ft³ and with a moisture content between 19% and 25%. (8) Optimum overall efficiency at a specific burn rate (LHV). (9) Carbon monoxyde. Insert come with blowers, does the WPH? Inserts are made to fit the space, your Progress leaves a whole 1" to spare height wise, of course you truly won't know till you're trying to slide that 700lb rock back into place. What do you do when a stone cracks, time to replace gaskets, or worse? Pull that 700lbs out... yay fun. Oh, how will he load it from one side or the other since it is a side loading stove? Guess he is back to arguing with the wife to plop that thing in front of the fireplace, and run piping up the face of fireplace to the new hole he has to put through the the new thimble he has to install. But hey, after that entire fiasco, he can now use the free 3 burner cook top, that is a plus. Insert eye roll here----> So, you were saying "In what world is less heat and less efficiency better? He lives in a cold house, more heat is better" So in all those numbers you so highly regard, where is the added noteworthy extra heat output from the freestander? Again, you're now informed. Any other questions, I refer you to google, which In should have done in the first place. I did this for the original poster, so he can see I am not just throwing my opinion at him, to talk him into something he nor his wife wants. And saving him a huge extra cost and headache. JMBorris, get the largest firebox size insert you can fit in that hole, and that is the best you can do, which will be much warmth. Aside from plopping something in front of the fireplace and adding in the extra cost and effort than you will already have to put out. As I said, read all advise, take some into consideration, and take much with a grain of salt. This is for you and your wife to be happy, not someone else telling you what you should or should not get & do. Lastly, NEVER, EVER base your decision on advertised max/ normal heat outputs & advertised square footage advertised. Go by fire box size(and check actual usable), and what suites your wants & needs. The numbers posted on manufacturer sites are misleading, as are the EPA output lab result numbers. You would get better insight from actual owners here and a few other sites.